1982 flh hard to start new starter,battery,everything new cranks real hard

SOURCE: turn signal wiring

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://mysite.freeserve.com/hhog/diagrams/23_1975_FL_FLH.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/wiringvarious.htm&h=2133&w=1310&sz=82&hl=en&start=4&um=1&usg=__7Mf2_b-KebTuaZcBpkMmz7bDKKU=&tbnid=4oYjK1wkFbSJPM:&tbnh=150&tbnw=92&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1978%2Bharley%2Bflh%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX

Try the above link, good luck.

SOURCE: assy of starter clutch on 2003 Harley Davidson

The starter on a late model Harley is a typical Nippondenso gear reduction type starter. They are all basically the same except for size.
To replace the starter clutch inside the starter assembly requires disassembly of the starter assembly.

I you will contact me directly, I will scan the procedure and drawings out of a service manual for you.

[email protected]

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at [email protected] .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

SOURCE: I need to know where the oil drain plug is on a

The oil pan is on the bottom of the transmission. Look under the transmission and you'll see two drain plugs. The one closest to the front left corner is the engine oil drain. The one closest to the center is the transmission drain.

Good Luck
Steve

Testimonial: "Thank you so much for your expert help. I am a new Harley owner and just needed a quick help to my problem. Thanks again. David Rieger"

SOURCE: Hi i have bought a

I have had two Buell Ulysses from a Brisbane Harley Dealer and have put a total of 80 000km on the two of them. I can tell you that if you have an after-market exhaust installed (EG Jardine, etc) then surging and backfires are the name of the game. Power Commander and other replacement EFCs are not the answer either (because no proper solution was in place before they stopped Buell's production). I do run a Jardine on my current model and putting in the noise limiter has made for smoother running. Also...Buell's are subect to vibration in the bars. I installed anti-vibration weights in the bar-ends and voila'...no vibration...just great as I can now see my speedometer...LOL. I hope any of this is of some use to you. I LOVE my Buell. I've been riding over 50yrs, I've owned dozens of bikes, motorcycles are my daily ride and this is my favourite machine (followed close behind by my Hayabusa).

Testimonial: "Thank you for your feed back to my problem, the Buell has not got after market bits ,just stanard. Were the Dealership in Brisbane help full ?"