I have ran the battery down twice on cold mornings. Choke on or off it wouldn't start. Will hotter plugs help? Do I need to shut off the fuel tap after riding? I want this bike for everyday riding. Any advise?
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Re: cold blooded starting
Hi .......... Cold mornings tend to be demanding on batteries, esp'ly if they're not a 100%. How many times does it turn over ?
I always recommend (if possible) switching off petrol just prior to stopping the engine, this ensures only a float bowl of petrol is available AND when you go to start it the amount of fuel (mixture) is limited ......... so in theory the chance of 'flooding' it is reduced. How old are the plugs ?
Give it a go and see how you get on.
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When was the last time you changed or cleaned the spark plugs. I had an older car and just would not fire up when it was real cold outside. We ran down two batteries so at zero degrees Fahrenheit I changed the spark plugs. No problem after that
also is your carburetor set up so the choke is working properly?
You need to check that your automatic enricher (often called an auto-choke) is working. You should find then when the engine is cold, the scooter hasn't ran for at least an hour, the enricher will be short. Take it out of the carb and measure the plunger. Put it back into the carb. Then start the scooter and let it run for 5 minutes. Quickly remove the enricher, being careful around anything hot, and measure the plunger again. If there is no change, it's not working. The attached link may help you to understand what I'm talking about better. Automatic Enricher Operation 10x Speed Choke Bypass Bystarter
You should also check the condition of your spark plug. If it's fouled, damaged, or gapped wrong it could be making starting more difficult.
A battery in poor condition will also make it harder to start. Battery checks link below.
Choke is engaged in morning and makes car start real easy. If the choke sticks slightly closed after shutting down the engine and you go to restart it, you'll flood the engine. Could test this theory by trying to start car after it has warmed up, but when you attempt the start, hold the gas peddle to the floor as you start it. If it starts faster then usual, I would check the float levels or choke flap adjustment. Maybe take air cleaner top off and after warmed up, look to see if that choke flap is completely open when you restart the car.
Not sure where you are (what country) but starting the scooter every so often is actually harder on it then just letting it sit. Here is a suggestion first get a small battery charger to put on the battery and bring it up to power, get some gas (fuel) stabilizer and put a few ounces in the gas tank. Motorcycle and scooters are heavily summer Bias, winter or cold starts are just not what they are meant to do. When the temperature here in Canada gets down to +10c my motorcycles can be just rude to start. Not only that the tires being tuned or made for hotter conditions become hard in the cold weather and will not grip the road surface well at all. Okay lets get back to your scooter, once you have the battery back up to power, put the gas (fuel) stabilizer in the tank and fire up the scooter, be careful not to over choke it or you will flood it. You need to nurse it along once it does start and don't rev it up to much cause it's just not going to like you until it has some heat. Once running on it's own you'll need to let it run in a well ventilated area for at least ten minutes to get that fuel stabilizer through the fuel system. Once you have done that your scooter is good to the spring. As a suggestion I'd put the charger on the battery once a month for a couple of hours at a time to keep it fresh don't stat it. What you are doing now by starting it every week or so is taking more battery power out to start then you are putting back in running it a few minutes (10) because of the cold temperatures. This will drain the battery making it increasingly harder to start and requiring more power from the battery which it doesn't have. The battery will give it's all to turn the starter which will short change the ignition system which requires at least 10 volts to fire the plug(s). You keep cranking the engine hoping it will fire meanwhile there is no ignition because there isn't enough power to make it happen. Vicious circle, that's why I'm suggesting you charge the battery before you attempt to start it again. The Fuel Stabilizer is just that it keeps the gas fresh and prevents varnishing or fowled systems. Cheers Have a Great Holiday Season from Robert in Canada
Remove the plug and then plug into plug wire. With the spark plug laying on top of engine pull the recoil a couple times and you should see spark at the plug. If all is good and there is the proper mixture of gas/oil ratio in saw then >>With trigger depressed fully and choke on, pull until it fires and then shove the choke in. /////If no spark and the saw is new, I would return to retailer.
I have 2009 lawn tractor that will not start (from day 1) unless I use a small squirt of start fluid into the air cleaner area. Nothing else seems to work. The battery will run down before it starts. Once engine is warm it starts great. Love the tractor, hate the starting problem. Elevation is not a problem in michigan.
Are you pushing down on the choke lever really hard? These things have a really tight choke lever. I choke mine and reduce the choke to maintain 1500 or so RPM until it is slightly warmed up. Then it runs fine. These are cold blooded machines.
The cold start valve is not operating correctly. Either the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad or the cold start valve itself is bad. You can check the engine coolant temperature sensor by going to radio shack or any electronic store and purchase a 15k ohm or higher resistor. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) harness. Bridge the 2 female spade connections in the harness with the resistor. Start the engine. If the engine starts you need to replace the ECTS. If the engine is still hard to start, you need to remove the cold start valve, (wear safety goggles, and whatever you do don't smoke) place the cold start valve in a glass and have someone crank the engine. You should see gas coming out from the cold start valve. If not take a ohm meter and measure the terminal at the cold start valve after disconnecting the wire harness. The meter should read 25 ohms. If it doesn't replace the cold start valve.
pull trigger press crank down till it stops let it go all the way back to the top pull trigger push crank just one click then kick it down hard also keep hand off throttle hold brake cylender instead choke once then repeat unchoke should start right up
this is very tipical. when bikes are stored the fuel varishes up the jets & needles. soak the carb. moving it back and forth in the soak solution. then blow every jet and orfice with a controlled air source. note: any speck of rust or dirt can plug these jets. pay attention to detail and do every thing twice. then install the carb and adjust it to your riding style. later Spike