Question about Motorcycles
This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...
Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.
Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.
Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.
Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).
Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
Posted on Oct 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I HAD THE SAME ISSUE. CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE OFF O THE MAGNETO, IT SHOULD BE IN THE 25V RANGE. IF THAT CHECKS OUT OK CK THE VOLTAGE IMEDIATLY AFTER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, I BET IT IS BELOW 14V. THE FZR IS PRONE TO HAVING THE REGULATOR GO BAD (THE OLDER ONES HAVE NO COOLING FINS AND THEY BURN THEMSELVES UP). THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE NEWER VERSION FROM A 1999 FZR, IT HAS COOLING FINS WHICH GREATLY PROLONGS THE LIFE. YOU HAVE TO DO SOME SLIGHT WIRING MODS, BUT NOTHING ANYONE COULDN'T DO. SEARCH FOR FZR REGULATOR UPGRADE AND IT WILL EXPLAIN EVERYTHING! I HOPE THIS HELPS! GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
TO CHARGE A BATTERY YOUR ALTERNATOR SHOULD BE PUTTING OUT 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS. WITH THE BIKE RUNNING TEST THE OUTPUT AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS AND HAVE SOME ONE REV THE BIKE A LITTLE AND SEE IF THE OUTPUT INCREASES , IF NOT I WOULD LEAN TOWARDS THE ALTERNATOR
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.
To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.
To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.
Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.
I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
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