Question about 1972 Yamaha DT 360
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Feb 06, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Took a bit of scrounging bout the net, but I eventually found it!!
You can look at the parts diagram/part numbers for the old girl here
A rating and feedback is a great way to reward me for my efforts to find this for you. Cheers mate!!
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
SOURCE: Yamaha motorcycle stiff clutch
Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm. Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn.
Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with "special" additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.
A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Thanks!
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
JP cycles has them for $18 .Make sure you get the 5 3/4 inch seal beam. OEM yamaha are very hard to find and very expensive. google JP Cycles
Posted on Jun 29, 2010
each fork should take no more than 250 ml. Depending on desire for rebound hardness, it can be between 200-225 ml. Cheers
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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