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My voltage meter on dash not charging only sometimes!! It's charges!!!

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This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...

Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

czaa
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SOURCE: Voltage Regulator Problem?

u want to chec alternator as well-ther r test u can do so buy a clymer manual which r very detailed-iv seen hd books in library sec 629

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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SOURCE: Battery doesnt appear to hold a charge with the lights on.

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Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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SOURCE: Yamaha FZR 600 not charging correctly with the lights on

I HAD THE SAME ISSUE. CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE OFF O THE MAGNETO, IT SHOULD BE IN THE 25V RANGE. IF THAT CHECKS OUT OK CK THE VOLTAGE IMEDIATLY AFTER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, I BET IT IS BELOW 14V. THE FZR IS PRONE TO HAVING THE REGULATOR GO BAD (THE OLDER ONES HAVE NO COOLING FINS AND THEY BURN THEMSELVES UP). THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE NEWER VERSION FROM A 1999 FZR, IT HAS COOLING FINS WHICH GREATLY PROLONGS THE LIFE. YOU HAVE TO DO SOME SLIGHT WIRING MODS, BUT NOTHING ANYONE COULDN'T DO. SEARCH FOR FZR REGULATOR UPGRADE AND IT WILL EXPLAIN EVERYTHING! I HOPE THIS HELPS! GOOD LUCK!

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

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SOURCE: I am having charging issues with my V92c. last

TO CHARGE A BATTERY YOUR ALTERNATOR SHOULD BE PUTTING OUT 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS. WITH THE BIKE RUNNING TEST THE OUTPUT AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS AND HAVE SOME ONE REV THE BIKE A LITTLE AND SEE IF THE OUTPUT INCREASES , IF NOT I WOULD LEAN TOWARDS THE ALTERNATOR

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not

First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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How to check charging system on a kohler 17.5


This is an easy check if you have a cheap, simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, for you fancy folks a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as clear).
  1. Set the meter to DC Volts.
  2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day digital meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
  3. Note voltage. It should read near13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged. If it reads below 12 volts it needs charged or it has bad cells. If after charging a few hours, the voltage is still below 12 volts then the cells are bad, replace it.
  4. Turn the key to crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. Whether the engine cranks or not, the meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
  5. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
    1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 13 or 14 volts.
    2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
    3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
    4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect. Replace the battery first. Fully charge it, and then repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.
Note:if the battery falls below 9 volts the fuel cut off, a black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (if your model has this), will cut off the gas supply to the carburetor.

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You charging system should be putting between 14.5 to 15.0 volts to your battery. Those dash gauges are not the most accurate in the world. The first thing I'd do is have the battery "load tested". An automotive parts store will usually do this for you at no charge. Take the battery out and take it to them.

You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the
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If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the
alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 30 volts.

If you do not have the 30 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 30 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator.


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