Question about 2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

How do I remove the heat shield on the rear pipe of a 2007 V star 1100 the small shield has come loose and is hanging and the large shield I am trying not to bend

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Yamaha Master
  • 43,129 Answers
Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: battery wont start bike, what do i do ? on 2007 1100 v-star class

are you shure the start engine works? see if all cabels are conected

sorry for bad english

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

DickCanFixIt
  • 948 Answers

SOURCE: how do you adjust the height of the front suspension on a 2007 1100 v star? mine bottoms out when stopping or bumpy roads.

It's not adjustable. If you need more damping you can change the fork oil to a heavier weight. Put 15w instead of 10w for example. You could also put stiffer springs inside your forks. Rather large job. You could also put a spacer either on top or under the springs you have to get the effect of stiffer springs without actually changing it. Also a large job, but less expensive than new springs. Finally, check your fork seals. If the seals are bad you should see oil leaking from them and that would cause loss of damping.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: changing oil filter on an '08 Yamaha v star 1100 motorcycle

yes you do, when i did mine i changed it to a remote filter, much easier

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: V-Star 1100 wih HK Pipes

Did you change the pipes without changing the carb jets

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

ckoira57
  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: how do you remove the rear tire on a yamaha 1100 v

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Coments.htm

This site has some informative (if inordinately long) videos on tyre changing...and just about anything else. Some good - some not so! Tyre change techniques here are par for the average Joe. Your best allie is good tyre irons and a logical sense, Cheers!

Posted on May 15, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What will cause bluing on front exhaust pipe on 2003 yamaha v-star 1100


Ronald, All stock single wall pipes will blue some time or another. A big cause of Bluing is a badly tuned bike, burning rich or lean putting more heat into pipe.
There are polishes available to remove the Bluing, and some people on forums, they suggest to remove and with high heat paint, put several coats inside of chrome pipes.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
Exhaust Bluing Twin Forum Harley Davidson Forums
Exhaust Care
How to Fix Bluing on Motorcycle Exhausts DoItYourself com

May 06, 2016 | 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

'07 V-Star leaking oil at the rear cylinder exhaust pipe seam


i just average joe, but i vote broken ring...sorry pal.. i recently repaired a bike...same thing was happening...in my case, the thing just had too much oil in it , so much so that it was backing into carb...jus a thought

Dec 03, 2013 | 2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

1 Answer

Shift cable replacement


Most front wheel drive cars nowadays use a series of cables to actuate the transmission gear changes. Because the transmission in front wheel drive cars is mounted transversely rather than longitudinally, it is difficult to come up with an actual mechanical linkage from the gearshift lever to the transmission. Having a cable operated system allows much more flexibility. NOTE: this arraignment is also used in some mid-engine cars, such as the Porsche Boxster.

This system typically works very well, although there is a weak spot in the design. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the cable. In our case, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could render the gearshift useless. Replacing the cables is well within the reach of the do-it-yourselfer, however you do need to gain access to the underside of the car.

Begin by removing the air filter assembly (See our article on installing a performance intake system for more info). Underneath the lower airbox are the attachment points for the shift cables on the transmission (See Figure 2). Pry off the ball ends of the transmission with a screwdriver. If your cable ends are still good, I would recommend using a forked tool to apply equal pressure to each side of the rubber joint (See Figure 3). Once the ends are disconnected, squeeze the metal clips holding the cable ends into the black plastic holder and pry each cable end out (See Figure 4).

Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Refer to our article on jacking up your car for more info. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. We will need to access the shifter housing which sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the tunnel (See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8). There are a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car (See Figure 9). Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don't need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it (See Figure 10).

The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 10mm bolts that secure the mounts to the bracket. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts (See Figures 11, 12 and 13).

Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing (See Figure 14). Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands (See Figure 15).

Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it (See Figure 16). You will now be able to see the two tabs holding the shift cable to the body directly above the catalytic converter. Pry the two rubber grommets holding the cables out of the tabs (See Figure 17).

Follow the cables back to the shifter housing. Now pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (See Figure 18). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off and pull the cables out of the shift housing and free of the car (See Figure 19 and Figure 20 ). Be sure to remove the small o-rings on the end of the old cables, and slide them onto the new cables.

Now feed the new shift cables through the holes in the shifter housing, (taking care that the small o-rings around the cable retainers seat properly) Refit the cable retainer clips and pop the cable ends onto the new shift lever ball joints and re-fit the shift housing cover. work the other end of the cables up under the subframe to the plastic retainer on the transmission. Clearance will be tight in this area. Now, mount the plastic cable ends into the slots on the side of the retainer until they lock into position (See Figure 21). Now route the rubber grommets on the new cables into the tabs on the body above the catalytic converter. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket.

