Question about 1991 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

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Sprockets the sprocket behind the flywheel keeps locking up and breaking. could it have something to do with the roller clutch behind the flywheel or could the problem be coming from elsewere

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When you change a sprocket, you change the chain as this will lead to premature sprocket failure

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

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I have a 1995 vs800 inturder it will not turn over i have replaced the battery and the cables its in neutral the kill switch in in the run posistion i have the clutch in i turn the key on hit the start...


The solenoid is easy to replace. The one-way clutch is underneath the generator cover on the right side of the motor. Take off the right engine cover, be careful the stator is inside it. To get to the one-way clutch you will need to pull the flywheel you may need and air wrench and a flywheel puller specific to your bike. The one way clutch is bolted to the back side of the flywheel. The clutch locks in one direction to a large sprocket. When you replace the clutch you will also have to replace the sprocket. The clutch runs up against a smooth round surface on the gear, If the smooth surface becomes chattered the one-way clutch will not grab it and turn over the motor.You will need a right cover gasket , a puller, a one way clutch, and the large starter gear that plugs into the one-way clutch.

Mar 12, 2011 | 1993 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

1 Answer

How to install stator


To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

Mar 11, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXST - FXSTI Softail...

1 Answer

Removal motorsprocket


I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 03, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

2 Answers

How to change chain and sprockets


chain and sprockets are straight forward you will need a rear paddock stand to do it, first would be to break old chain off can use a chain breaker if you dont have one an angle grinder or one of those electric grinding stones i use one works fine so use it to split the chain ideally break the chain where the chain is joined ie the split link this link will have to different rivets in it than others and is easiest to break...then pop of the back wheel is only one nut holding on the axle so is easy enough to pop off an adjustable wrench or a spanner think the size is 27m or so but you will know which fits......the front sprocket is in behind the clutch casing so that has to come off and might need to take off the left fairing not a big deal either just a pain? the sprocket can be seen when casing is off front sprocket can be awkward to work around but im sure youll be grand as for .....the rear sprocket is very easy just 5 bolts holding it in place and very straight forward..... installation of sprockets is straight forward the chain then depends on your tools if you have chain breaker is very easy but the key to putting the chain back on is making sure the new link you put back in is right way round ie links to the front an that you hammer the tips down nice and flat this make take about 40 50 minutes with a punch and hammer again i could go into more detail but i dont know what tools ya have but you cant go massively wrong when taking the bike out for a run after just keep a check on the chain for any movement hope this helps

Feb 27, 2011 | Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana Motorcycles

1 Answer

Removal of inner primary cover


For the cover you may have to loosen your shifter linkage to be able to remove it from the bike depending on what model you have
As for the inner primary you'll have to take off the clutch the front & rear primary sprockets and chain. You can loosen the bolts to both sprockets,then loosen the chain tensioner.
Slide the front & rear sprocket & chain off with the clutch still attached. leave them together and set it aside as one big unit.
The inner primary has bolts with bent washer tabs. Bend the tabs flat so you can remove the bolts.
Thre is a lock ring around the transmission shaft that holds the inner primary on too. Remove that with lock-ring plier.
Depending on your model, you may have to remove the rotor/flywheel first before the inner primary comes off.
Don't for get to put a new engine o-ring back on the front hole of the inner primary when re-installing.

Dec 03, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

I need to know how to put a new oil gasket 1986 honda xl 100cc. is it as simple as taking out the bolts that hold it on and slide in a new gasket? Thanks


If it is on the right hand side of the bike then yes. Remove the clutch cable by undoing the adjustment nuts on the engine side of the cable and unhooking from the lever. Remove the nut on the gearshift pedal and pull of the pedal. Remove the dipstick. Undo all the nuts on the cover, and remove it. Locate the new gasket on the engine. There are 2 locating dowels so it should not have diffyculty staying in place. Replace the cover and clutch cable and readjust the clutch cable.
On the left hand side of the engine is a bit more tricky as the oil is not leaking past the gasket on the cover itself. There are 2 places where it can leak from. One is behind the drive sprocket. Remove the cover. Undo the nut on the sprocket. Bend back the tabs on the locking plate and remove the sprocket. Drive a self tapping screw into the shaft seal and pull it out with a pair of pliers. Drive a new on back in place. Also see this : http://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t5649906-1996_yamaha_yz250
If the leak is from behind the alternator you will have to remove the magneto. This is diffycult as you need a puller to get the flywheel off the crank. Then the alternator assembly and only then will you be able to reach the shaft seal. This can be removed as per the previous link.

Aug 18, 2010 | 1986 Honda XL 125 R

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Replacing oneway/starter clutch 05 1100 custom


The starter clutch is on the back side of 
the flywheel rotor. It has some little springs
and rollers and only turns one way.
When the parts get worn it starts to slip.

Be careful as you can get the rear
camshaft and valves out of time in there too.
When the "T" mark is aligned the
cam sprocket mark should
point straight up to the top center of the head.
If not, the valve timing is out and you
need to either move the gears or chain
to align it all.

Aug 21, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

Starter grinding


You must take off the right hand engine cover and after unscrewing CLOCKWISE the main bolt that holds the flywheel you need a special KTM puller to pull out the stator rotor (flywheel).Behind that there is a group of parts that you should replace.The large sprocket, the clutch system that the large sprocket is into (special formed balls in a spring) and the hub that is screwed behind the flywheel.Use OEM parts (even for the 5mm allen screws if they need to be renewed).Use 18Nm for those allen screws adding locking nut adhesive on their threads (Locktite).
Work backwords to reinstall it and the flywheel's main bolt uses 120Nm of torque to tight it up on the crankshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE.Use new gasket for the engine case and 12Nm for the bolts.

Jun 03, 2009 | 2003 KTM 640 LC4 Adventure

1 Answer

Starting


The sprocket behind the flywheel has a roller clutch. Very simple but difficult to describe, maybe you could google it. Its a common clutch arrangement used on many starters. They can often fill up with **** from the oil and the small rollers and springs inside don't move freely. If this is the problem then it only needs cleaning out and I usually give the springs a little stretch. ie. another millimeter is plenty. Sometimes a spring may be broken. The only way to find out whats really wrong is to take it apart  but you will need the correct puller to remove the flywheel. Its basically impossible to do this job without the right tools. 

Dec 16, 2008 | 1991 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

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