Question about 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

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99 suzuki dr 200 se. fuel delivery problem does the line from the back of the carb that runs up under the seat need to have a check valve @ the end ? there`s vacume there and it likes to be open to start and then closed to run...

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: carb

No! It will not work on your bike! Save yourself some major grief by sending it to me! :thumbsup: :lol: But seriously folks... it will work great once whatever jetting changes that may be required are done. I'm thinking you'll have to do some throttle cable rigging and possibly adapters for the air boot and/or intake manifold. I have no experience with this conversion so I'm just assuming. Taking the carbs off for measurements would answer all those questions. Certainly a doable project and a mass improvement over the vacuum slide Mikuni!! I have every intention of doing a project like this once I'm back in my home state of Michigan. Just in my initial thought process I believe I would pick the 39mm carb over the 41mm carb. My primary reason would be to maintain and/or improve low end. There will already be a marked increase in top end even going to the smaller bore due to the superior flow design of the FCR carb. Good luck in your project.... I'm jealous! If you ever think of not doing the project for whatever reason I'd be interested in buying your carb

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 89 suzuki gsxr 750,it fires but will not

Clean the air filter and, if you have one, remove the water trap bowl on the fuel petcock and clean it. How good is the battery? Install new STOCK plugs. Bear in mind it may be time for carb kits. Other than your cleaning the carbs, the carb kits and balancing and synchronizing of the carbs are best left for the shop to do.

Check the exhaust pipes. If there is a restriction in the burned gases exiting the tailpipe then the bike will not run right, will loose power and even die if too much back pressure builds up. Disconnect the exhaust system and tick off the neighbors with a quick ride around the block without a muffler. If the engine still dies then exhaust is not likely to be the problem.

Check the compression on all cylinders. Depending on the compression, the bike may be ready for a valve job. If you pull the head for the valve job then you might as well consider re-boring the cylinders and install new pistons and rings. Bear in mind, doing a valve job and / or pistons is not recommended for the novice. The good part is that when the work is finished you will effectively have a new engine.

Please rate this solution as "FixYa" if I have answered your questions. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 272 Answers

SOURCE: FUEL RUNNING OUT OF EXHAUST

If fuel is escaping through your exhaust system to the point that it is dripping it means you have a float in your carb that isn;t closing and your engine is flooding. If your mechanically inclined do a carb job. They sell kits with all of the gaskets floats needles and jets that you need, it's a moderately difficult job with lots of small parts but if you google your carb you can probably find either a you tube or similar video step by step. Otherwise it's a job for your local shop.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki gs 750 getting a constant flow of fuel out of crank vent

The breather tube may warrant re-jetting but not re-syncing.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

slave2aslave
  • 302 Answers

SOURCE: Carb. issues/ vacum lines/fuel lines

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Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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Carburetor will not take in gas.


Sounds like float needle is sticking. I use an ear bud with some metal polish on and polish out the seat so needle can move freely. Make sure floats are set to parallel with base of carb just as needle shuts off fuel flow.

Apr 24, 2014 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

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Might be fuel leaking from overflow. Perhaps the float valve is stuck or damaged, allowing the float bowl to overfill. Slight chance tapping on side of carb may seat the valve. If not, it will probably have to either be set, or replaced. Could possibly have some "gunk" stuck in the valve seat from the cleaning. It only takes a tiny speck of debris to hold the valve open, causing flooding. Another possible cause is that during the cleaning, the tab that adjusts the level of the float valve got bumped, changing the level.

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DR 200 Dual Sport 07 model. Been sittin in garage for 2 yrs . FIRING BUT WONT START. Carb problem? where do I start ?


Replace all fluids including any hydraulic fluids.
Fit new spark plugs and strip down carburettor cleaning the jets especially the main jet. If corroded at all, replace the corroded jets.

Jan 05, 2011 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

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I need to know how to remove an air filter on a suzuki DR200 year 2000


Take off the side covers , unbolt the seat and remove( two bolts), the air box is under the seat. Flip the two tabs and lift the cover. Unscrew the center wing nut and lift the air filter out. Clean it, re oil it, and put back in, reverse order.

Sep 21, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

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Suzuki gn125 wont start. checked carb, cdi, coil. got compression and spark but it wont fire. timing been checked. i have ran out of ideas.


Check the valve adjustment. If a valve is standing open just a little, the compression will be too low to start the engine. Check fuel delivery by dribbling a little gasoline into the carb and try starting the bike. If it starts and runs for a second or two, you're not getting fuel into the cylinders. Check you carb again.

Oct 18, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki DR-Z 125

4 Answers

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Your float valve is sticking - the carb fills up, the fuel runs out through the carb into the engine.
Get a new float valve, until then - turn the fuel off at night.

Jul 01, 2009 | 1988 Suzuki DR 750 S

1 Answer

96 dr200 sittig up for 2 yrs. starving for fuel


Get some carb cleaner. Remove and clean the Nozzle, choke and main jet. Remove the pilot jet and air jet but count the number of turns to remove each one and put them back the same number of turns. Don't mess with the needle or clip or the pilot screw and plug at this time. Clean the carb thoroughly. Don't get carb cleaner on the diaphragm. If able, submerge the carb in cleaner overnight.
Let me know what happens by posting a comment.


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Jun 27, 2009 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

1 Answer

How to set valve gaps on a 1996 Suzuki DR650


Hi, with a cold engine, do the following.
Turn off ignition, fuel and remove seat and tank. Undo the central magneto inspection window and 17mm timing mark bolt on the LHS engine cover. Take out a sparkplug. Remove both valve rocker covers.
Turn motor counter-clockwise (using a socket on the nut at the end of the magneto spline) until the timing mark (T) lines up with the centre of the inspection bolt hole. Check all four rocker arms have a slight amount of free play, if not, rotate engine a further 360o. When all four valve rockers have some play, the piston is at top dead centre of compression stroke when all valves are closed. Your now ready to set the gaps.
Loosen lock nut with a ring spanner and adjust gap with a screwdriver, place feeler gauge under tappet between valve stem. Tighten down screw till moderate pressure is felt when sliding the feeler guage. Tighten lock nut ensuring screw does not tighten with it. Do all four valves and crank motor over a couple of revs by hand and check gaps again.
Gaps are as follows:
Inlet 0.08mm - 0.13mm
Exh. 0.17mm - 0.22mm
Goodluck, cheers!

Mar 03, 2009 | 1996 Suzuki DR 650 SE

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