Question about 1992 Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion S

1 Answer

Can't remove engine

One bolt in the rear part of the frame is keeping it in place. everything else is disconnected. how to take it out? help very much appreciated

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Hi ..... Have a look at the front & lower mountings, one side will remove completely, this is the side the engine MUST come out. Place a couple of rags on the lower frame tubes/cradle and with the help of at least one friend remove the last bolt, lift, swivel and remove. Not as easy as it sounds, you've not got a lot of room to 'play' with.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How to replace oil pan gasket


1994-96 VEHICLES
( see Figures 6 and 7 / click image for zoom )


zjlimited_1359.jpg

Fig. 6: Oil pan mounting bolt locations-1996 3.1L engine shown

zjlimited_1360.jpg

Fig. 7: Oil pan sealant application points-1996 3.1L engine shown

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
It may be necessary to remove the hood, with the help of an assistant, for access.
  1. Remove the engine mount strut and A/C compressor (if equipped) and the engine mount strut bracket assemblies.
  2. Remove the electric cooling fan assemblies. -28467 and J 26462, or equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil.
  4. Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft bolt/screw.
  6. Remove the oil level sensor.
  7. Remove the engine splash shield.
  8. Suitable support the drivetrain and front suspension with jack stands.
  9. Remove the transaxle mount side frame retaining nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  10. Remove the engine mount side frame nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  11. Unfasten the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  12. If equipped, remove the lower drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  13. Remove the engine mount assembly.
  14. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
  15. Remove the starter.
  16. Disconnect the transaxle mount assembly from the oil pan.
  17. Unfasten the side bolts and screws and the retaining bolts and screws, then remove the oil pan. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket.
To install:
  1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Apply a small amount of sealer on either side of the rear main bearing cap, where the seal surface on the cap meets the cylinder block. Install a new gasket on the oil pan.
  3. Position the oil pan and secure with the retaining bolts and screws. Tighten the retaining bolts and screws to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the side bolts/screws using tool J 39505 or equivalent.
  4. Fasten the transaxle mount assembly to the oil pan.
  5. Install the starter motor.
  6. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
  7. Install the engine mount assembly.
  8. Carefully raise the drivetrain and front suspension assembly. Install the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  9. Fasten the engine mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly. Install the transaxle mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  10. Remove the jackstands from the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly.
  11. Install the engine splash shield and the oil level sensor.
  12. Install the intermediate steering shaft bolt/screw. Connect the front exhaust manifold pipe.
  13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the engine support tools.
  15. Install the electric cooling fan assemblies.
  16. Install the engine mount strut and A/C compressor, bracket and the engine mount strut bracket.
  17. If removed, install the hood assembly.
  18. Fill the crankcase to the correct level. Connect the negative battery cable. Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.
Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Jun 04, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

How to install an engine


the engine ofr the 95 Le Sabre is most easily taken out by dropping the sub frame. Here's how its done:

1. Lift the car on jack stands as high as you can get it **DO NOT FORGET TO CHUCK THE REAR WHEELS***
2. Begin by removing the battery cable, air filter hose and air filter box, the front wheels and disconnecting all the sensors from the wiring harness there are 2 main harness connectors that should take care of all the sensors depending on year and model. Also remove power steering pump and Cruise control.( this includes the starter cables and remove the A/C compressor* from the engine its self.
3. The next step is to remove the exhaust manifold that is bolted to the engine (trust me it saves about an hour of frustration, and saves you an exhaust gasket)
4. next get a hoist or engine crane strapped to the motor and support the engines weight. Then begin taking the engine cradle out by removing the 4 bolts out of the sub frame.
5. next lower the motor and trans mission from the vehicle. and pull it from under the car.
6. remove the transmission bolts (there are 5) that are at various circumference of the motor to trans
7. Now support the transmission and lift the engine off the engine cradle (sub frame) and replace the new engine into the old engines place.
8. bolt the engine to the transmission and replace the starter.
9. slide the engine back under the vehicle and replace the lift or hoist back on the engine.
10. lift the engine back into place and adjust the sub frame into place and bolt that back together.
11. replace the exhaust manifold.
12. replace the engine wiring harness, A/C compressor, Power steering pump, cruise control, and attach the starter wires.
13. reconnect the air filter hose and air filter box.
14. check motors oil level, and oil filter.
15.reconnect battery
*DO NOT DISCONNECT THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM WHILE IT IS STILL PRESSURIZED!*

