Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
When starting sometimes the engine turns over then starter clicks several times,retry usually itll start.theirs no dragging in starter.all batt. terminals have been cleaned and checked 4 tightness.the starter wires have been cleaned and checked 4 tightness.checked the batt.. with a volt meter it checks out with a reading of 12.8v. turn key on with headlites on meter reads 11.8v. then tried it at the parts store under a load and it tested at 100%. i tried meter when starting the bike the volt meter reads 9v and bike started but tried again when the starter started clicking several times (not just 1 click but several clicks) the meter reads between 6v - 7v. is it the starter,solenoid,or starter relay or even ignition switch?
Hi, Ray love that last name take away the MC and we could be kin, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid can not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Its a bad earth between battery and chassis or starter and chassis
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Testimonial: "bournetoride: Your suggestion on earth was excellent. Turns out battery could not pass a load test. No prior indication of failure. "
It sounds like you've got a bad battery. Sometimes a battery gets what I call and intermittant short inside the battery, A battery is made up of six two volt cells. If one cell shorts, the battery is now a 10 volt battery. But depending on which cell shorts, the battery could become a 4 volt battery.
How old is the battery? If it's over two years old, buy a new one. If not, take it to an automotive parts house and have them load test it. Even then it may no show up. I have a battery that would not start the automobile it was in after I shut off for five minutes after driving over a hundred miles. I had it checked several times and it always checked good but would leave me stranded one time after the next. I finally bought a new battery and that solved the problem. Batteries are funny sometimes but when your ride won't start, that ain't funny. Harley Davidson offers a very good GASMAT battery at a reasonable price now.
The next time it does this. When the clicking starts, notice the headlight. If the headlight is out, the battery is bad. If the headlight is on, replace the starter relay. A one inch cube that energizes the start circuit located under the seat or on the left panel of the bike.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
SOURCE: Harley won't start.
A harley AGM battery are usaully good for three to five years the best thing to do is have the battery load tested.Now as far as your problem now depending on the batterys state of charge the solenoid will click or not.Because you store it alot you should keep a trickle charger on the battery
Posted on Apr 11, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice, gives me a direction to pursue. Will have battery tested and hopefully that is all it is."
You need a test light on the starter terminal when it won't start. Attempt the start and if the light comes on, but the motor doesn't, the motor is defective. In that case, remove the starter from the engine and inspect each brush located at the opposite end from the drive for excess wear or weak spring tension that holds the brush in place. Don't rotate the brush 180 degrees when replaced. I don't know if rebuild kits are available--check with a dealer. Hope this helps!
Posted on May 21, 2010
Sorry to say, your battery is dead. The reading you got was under no load conditions. Put a load of about 50 amps across it and the voltage will probably fall to just about nothing if even your lights are pulling it down to probably about 8 volts. Only one solution here - you have to replace the battery.
Posted on Mar 17, 2011
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