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The 1991 Honda CBR 1000F uses an in-line four cylinder, four-stroke engine that produces 36.5 cubic-inches of displacement. The engine uses a dual overhead camshaft system and has four valves per cylinder. The maximum power of the CBR 1000F is 93 horsepower at 11,000 rpm and the max torque is 45 ft-lb at 8,500 rpm. The motorcycle's compression ratio is11.3:1 while the bore by stroke ratio is 2.5 by 1.9 inches. The engine is liquid cooled. The transmission is a six speed and is chain driven. The top speed of the CBR 600F is 141 mph. Dimensions and Features
The overall weight of the 1990 Honda CBR 600F is 460 pounds. The total fuel capacity is 4.36 gallons. The seat height is 32 inches, and the wheelbase is 55 inches. The front tire dimensions are 110/80-17 and the rear tire dimensions are 130/80-17. The front brakes are dual 276mm piston caliper disc brakes while the rear brake is a single 220mm pistol caliper disc brake. The suspension system uses a mono-shock swing arm design. The power to weight ratio is .44 hp/kg. This bike can go 0 to 60 mph in 3.8 seconds. Appearance and Design
The 1990 Honda CBR 600F features a compact design. Close side mirrors flank a compact instrument panel and tight handlebars. This motorcycle sports a partial fairing that is designed for better aerodynamics. To reduce wind resistance, the legs and feet are fully positioned behind the motorcycle body. Like most sport bikes, when riding at fast speeds, the rider is intended to lie across the fuel tank to reduce drag. No chrome is visible on the bike, as the motorcycle body fully covers the chassis. The display panel features three gauges: a speedometer with built in odometer, a tachometer and a fuel gauge. The 1990 Honda CBR 600F is produced in various combination colors, including white, blue and red or black, purple and orange.
Torque wrench is not needed, just tightne the bolts securely and fold over the locking tabs(if equipped) if it does not have locking tabs a little bit of BLUE thread locker is a good idea. Be sure to use blue( removeable) and not red ( almost not removeable without heat) so you can get the sprocket off next time.
I'd be interested in knowing how the cam chest cover cam off changing a gear box gasket but.
In order to get the cams back in and to insure their proper timing, I'd put the rocker arms out. I'd pull them all out but you're free to do whatever you wish. Remove the top and middle rocker cover on the front clinder. Remove the large bolt that hold the lower plate and the rocker arm for the front cylinder in. Tap the rocker arm shaft out of the rocker arm and remove the rocker arm. You can then get your cam into position. Now, to get rocker shaft back in, rotate the engine until the front exhaust cam has the valve in it's closed position. Reinstall the rocker arm and shaft and torque the bolt to 25 foot pounds. Reassemble the upper and middle rocker box covers.
To replace the head gasket disconnect the battery, remove the tank, remove the rocker cover. Manually turn the crank shaft until the engine is on top dead center compression stroke and the lines on the cam shaft gears are even with the top of the cylinder head. At that point evenly loosen the bolts that hold the cam shaft. Do one cam shaft at a time. Before you remove the second cam shaft tie a piece of wire to the cam chain then let the chain fall into the hole after removing the second cam. Loosen the carburator mounts and slide the carburators back so they are free of the engine. Now you can evenly loosen the head bolts and then remove the head. Check the head and cylinder for signs of warping or why the gasket needs to be changed. When you replace the head gasket make sure the gasket fits over the guide pins. Reassembly is essentially reverse of the disassembly. After you get the head torqued to specs, you will be glad you fought that wire attached to the cam chain when you start to install the cams. Make sure each cam goes back from where you took it from and the lines line up like they were before you took them out. Don't forget to install a new gasket on the rocker box.
remove the inspection cover in the right engine case turn the engine clock wise to no 1 tdc remove the cam chain tensioner line the marks on the inlet cam inlet then a line flush to the head then ex cam line flush to the head torque the bolts in a criss cross 12nm turn engine a full turn check that it all lines up then turn it over by hand to make sure it turns ok