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Always start with the easy (read cheap) stuff first. Make sure that the clutch is fully disengaging when in gear and engine running. If bike 'clunks' and lurches forward as soon as you shift into any gear, it may simply be that your clutch needs to be bled and/or adjusted so that you are fully engaging/disengaging the gear. More likely, however, the shift lever was subjected to a heavy foot resulting in the shift fork being bent. This prevents full engagement of the gear resulting in it popping out under load. Unfortunately, this repair requires a teardown. Continued operation with the tranny popping out of gear will round off the shift dogs and create an even more very expensive repair.
When you are in top gear driving a Honda, you can lift up the shifter pedal with your foot with out pulling in the clutch. The pedal is actually not engaging or doing any thing and will give no resistance. If you are not sure if you are an in top gear You just lift up on the pedal with out engaging the clutch If it moves up freely you know you are in top gear. If you are driving and apply light upward pressure on the pedal and there is resistance , you have another gear to go.
The shift rail fork ends are likely worn. There are fork contact/wear pads that ride in the gear shift sliding collars, and over time, or from low gearbox oil levels/insufficient lubrication, these pads wear, allowing "slop" and preventing the gears from engaging fully. I'd check the brngs, synchro rings and the dog clutch teeth, too. If you see metal/brass or aluminum shavings in the case drain plug, oil or on the bottom of the gearcase...that isn't a good sign. This sounds like a trans issue, not a clutch issue.
This behavior is the symptom that your clutch plates are getting worn out. Since power is transmitted from the cam shaft to the front sprocket (smaller dia) is better at lower gears but once the rpm increases the clutch plates do not catch up with the cams rotation, hence slipping at higher gears & in between 4th & 5th gears the pulling power of the engine seems to go to neutral before engaging again. Check your clutch plates as well as the sprocket-chain- rear sprocket for wearing out of the gear teeth & replace if required. You will get back full power & acceleration as when the bike was new.............sodeep
You have a bent shift fork not engaging the slider gear fully into 5th gear. The engine will need to come out of the bike. Remove the top end, the flywheel and electrics, the clutch, shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to get to the crankshaft, gears and shift forks.
You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter, torque wrench and factory service manual, plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it". I normally tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project and they have a knowing eye working on the engine. Please rate this solution. Thanks
I doubt that any gears are stripped. Believe me you would have known it when it happened at 40mph which is where you would have to be in 5th gear. This is a bent shift fork. The actual gear is fine. The slider gear is not moving far enough to engage with 5th gear. The YZ does tend to have this problem in 5th and 1st. "Dirt rider Magazine " did a story on it. Best to let the shop do the repair as the entire motor gets torn down into about 100 parts.
Some shifting problems can be fixed by adjusting the shifter pawl, but this has to be done with the trany fully engaged in 3rd....The only other thing u can do is ajust the shifter linkage and the clutch. If that doesnt do it - ya gotta open up the trany itself and look for badly worn parts or damage to the shifter fork, gears or drum