From the top of the car, inside the engine compartment, pop the new cable ends onto the ball joints on the transmission. Now get in the car and work the gearshift, checking that each throw operates smoothly. pic01.jpg
Figure 1Shown here are a set of new shift cables for the MINI Cooper S. Over time, the rubber that surrounds the spherical ends of the cable can wear or even tear loose, rendering the shifter inoperable.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic02.jpg
Figure 2Remove the air filter assembly to access the upper shift cable connection to the transmission.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic03.jpg
Figure 3Use two screwdrivers to pry the spherical ball joints off the connection points at the linkage. BMW specifies the use of a two armed tool to apply equal pressure to either side of the ball joint. With care, the screwdriver method will work. You can also use a an open end wrench to pry the ball joint off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic04.jpg
Figure 4Once the cable ends are removed, squeeze the metal clips that hold each cable into the plastic retainer and pry them out (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic05.jpg
Figure 5Jack the car up, place it on jack stands and remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the center tunnel. Remove the nuts shown here on the driver's front side (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic06.jpg
Figure 6Shown here are the body nuts to be removed on the passenger front side. (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic07.jpg
Figure 7Moving down the center of the car, remove the body nuts in the middle (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic08.jpg
Figure 8Keep moving towards the rear of the car and remove the body nuts towards the rear of the shield.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic09.jpg
Figure 9Don't forget to remove the small 8mm screw securing the front of the heat shield right above the catalytic converter.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic10.jpg
Figure 10Remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield (green arrow).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic11.jpg
Figure 11Remove the six 10mm bolts holding the exhaust mount bracket to the body (green arrows) as well as the two 10mm bolts securing the exhaust mounts to the bracket (yellow arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic12.jpg
Figure 12Once you rotate the bracket down, you can see how the exhaust mounts hook inside at one end. (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic13.jpg
Figure 13Rotate the bracket down further and move the exhaust mounts to release them from them. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic14.jpg
Figure 14Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic15.jpg
Figure 15Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic16.jpg
Figure 16Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic17.jpg
Figure 17Up above the heat shield are the two tabs that hold the shift cables in place (green arrows). Pry out the cables to free them from the center tunnel.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic18.jpg
Figure 18Now, pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (yellow arrow). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. I grabbed the cable end with some channel locks and gave it a good tug downward (green arrow). Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off (fuchsia arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic19.jpg
Figure 19Once loose, pull the shift cable retaining clips down and off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic20.jpg
Figure 20Slide the shift cables back and out of the shift housing. Don't forget to remove the small seals on the end of each cable and fit them to the new cables.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic21.jpg
Figure 21Feed the new cable ends up through the engine compartment into the black plastic retainer and pop them both into place (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image

Oct 29, 2013 | TRANSMISSION Mini Cooper 2002 02 2003 03...

1 Answer

Rattle in rear undercarriage of 2007 dodge caravan


Put a couple of long hose clamps together & put
around exhaust converter heat shield

Other underbody heat shields that rust away,
you remove the bolts & add a large washer

Sep 16, 2012 | 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT Minivan

1 Answer

My car is making a cladering noice and im not sure what it could be the oil is good was thinkin it may be the exhaust


On a car that old often the heat shield has come loose. When the exhaust is not hot look underneath the car and see if there is some loose aluminum looking sheet looking stuff hanging above the exhaust pipe and converter. If so you can remove it and replace it, tighten it back in with small sheet metal screws or just toss it which is what I did on 4 or 5 Saturns. A shop most likely will not remove it for you as it may create a hazard. It tears out quite easily. If the heat shield is not the culprit, then take a look at the rear muffler mount, another frequent Saturn noise maker. When this goes the muffler rattles and it can cause the pipe further back in the system to rattle.

Jun 01, 2010 | 1996 Saturn SL

1 Answer

How do you remove the rear rotors from a 2007 Dodge Minivan?


Disc only!!! Remove rear tire. Remove 2 calipar bolts. Hang calipar. Don't leave hang loose. Slide rotor off. If stuck you must adjust the emer. brake, Going around the back side of the backing plate on the bottom. Remove the rubber boot. Using a brake tool or screwdriver adjust the star wheel adjuster to remove the rotor.

Oct 08, 2009 | 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT Minivan

1 Answer

Clicking, squeaking noise and rough-idle when parked in drive


It almost sounds like you have a heat shield that is loose on your exhaust system. Let it cool, and try to reach under, lightly bumping the exhaust pipes with your hand. If you hear any rattle noises, or squeeks then you have a loose shield. you can ither remove the shield, or try to use a large clamp to go around it and tighten it up.

Dec 14, 2008 | 2007 Scion xA

Not finding what you are looking for?
2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic Logo

Related Topics:

156 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Yamaha Experts

dhnguyen

Level 2 Expert

281 Answers

Steve Sweetleaf
Steve Sweetleaf

Level 3 Expert

1144 Answers

Tony

Level 3 Expert

2600 Answers

Are you a Yamaha Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...