Question about 2008 kawasaki Eliminator 125

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2008 kawasaki Eliminator 125 wont start

It turns over but wont start.. and i dont know what the lead is that comes of the battery with a lead on it

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  • Richard Lowe Nov 03, 2012

    sorry the lead has a fuse on it

  • Richard Lowe Nov 05, 2012

    ok it wont start i don't know why. turns over when turning the key but wont run. also there is a lead from battery with a fuse on it not connected to anything

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a 2001 kawasaki 125 eliminator shuts off

If it dies when put into gear then its the side-stand switch (stand is down or switch not working)
If it dies when the clutch lever is released then either it was released too quickly with not enough revs, the engine doesnt have enough power to pull away or possibly the clutch switch is working in reverse

Good Luck
Hope this helps.
(If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

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SOURCE: Every how many should I change the oil for my 2007

Depends on how often you ride it. If you are just a weekend cruiser I would change it every winter or spring, if you are a road warrior I would change it once every 5000.

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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1 Answer

2001 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 how do you remove the rotor?


Hi, Cheryl for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
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1 Answer

How do I fix no compression on 2006 Kawasaki eliminator 125


No or low compression can only be from either valve failure in a 4 stroke engine, and/or serious internal engine failure. Cracked pistons, worn out rings etc. The engine will have to come apart and rebuilt

Sep 25, 2014 | 2006 kawasaki Eliminator 125

1 Answer

2007 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 will not start


Hi, Eddie nice novella and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
ELIMINATOR 125 wont start
What Do Check When My Motorcycle Won Start Honda Shadow Forums Shadow... very comprehensive must read
Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
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Jun 06, 2017 | 2007 kawasaki Eliminator 125

1 Answer

2005 Kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator is not charging


Hi, Leedhurn before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
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Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
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Aug 27, 2017 | 2005 kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator

1 Answer

How to or what tool I use to drain a Kawasaki Eliminator 125 CC carburetor?


there should be a small screw at the base of the carb bowl. under or to the side of the screw will be a nipple or hose, this is your drain hole. the screw may be a smal allen head or flat head bolt.

Mar 21, 2010 | 2008 kawasaki Eliminator 125

1 Answer

Gas milage


I consistently get about 75mpg on my 2001 model over the past 7 years. Since the 124 hasn't changed much since 2001, the 2008/2009 models should get about the same.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 kawasaki Eliminator 125

1 Answer

Oil


I used Castrol 10w 40 , I think its whats recommended in the owners manual.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2008 kawasaki Eliminator 125

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