Question about 1988 kawasaki GPz 1000 RX

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Technical drawing engine & transmission

Problem on transmission abnormal noise & clutch clak clak sound.

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  • Anonymous Apr 09, 2009



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Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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1 Answer

How much latteral play is allowed on the cutch shell on a 98 dyna

I am not sure what you are calling "lateral play" but the clutch should not have any play. If the clutch hub has lateral play the hub bearing may be gone and/or the input shaft bearing may be gone. Is the clutch operating abnormally or is there transmission noise etc. WHAT is the problem that needs to be fixed???

May 27, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

2 Answers

Harley transmission slipping

Sounds like a clutch problem - the only thing that transfers drive from the engine to the rear wheel that can slip excessively is the clutch - other components can wear but not slip.

I know a huge amount of the Harley range use dry clutches not oil bath types like jap bikes.

Saying that it means its like a car clutch - these types of clutches do not like any abuse as they over heat and wear very quickly reesulting in slipping - as you are describing.

A oil bathed clutch shares the oil in the engine and has friction plates like an automatic gear box - because of the oil that can cool the clutch plates they last pretty much forever and don\'t wear from abuse.

Look at your clutch.

May 14, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

I have a 2008 road king. when I start it, there is a wa wa wa noise in the engine and it goes faster when I rev it up in neutral. When I put it in gear the noise stops But what I put it back in neutral...

Have you checked the oil in your transmission. Look at the chrome end cap on the transmission. There's a large plug that takes a hex key or Allen wrench to remove. Take this plug out and there is a dipstick on the plug. Check the oil level with the bike standing straight up. The level should be between the two lines. The transmission holds 20-24 ounces of lubricant. Your bike came from the factory with H-D Syn3 20W50 engine oil in the engine, primary case, and the transmission. Also check your primary lube level. Stand the bike straight up and remove the derby cover. The oil should be to the bottom of the outer clutch drum. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag making finding neutral with the engine running almost impossible.

Good Luck

Jul 29, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king...

1 Answer

MY dr 350 is very hard to shift from 2nd to 3rd....and from 4th to 5th clutch seems to be working fine but it left me with a 3 hr ridethat should have taken 45 min...any help would be great!!!!thnx

I hadthe same issue with my 92 DR 350N. After lubing everything to the point of excess, I pulled the crank case cover and it turned out that there was a tooth on the chutch release shaft was broken. It's the one that pokes through the case cover. The top has the clutch shift arm attached. I don't recommend doing this next statement, but it's what I did. I just removed the chunks, re-serviced the engine oil and gave it a go. It works much better, but it needs to be replaced. Also, if your clutch isn't disengaging properly, you hear the rpm slam the shaft into the notched pin poking out of your clutch plate basket, you can do a lot more damage. Open it up and see what you get. Also, check the shifting fork for abnormal or excessive wear. While you are there, inspect your clutch plates and the spacers between your clutch plates. Keep them all in order. If you have the plates out for an extended period of time, cut a clean 5qt 10W40 jug in half, put your plates and spacers in it and soak the plates in clean oil. That will keep them damage free and it keeps them moist. If it's an "all of a sudden" issue, look to the shaft. If it's gotten progressively worse over time, look at your transmission hard parts (like the fork). May as well rebuild the ****** if you find a worn part. Otherwise, it will wear the transmission abnormally and lead to an early failure of the transmission asa whole. It sucks, but it's better than crapping the whole assembly. Good luck!

Jul 20, 2011 | 1991 Suzuki DR 350 S

1 Answer

Whinning noise in the primary chain case. I alreadt replace the tensioner shoe

With the engine running, put the transmission into gear and sit there with the clutch lever pulled in. Do you still hear the noise. If so, most likely the noise is in the primary itself rather than the transmission. Since you didn't specify whether the bike is a Sportster or a BIg Twin, it's difficult to say what the noise may be. It could be a bearing going bad. The problem with that is that you can disassemble the bike and never find the bearing. It could be the big bearing in the outer clutch shell or it could the mainshaft support bearing in the inner primary if it's a big twin. A Sportster has basically the same bearings but in different areas. If the bike is equipped with one of those automatic primary chain tensioners, I've seen them make a noise as well. Then again, a noise like that is very difficult to find. It seems to travel all through the engine. It could possibly be an inner cam bearing going bad. They sound exactly like the alternator whine on a Chevrolet. If you have one of those mechanic's stethoscopes or long screwdriver, listen to various places on your engine to try to locate the noise more closely.

Good Luck

Apr 03, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDX Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

2008 Z750 bad grinding noise in first gear

It is possible that the first gear shift fork in the transmission is bent causing the 'dog-clutch' between two gears to just barely mesh. With engine off, push the shift into first and clutch lever released. Rock the bike back and forth to see if the gearing seems to be jumping in and out. There may be a problem with the shift lever shaft mechanism not allowing a complete shift into first gear. Hope this helps!

Apr 11, 2010 | 2007 kawasaki Z750 Abs

2 Answers

Engine Sound

It is normal. Nothing to worry about. What you're hearing is the sound of the output shaft rotating and meshing with the clutch mechanism.

Apr 26, 2009 | 2003 Ducati Monster 620 i.e.

2 Answers

Noisey transmission when riding pull clutch in noise goes away let clutch out noise reappears 1997 honda cbr 600 any thoughts please

Where the noise is coming from?

Head of engine?
Centre of engine?

Do you feel that your bike is riding heavy that is you are forwarding the gears but the load of engine is not lightning.

Please reply me then i will tell you the solution.

Mar 01, 2009 | 1997 Honda CBR 600 F(3)V

1 Answer

Cannot find design drawing for gpz600 kawazaki

does the bike slip out of any gear? if its second gear then your tranny is going bad, but it isnt a hard thing to fix. its just an actual gear that has lost teeth. what is year of bike?

Dec 25, 2008 | 1992 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

1 Answer

Clunking nois

there is a loud non-rythmic crunching/clunking noise. I suspected it would be either the clutch or transmission but I removed the oilpan and visually checked the transmission and oil pump and have completely disassembled the clutch, and none of these areas has any signs of malfunction. I also checked the chain/sprockets and nothing seems to be wrong there. Any ideas? The problem arose after a 600 mile road trip I took, which was the first long trip I had taken on the bike. I had used it for commuting for a few months prior to that. The first to second gear shift had gotten progressively more rough, to the point that sometimes it would not shift until I tried several times. I figured the transmission was having problems (this was my first bike so I had to learn now to use a clutch and not shift roughly), but it passed my visual inspection. The noise sounds as though there is a lose part that is getting tossed around inside the engine by a part that rotates with the engine rpm''s. If anybody has any ideas I would really appreciate it!,Cam Chain, Cam Bearings? Cam chain tensioner? these are likely suspects.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 ATK 450 Enduro

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