I have ran the battery down twice on cold mornings. Choke on or off it wouldn't start. Will hotter plugs help? Do I need to shut off the fuel tap after riding? I want this bike for everyday riding. Any advise?
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Re: cold blooded starting
Hi .......... Cold mornings tend to be demanding on batteries, esp'ly if they're not a 100%. How many times does it turn over ?
I always recommend (if possible) switching off petrol just prior to stopping the engine, this ensures only a float bowl of petrol is available AND when you go to start it the amount of fuel (mixture) is limited ......... so in theory the chance of 'flooding' it is reduced. How old are the plugs ?
Give it a go and see how you get on.
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You need to check that your automatic enricher (often called an auto-choke) is working. You should find then when the engine is cold, the scooter hasn't ran for at least an hour, the enricher will be short. Take it out of the carb and measure the plunger. Put it back into the carb. Then start the scooter and let it run for 5 minutes. Quickly remove the enricher, being careful around anything hot, and measure the plunger again. If there is no change, it's not working. The attached link may help you to understand what I'm talking about better. Automatic Enricher Operation 10x Speed Choke Bypass Bystarter
You should also check the condition of your spark plug. If it's fouled, damaged, or gapped wrong it could be making starting more difficult.
A battery in poor condition will also make it harder to start. Battery checks link below.
Not sure where you are (what country) but starting the scooter every so often is actually harder on it then just letting it sit. Here is a suggestion first get a small battery charger to put on the battery and bring it up to power, get some gas (fuel) stabilizer and put a few ounces in the gas tank. Motorcycle and scooters are heavily summer Bias, winter or cold starts are just not what they are meant to do. When the temperature here in Canada gets down to +10c my motorcycles can be just rude to start. Not only that the tires being tuned or made for hotter conditions become hard in the cold weather and will not grip the road surface well at all. Okay lets get back to your scooter, once you have the battery back up to power, put the gas (fuel) stabilizer in the tank and fire up the scooter, be careful not to over choke it or you will flood it. You need to nurse it along once it does start and don't rev it up to much cause it's just not going to like you until it has some heat. Once running on it's own you'll need to let it run in a well ventilated area for at least ten minutes to get that fuel stabilizer through the fuel system. Once you have done that your scooter is good to the spring. As a suggestion I'd put the charger on the battery once a month for a couple of hours at a time to keep it fresh don't stat it. What you are doing now by starting it every week or so is taking more battery power out to start then you are putting back in running it a few minutes (10) because of the cold temperatures. This will drain the battery making it increasingly harder to start and requiring more power from the battery which it doesn't have. The battery will give it's all to turn the starter which will short change the ignition system which requires at least 10 volts to fire the plug(s). You keep cranking the engine hoping it will fire meanwhile there is no ignition because there isn't enough power to make it happen. Vicious circle, that's why I'm suggesting you charge the battery before you attempt to start it again. The Fuel Stabilizer is just that it keeps the gas fresh and prevents varnishing or fowled systems. Cheers Have a Great Holiday Season from Robert in Canada
Are you pushing down on the choke lever really hard? These things have a really tight choke lever. I choke mine and reduce the choke to maintain 1500 or so RPM until it is slightly warmed up. Then it runs fine. These are cold blooded machines.
pull trigger press crank down till it stops let it go all the way back to the top pull trigger push crank just one click then kick it down hard also keep hand off throttle hold brake cylender instead choke once then repeat unchoke should start right up
this is very tipical. when bikes are stored the fuel varishes up the jets & needles. soak the carb. moving it back and forth in the soak solution. then blow every jet and orfice with a controlled air source. note: any speck of rust or dirt can plug these jets. pay attention to detail and do every thing twice. then install the carb and adjust it to your riding style. later Spike
I don't think there's anything wrong with your bike. I'm assuming that all the required services have been done and you have a good battery. The **9 bikes absolutely require a good strong battery. If you don't already have one get and use a battery tender. It will save you a lot of headaches with a weak battery. As for the starter speed, the 749 turns over S-L-O-W-L-Y. It's normal, if you're use to other makes it sounds like it won't start but it will. The Fast Idle lever, not a choke, once you start the bike, let it idle about 2000 RPM or so until the coolant temp gage stops flashing, then you can slowly back the lever to minimum, if you if you just push the lever back fast it drops the idle too fast and it will die. When it's not fully warm and you have a stock injection map it runs a little lean and will be cold blooded until fully warm. The occasional stall on a cold morning is not unusual even on a properly set up bike. I normally on cool mornings keep my fast Idle lever up until I'm either on a highway/freeway or a five or so miles in town before I turn it full off. She can be a real bitch to start if she's only a little warm, not cold/not hot, I really don't know why but mine does the same thing. I give it a minute and try again and she'll fire. All this goes away once she's fully warmed up. Once you get the knack of it you'll be fine, I don't even really have to think about it anymore.