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I have a Kawasaki ninja 600 1998 and there a little water in the oil. What kind of problem could this be from?

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  • Master
  • 411 Answers

Main causes are condensation from too many short runs...or head gasket failing...

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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DoubleClutch
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SOURCE: how to change my oil on a kawasaki ninja 750

Get the bike so it is setting upright.
There a plug on the under side of the motor. Remove the plug and have a catch pan to catch the old oil. The filter will need to be changed also. Do this before you put new oil in. Put the plug back in and open the fill plug on the side of the engine and fill with new motorcycle oil. DO NOT USE OIL FOR CARS!! Watch that you do not over fill it.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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SOURCE: Changing the oil/oil filter

I just got a 97 ZX9 and had the same issue... until I read the service manual. You need to remove the oil pipe flange bolt in order to get enough room to be able to remove the filter between the exhaust header and the motor case. Of course, unthreading the filter is an issue by itself. If you do not have the cap (tool) that fits over the end of the filter and provides access for a rachet tool to unscrew it, then you probably need to do what I ended up doing... punching a screwdriver through the old filter in order to gain the leverage needed to start unscrewing the filter.

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

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Hi, Dt_12345 ask 10 different riders and you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online otherwise Mobil 1 is my second choice.
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