Question about BMW R 1200 GS Motorcycles

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Rattle, fast ticking noise at +/- 3800 rpm when decelerating

When pulling up in 2nd or 3th to 4000 rpm and then trying to keep the bike at that rpm (or slightly lowering it), it mostly starts to have a fast tick/rattle. This most of the time for a short period. It is a brand new GS1200 and it behaved like this from the first km. It has now 11000 km and noise is still there. I have driven two other new GS1200 from the shop on which I could not reproduce this behavior. I mentioned it and they said some GS1200 do that, but I should not worry about it. It is the engine they said. Because the engine runs well, my only worry is : is this a sign of something more serious that lies ahead ? (when the warranty is over)

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Hi, Wim could be a loose valve seat or valve clearance issue keep all documentation about this tick so when your bike is out of warranty and the noise becomes a real problem they won't have a leg to stand on for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Bmw r1200c montauk service manual
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Posted on Dec 24, 2015


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ZRX1100 P reg (1990?) Runs

Hi ...... Does noise 'go-away' if you pull in the clutch ? Could be a few things, cam chain needs adjustment or replacement (35,000 miles-ish), rotor on some Kawasakis made up of steel centre,alloy middle & steel outer. Parts can become loose, short term solution is to centre tap/spot sections but ultimately replace rotor. Have you ever had the left casing off ? Is there a gasket fitted or a thinner pattern type fitted ? When was the last time valve clearences checked/changed ? Did they change shims on that side ?
Let us know how you get on.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have a suzuki drz 125l 2004 model that currently

okay theres a couple possable things that can cause this .... carbon on the valves, ran hard,not frequent oil changes, low on oil, cheap oil, spark plugg is too long , too much oil somtimes causes this,crank case breather plugged,it all depends on the way it was treated in the past or the present
i change my oil about every 15-20 hours keeps debre down and less friction on engine,remember this is not water cooled! so use the best 10-40 oil or atleast good known oil and run some seafoam through the gas,it will take that carbon off . and if you dont have a inline fuel filter u should get one they really save carbs and there only $3.00 at oreily! hope this helps <walker>

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: quad bike keeps cutting out

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There may be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: Suzuki GSF400 Bandit problems with tick over.

as you have replaced carbs you will need to retune for fuel intake also check its getting enough air ie.. air filter has been changed or is clogged

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Loud tick noise in crankcase.

Thanks for the background info. With all the work that has been done and the good readings I can suggest a few possibilities.

  1. A broken gear tooth, (highly likely if the "tick" is not present in all gears).
  2. Broken gear tooth on the clutch hub, (highly likely if the "tick" is present in all gears).
  3. Wrong heat range on the spark plug causing detonation.
Set the air screw and pilot screw back to factory settings > turn each inward until LIGHTLY seated. Now open each of them one and one-half turns. The stock jetting should be okay.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

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