Apr 26, 2011 | 1995 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

I need to know how to seperate my transmission from my block


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
AOD
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.
  3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter.
  5. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. On 2WD drive models, matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  12. Remove the two bolts securing the bell crank bracket to the converter housing.
  13. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.
  14. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  15. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  16. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  17. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  18. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  19. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  20. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
  21. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  22. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture.
  23. Tighten the converter drain plug. To install:
  24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.
  27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
  29. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
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Nov 03, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

How does transmission come out


prev.gif next.gif Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

2 Answers

Had a transmission line pulled off when being towed and need to replace it. Is there any thing I can see to help me?


no, this is one of those situations where you either have the parts to splice it back together or you need to replace the whole line. . Its a dealer part unless you can remove it and go to a autoparts house and match it up.

Aug 03, 2010 | 1995 Buick Riviera

3 Answers

Do i need to pull subframe to change engine on 1998 chevy camaro 3.8 automatic


3.8L Engine - There's a lot of stuff here.
  1. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop to have the refrigerant discharged and recovered.
  2. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
  3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  4. Remove the A/C compressor and condenser hose from the accumulator.
  5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  6. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
  7. Drain the coolant and engine oil into suitable containers.
  8. Remove the 3-way catalytic converter.
  9. Remove the front fascia lower deflectors.
  10. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
  11. Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the radiator.
  12. If equipped with an automatic transmission, perform the following:
    1. Remove the transmission converter bolts.
    2. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator.
    3. Remove the transmission range selector lever cable from the transmission.
    4. Remove the left and right transmission support brackets.
  13. If equipped with manual transmissions, perform the following:
    1. Remove the transmission control lever handle.
    2. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder line from the actuator.
  14. Remove the propeller (drive) shaft.
  15. Remove the torque arm from the transmission.
  16. Remove the steering gear coupling shaft from the rack and pinion.
  17. Remove the electrical ground strap from the engine block.
  18. Remove the starter motor.
  19. Remove the A/C compressor and condenser hose from the compressor and from the condenser.
  20. Remove the negative battery cable from the rear compressor bracket mounting stud.
  21. Remove the engine coolant heater cord from the block.
  22. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  23. Remove the A/C compressor and condenser hose from the vehicle.
  24. Remove the heater hoses from the drive belt tensioner.
  25. Remove the air cleaner outlet rear duct. Remove the resonator duct.
  26. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail.
  27. Disconnect the cruise control cable from the throttle body. Disconnect the accelerator control cable from the throttle body.
  28. Remove the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat housing.
  29. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose.
  30. Remove the bracket lines and the clips from the ABS hydraulic modulator.
  31. Remove the right-hand body hinge pillar trim panel.
  32. Detach the engine wiring harness connectors.
  33. Remove the forward lamp wiring harness connectors.
  34. Remove the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the wiring harness and place them on top of the engine.
  35. Remove the engine wiring harness through the front of the engine, then place on top of the engine.
  36. Disconnect the positive lead from the alternator.
  37. Remove the lower shock attachment nuts and bolts from the lower control arms.
  38. Remove the upper control and ball stud from the steering knuckle. Use the upper control arm in order to secure the struts to the outboard.
  39. Remove the wheel speed connectors from the engine frame.
  40. Position a suitable engine support table under the engine and frame.
  41. Remove the engine frame and transmission support bolts.
  42. Raise the vehicle from the engine, the transmission and the engine frame.
  43. Remove the transmission.
  44. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch housing and the clutch.
  45. Remove the engine mount though bolts.
  46. Remove the engine from the engine frame. To install:
  47. Position the engine to the engine frame.
  48. Install the engine mount through bolts.
  49. Install the transmission.
  50. Position the engine lift table. Lower the vehicle to the crossmember in order to install the engine, transmission and engine frame.
  51. Install engine frame and transmission support bolts, then remove the engine lift table.
  52. Attach the electrical connectors to the wheel speed sensors.
  53. Install the upper control arm ball stud to the steering knuckle.
  54. Install the lower shock attachment bolts and nuts to the lower control arm.
  55. Connect the positive lead to the generator. NOTE: When routing the engine wiring harness through the front of the dash, the rubber grommet must be installed properly to ensure correct sealing. If the rubber grommet is damaged, replace it.
  56. Install the engine wiring harness through the front of the dash.
  57. Install the PCM and PCM harness.
  58. Install the forward lamp wiring harness connectors and the engine wiring harness connectors.
  59. Install the right-hand body hinge trim panel.
  60. Install the brake lines and clips to the ABS hydraulic modulator. Connect the brake booster vacuum hose.
  61. Connect the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat.
  62. Connect the cruise control and accelerator cables to the throttle body.
  63. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel rail.
  64. Install the air cleaner outlet rear duct and resonator duct.
  65. Connect the heater hoses to the drive belt tensioner.
  66. Attach the A/C compressor and condenser hose.
  67. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  68. Connect the engine coolant heater cord to the block.
  69. Connect the negative battery cable to the rear compressor bracket mounting stud.
  70. Install the A/C compressor and condenser hose to their respective components.
  71. Install the starter motor.
  72. Fasten the electrical ground strap to the engine block.
  73. Install the steering gear coupling shaft to the rack and pinion.
  74. Connect the power steering inlet and outlet hoses to the steering gear.
  75. Install the torque arm to the transmission.
  76. Install the propeller shaft.
  77. Connect the shift linkage to the transmission.
  78. Attach the radiator inlet hose to the radiator.
  79. If equipped with a manual transmission, attach the clutch actuator cylinder line to the actuator and install the transmission control lever.
  80. If equipped with an automatic transmission, perform the following:
    1. Install the left and right transmission support brackets.
    2. Install the transmission range selector lever cable to the transmission.
    3. Attach the transmission fluid oil cooler lines to the radiator.
    4. Install the transmission converter bolts.
  81. Install the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
  82. Install the front fascia lower deflectors.
  83. Install the 3-way catalytic converter.
  84. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
  85. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  86. Refill the engine with the proper amounts of coolant and engine oil.
  87. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.
  88. Properly bleed the brake system.
  89. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop to have the A/C system charged and the wheels aligned.

