Question about 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000

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Fzr1000 exup valve not working - 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000

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Can you give a little more details? It could be the actual valve, it could be the cables, it could be the servo, or it could be the wrong computer, or a defective computer.

Posted on Feb 07, 2013

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SOURCE: clutch feels fine on lever, was ok before i

When you put the sprocket cover back on, you've not engaged the clutch push rod correctly in the clutch slave cylinder. As the cover was tightened down it's pushed the slave cylinder piston too far back.
Remove the slave cylinder only (3 x 8mm head bolts) and check it operates properly, then ensure the push rod is correctly seated in the depression in the centre of the slave cylinder plate when you bolt it back up. FJ1200's have the same clutch and I had the same problem with my FJ...

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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SOURCE: my yamaha fzr1000 exup deltabox

Not sure what your problem is. But if you are loosing fuel out of the carbs. It may be that one of the carbs. float needles is stuck. Rap the carbs. with a hammer handle to try and reset the needle. Your only valve is on the fuel tank, your fuel on/off and reserve.

Posted on Apr 23, 2011

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HansPP
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SOURCE: looking for the specs on yamaha fzr1000 exup 1993

Sukkle julle nog? Het my instruksie nie gehelp nie?. Ek die opgetel, dalk help dit?

The way I understand it is that if #1 is at TDC and the T mark is lined up with the crankcase seam - there is no offset woodruff key (i.e. ignition advancer). If you think about, what's changing (when there is an offset key, that is), is the rotational position of the flywheel in relation to any given crankshaft position (i.e. TDC). So...

IF there is no offset key, rotate the crank so that #1 (and #4 by the way) are at TDC. The T mark should line up with the seam. From there, put the exhaust cam in (taking slack out of the cam chain from the exhaust side). When you go to set the cam into the chain do it in such a way that the cam timing mark is slightly ahead (toward front of motor) of the mark on the cam cap (EDIT - Since you're not actually installing the cap yet simply place it on top of the cam in such a way that there is an even gap between IT and the head surface. This way you can eyeball the position of the marks.). Then install the intake cam in a similar manner. That is, set the cam into the chain so the cam timing mark is slightly ahead of the cap mark. EDIT - When both cams are in place, install the cams caps (follow the torqueing procedure so you don't break them OR the cams!!!). After the caps are installed, grab a dowel and stick it in the cam chain tensioner hole and push the slack out of the chain. This SHOULD rotate the cams back (toward rear of motor) so the marks DO in fact line up.

CAUTION: Keep periodically checking to make sure the T mark is STILL lined up properly while putting the cams in. The crank DOES have a tendency to move around a bit while you're trying to jimmy the cams back in.

If the cams are out it's a bit easier since they are not part of the equation yet. It sounds like you're trying to figure out why the T mark isn't lining up when the cam timing marks ARE lined up. Go once step at a time - starting without the cams - as I described above and you shouldn't have a problem.

If you DO have an offset key, you MAY need to get a stock key to get the timing right. THEN, re-install the offset once the cams are back in. This point / tip was given to me by our resident GURU Reelrazor (who I'm sure will chime in at some point).

Posted on Apr 26, 2011

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