Question about 2005 Honda VTX 1300 C

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How to test voltage regulator on vtx 1300 c

Want to test regulator with ohm meter

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: What is the easiest way to drain gas out of a VTX 1300 retro

You must turn your gas tank upside down to drain it.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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SOURCE: 2004 honda vtx 1300 c stalls out after down

ever drain your carbs ? should be done seasonally . fuel filter problem, sounds like it is running out of gas.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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SOURCE: looking for a manual for my 1300

I bought my 2004 1100 sabre book from Haynes.. Search inline

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

Testimonial: "thank you I found one on ebay "

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SOURCE: i have a vtx 1300. it sat for 2months during

hi,sounds like you have a blocked main jet in one of the carbs,when the fuel sits in the bowls it will evaporate and leave behind a residue that is quite difficult to remove even with a carb cleaning compound,what i do in this case is remove the carbs,remove all the jets,place all the jets in a saucer or dish and fill with petrol,leave them for a few days,this will soften the residue,then use compressed air or a crc typecan with carb cleaner and force clean them by squirting the fluid through them,do not use(as some people do) a piece of wire to clean through them,this will scratch the inside of the jet and alter the fuel flow charicteristics of the jet and render it all but useless,once you have them all absolutely spotless,reassemble and put the carbs back in,just about put money on it that your problem will dissappear,hope this helps...cheers

Posted on May 03, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: what type of oil does a 2004 Honda 1300 vtx used?

The oil is this type of wet clutch is very critical, if the incorrect type of oil was to be added it could cause clutch problems that occasionally can be corrected by replacing the oil with the correct oil, sometimes the clutch disks are impregnated with the super slippery metallic additives like molybdenum and the only cure is to replace the disks. Do not use just any off the shelf in any wet clutch and certainly not in an 1800 VTX, it can and will cost you money. Use only the Manufacturers recommendation.

Posted on Apr 30, 2012

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How do you test the stater on a 1990flhs


Hi Anonymous, you need a multi meter, first check for grounds by unplugging regulator from stator, set the meter to ohms and connect one lead to ground and the other to a stator pin, reading should be infinity. Next connect both leads to stator pins reading should be 0.2 to 0.4 ohms. Then change the meter to AC volts, start engine and meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1,000 RPM. If stator checks out then check voltage regulator with test lite grounded, touch regulator pins if test lite glows replace regulator. Good luck

Apr 09, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Voltage regulator


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Jan 28, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

2006 Honda VTX 1300 R not charging


Hi, Chuck before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
04 VTX1300C Charging System Problem
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Honda VTX1300S Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VTX1300C VTX 2004 Owner Manual

Jun 29, 2017 | 2006 Honda VTX 1300 R

1 Answer

2002 Harley ultra high voltage


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Sep 23, 2013 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Voltage regulator rectifier


Hi Mike, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Jun 13, 2013 | 2011 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy

1 Answer

My voltage meter on dash not charging only sometimes!! It's charges!!!


This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...

Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

Oct 27, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

My honda vtx 1300 was just running went back out and turned key on and have no head light but all other lights and horn works nothing happens when i hit the start button


Sounds like a fuse let go!
Get an ohm meter and check your fuses. They should read 0 ohms (or whatever the meter reads when the leads are touched together)
Remember to pull the fuses first before testing them.
I'd check all the fuses while you're there.

If that doesn't show anything wrong, then check the ignition switch itself. Turn it on and off and wiggle it a bit. If the headlight flickers, there's something wrong in the switch, and you'll probably need to pull and clean or possibly replace it.

Mar 18, 2011 | 2005 Honda VTX 1300 C

1 Answer

I have an '06, 1200 Sportster Custom with 1300 miles on it. The Check Engine light comes on sporatically. I checked the trouble code, and it says the battery voltage is too high. Does this mean the voltage...


Test the output voltage. With a fully charged battery, connect a digital volt ohm meter across the battery. Red meter lead to positive and black meter lead to the negative post. Put the function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range or there about. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. The meter shoud read out a voltage and start to climb. If the battery is fully charged, it will settle down in just a short while. It should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. If it's higher than this, the regulator should be changed.

Good luck
Steve

Sep 23, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

99 Roadking EFI, engine light came on, lights dimmed, speedodometer stuck at seventy. R&R battery worked fine for a short ride, now same result. Ohm'd coil, 4 ohms. pins to ground is high ohms Running...


Hi Mitch_steven, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

May 01, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King...

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