Jul 11, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to remova the transmission from a 96 chevy lumina


The engine must be supported from above the vehicle. Then the transmission and cradle support is lowered as a unit.
Procedure as follows.

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then remove air cleaner assembly.
  2. Disconnect electrical connectors at transaxle, then remove wiring harness retainer to transaxle shift cable bracket.
  3. Remove shift cable bracket and heat shield assembly, then wire cable/bracket assembly to body.
  4. Disconnect vacuum supply to modulator at transaxle, the remove transaxle indicator tube retaining bolt.
  5. Remove battery ground cable from grounding stud, then remove stud.
  6. Install suitable engine/transaxle support assembly, then raise and support vehicle.
  7. Remove both front wheels, then the frame retainers for front engine wiring and power steering cooler lines.
  8. Remove both tie rod ends from steering knuckles, then the steering gear heat shield.
  9. Remove steering gear to frame mounting bolts. Position gear clear of frame.
  10. Remove front engine mount to frame retaining nuts, then front and rear transaxle mount nuts.
  11. Disconnect lower ball joints from steering knuckles, then remove flywheel covers from engine and transaxle.
  12. Remove torque converter to flywheel, then the transaxle fluid pan.
  13. Disconnect transaxle cooler lines at transaxle and bracket.
  14. Remove both drive axles from transaxle. Secure axle to strut assembly.
  15. Disconnect speed sensor connector at transaxle, then support transaxle/frame assembly with transaxle table.
  16. Remove engine to transaxle bracket and bolts, then retaining bolts from transaxle to engine.
  17. Lower transaxle/frame assembly from vehicle, then the transaxle from frame.
  18. Reverse procedure to install.

Mar 12, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Lumina Mini

1 Answer

2002 pontiac grand am rack and pinion replacement how to


Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
  • Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
  • The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
  • Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
  • Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
  • Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
  • Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
  • With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
  • Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
  • Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
  • Bleed the power steering system.

Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.

Oct 27, 2009 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Replacing my mercury mountaineer starter


1. Raise the vehicle so you can safely get underneath. The starter is typically located under the engine near the transmission mating surface. DON'T RELY ON A CHEAP JACK! Use drive on ramps or jack stands safely positioned on the frame, and lock the parking brake AND chock the rear wheels to keep it from rolling.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery to remove voltage from the system. Don't want to arc yourself to the frame when you disconnect the cables from the starter!
3. Locate the starter motor and remove the nut that holds the starter cable in place, remove the cable and position it out of the way.
4. Disconnect the solenoid connector...the smaller of the two wires going to the starter.
5. Remove the bolts holding the starter to the mount...usually 2, sometimes 3.
6. Remove the old starter.
7. Carefully compare the old to the new...make sure they match.
8. Install the new starter...thread all the mounting bolts in hand tight, then torque them to the specification listed in the service manual.
9. Reconnect the two wires you removed earlier.
10. Reconnect the battery.
That should do it! Hope this helps...

Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer

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