Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTNI Softail Deluxe
When i rev up engine on an gear it will start slipping
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, if you are planning to do this type of procedure you are going to need tools. The first and best tool you will ever buy is a service manual. It will more than pay for it's self when you replace your clutch. Good luck
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Either the stator plate, or coil is not getting power. First thing I would check would be power from the coil with an ohmmeter.
Posted on May 28, 2009
Down and dirty way - take it to the dealer and have them install a new tire....
The hard way: place bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel by removing the axle nut and drifting the axle out of the wheel. Derail the belt/chain and drop the wheel out of the brake caliper. Remove valve stem to deflate the tire. Get a set of tire spoons and a 12 pack of COLD brew cause working with tire spoons is no FUN! Pry the bead loose with one spoon and the work your way around the wheel prying the tire beed to the outside of the wheel. Repeat this process for the back side of the tire (in the same direction as the first side so the tire will come off the wheel. Reverse and repeat to install new tire.
By now you will be loading your wheel into the truck and heading to the HD shop. It just really isn't worth the hastle to save the $25 or so to have this job done.
Align wheel with new tire on it with the brake caliper so that you have one shoe on each side of the rotor (you may have to actually remove the caliper if your pads are thick. Install your belt drive/chain drive and then lift the wheel to insert the axle through the swing arm, the chain tensioner and wheel. Reverse
on the other side. Place axle nut on axle and torque to about 80lbs.
Good to go.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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