Question about Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals,
ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust vale.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...
Posted on May 30, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.
This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.
The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.
(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.
Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.
If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.
If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.
Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
Drain the fuel either by siphening or removing the cross over tube at the front of the tank and letting it drain that way or just block off those cross over lines and leave the fule in the tank for removal.
0) remove seat
1) drain fuel
2) undo cross over line (bottom front of gas tank.
3) shut off pet **** and remove fuel line from pet ****.
4)there should only be 2 bolts holding the tank on, one at the top front of the tank and one at the back of the tank.
All in all a pretty easy (but possibloy messy) job.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
If you look at the top of the Induction module, you'll see if it is either black ( single looking tube ) or Silver ( Looks like 2 tubes together ) Single tube is Delphi, Silver Dual tube is Magnetti .
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
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