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Re: have a heavy rattle in bonnie 865 motor when hot...
Pinking is usually a sign of a low octane fuel, altitude or high temps that can sometimes be lessened by retarding the ignition timing a few degrees i.e. the plug sparks when the piston is closer to TDC. This is not always easily possible on modern bikes with the ignition advance/****** controlled by an ignitor box rather than a mechanical points type set-up.
Severe pinking for long periods can & will burn a hole through the piston crown. If a higher grade fuel is unavailable, try finding some sort of octane booster to add to the fuel (off road shop?).
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Hi Lorena, and the usual suspects are:
1. Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating.
2. Insufficient air flow over the engine.
3. Heavy carbon deposit in combustion chamber.
4. Ignition timing retarded due to faulty MAP, CKP and/or CMP sensors.
5. Leaking intake or exhaust valve.
6. No oil cooler.
7. Normal engine oil tempurature 180-220 degrees.
Good luck and have nice day.
Jacqui that would depend on the way you ride and/or the compound of the tyres. Soft compound may be safer if you are a hard rider, middle of the road compound if just ride for pleasure. I got 4000 kms out of a rear tyre on a 1981 Triumph Bonny.
Hot climate, warm weather, long distance riding 20w-50 is a great choice. Cold climate 10w-40 might work better. Use only a JASO MA certified motorcycle oil . Synthetics will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.
Yes definately change the oil & the filter I sugest you use lighter grade oil than normal for a couple of hundred klm's this will help to flush any sludge out of the machine oil has a habit of turning tar like when it is left in a motor which is out of service for along period fter running the lighter oil for the sujested time drain it while the motor is still hot & replace with the oil you regularly use this should result in a much more rider friendly machine.Regards Geoff
That is a typical sound on any 1987 CBR1000f. It stems from the cam chain slaping inside the case. An adjustment can make the sound go away for a few thousand miles, however it will inevitably come back. If its realy bad (aka, doesnt go away over 1700 RPM) then you should probably adjust. Typicaly there is no problem, and just let the bike warm up and the oil pump all the way arround before wraping it up. Hopes this helps.
Gooped up power valve should not produce noise. One would think it the valve was that loose, or the spring were gone it would develope a lower, strange curved, punchy power band, but not make noise. Still, it wouldn't hurt to see which spring (or lack thereof) is in the valve.
The run-on, rough high RPM and noise would tend to make me think of a lean condition. How's the plug looking?
Do check if not drain and refill the gear box, but check with your dealer that it will not affect your warranty. a little self help may prevent time consuming and inconvenient repairs at this stage, but remember gears are clunky and come in for a lot of abuse, reliable as they are.
That is quite normal - these bikes run very hot and will typically reach temp where fan kicks in (103 deg C) while bike is sitting at idle, even if not particularly hot weather. Needs good airflow through the rad to keep the temp down. Fortunately, when fan comes on it lowers the temp quite quickly.
Congrats on the 1200. A lovely well made bike. The finish is much better than on later T5 series bikes.
Usefull mods? A scott Oiler will realy prolong the life of chain and sprockets. Junk the standard silencers as they are very heavy. I took my fairing lowers off too this shed weight. The finish is good on these bikes and I think it looks great without the lowers.
Problems? As has been said the sprag clutch. Particularly on early ones. Which yours is. If it has a rectangular plate on the crank case behind the cylinder block it will be an early one. This is a good thing as a carefull mechanic who knows Triumphs can change the sprag clutch without stripping the engine. 95 onwards bikes had a redesigned sprag clutch. You can fit one of these to an earlier motor. Also get a good heavy duty battery as weak batteries can kill the sprag clutch. I've not had a problem with coils. Though I hear they can play up. If it was me I'd strip out the fuel lines and taps and replace the diaphragm on the tap and clean the filters. Down where the lines join the carbs there are some tiny inline fliters that can get blocked. The bolt that holds the alternator drive gear to the alternator drive shaft can shear. Its located behind the clutch. There is a Triumph replacement. You will nead a hollow shaft and the new through bolt. This will cure it. You can do the replacement by pushing the old shaft out with the new once you've removed the alternator and clutch. Torque on the through bolt is 12nm I think but check. This sounds like a long list but realy if all this goes youre unlucky. I've found my 1200 to be pretty reliable. The motors are massively over engineered.
To keep the black stuff looking nice I clean it with degreaser then wipe over with a light oil. Duck oil or something like. Silicone spray brings the matt black plastics up nice.
Finaly I use Avon Azarro tyres. Long life but seem to work well on a heavy bike like the 1200.
Overall I love mine. I tried a 955i which was great but ultimately its the 1200 I kept as a perfect long distance tool. For town work and general riding I bought a Thruxton, but the 1200 is a special bike not for everyone but well made and just that bit unusual.