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The normal method is once the cable is lubed and located at the engine and lever ends, the cable adjusters at both ends need to be adjusted to give the correct inner cable slack. I normally apply grease to the outer sheath metal crimps (this ensures they move in the adjusters). I then make sure the engine end adjuster has a small amount of clearance between it and the clutch rod. The final adjustments are then made using the cable adjusters at the lever and engine ends. You need to have about 10mm free play at the lever end. Check the manufacturers hand book for the exact dimension. Please make sure you route the cable the same as the old one, also when you pull in the lever it should close quite sharply when released. If it returns slowly or is stiff to operate then recheck cable route and try adding more lube to the inner cable.
dunno if that's backwards. Anyway: adjusted to just minimum sane play it barely engages with the lever fully in. If I would have to adjust the lever to any shorter position (for smaller hands) it would probably not engage fully. I understand there is an adjustment at the clutch arm down behind the gearbox. If I adjust there what will happen? I'm guessing I can wind that one in a bit then loosen the wire a bit. Will this solve the problem or will I be back at where I am now?,The arm only has limited travel, and there is a screw adjustment between the arm and the end of the clutch push-rod. Not sure what it is on the 1100s; it could be a hex headed bolt or an allen grub, but it's a bugger to get at because the swinging arm is so close. There's going to be some sort of locknut which will have to be slackened first.
Make small adjustments, screwing in towards the 'box, and trying the clutch lever each time. ,,,