Bike standing,without staring for 3 months,skips and misses, touch top of cylinders1 &2and they are warm. the only stays on by pulling choke all the way. when bike is supposedly warm enuff return choke then it turns off.
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Warm the engine up then turn the idle speed down as low as possible to see if it will go into gear. If turning the idle down seems to work, turn the idle back up just enough to support running when the engine is warm. If your engine will not idle well then it may need carb work or other engine work such as a tune up.
Open the choke by pulling the choke lever on the left
handlebar control toward you. Set the bike on its kickstand, put it in
"Neutral" and start it up. Allow the Road Star to warm up for about 10
minutes before continuing with the adjustment procedure.
Locate the idle adjustment screw on left side of the bike
just below the rider's seat. Twist the adjuster screw clockwise one full
turn. This will ensure the bike stays alive so you can adjust it to the
Close the choke lever and listen to the engine carefully.
Twist the idle adjustment screw slowly counterclockwise. You should hear
the engine speed start to slow.
Twist the idle screw counterclockwise until you hear the
engine start to sputter and die. When this happens, stop and turn the
screw one half turn clockwise. Your bike should now be idling at the
If the carb is adjusted correctly, the engine will not idle without the choke when cold. I will usually take at least 3 to 5 miles of riding to get the engine warm enough to idle by itself without the choke. If your bike is a full operating temperature, it should idle at about 1000 RPM. If it's idling higher than this, you need to slow it down a bit.
Remove the air filter cover and look at the top right side of the carb. You'll see a screw there . This is the throttle stop screw. Turn the screw counterclockwise to lower the idle speed to 1000 RPM or so. Blip the throttle and let it settle back to idle. Reset it if necessary. Once set, put the air cleaner cover hand on.
Has this 6 year old machine ever had a top-end job done? If not, then you may want to consider it. You can just replace the rings but I'd at least pull the cylinder apart and check for blow-by or a stuck ring. if your rings don't rotate freely in their channels, then it's time to replace them. If your cylinder has a glassy look to the inside walls, then it needs a hone job at a minimum. Kustom-kraft.com is an excellent choice for top-end service.. Bikebandit.com is THE place for parts.
You should be able to adjust the choke to where it will stay in without holding it by turning the rubber piece behind the choke clockwise towards you until the choke stays out on its own. You can adjust this so the choke automatically adjust as the bike warms.
Hope this helps..
On an otherwise healthy machine, the carb tuning procedure goes like this:
1) With the engine off, turn both mixture screws clockwise until they lightly "seat". Then turn them back counter clockwise two (2) full turns each.
2) Turn idle screw CCW and observe the throttle shaft movement. When it stops moving, the throttle plate is completely closed. From here, turn idle screw back clockwise two (2) full turns.
These initial settings should be sufficient to get a healthy machine to start up and stay running for the carb-tune procedure.
START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW ONE MINUTE TO WARMUP.
3) Turn the mixture screw closest to the engine (marked "L" ) clockwise in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) until the engine smooths out. Then back CCW until you have a slightly rough idle.
4) Accellerate to full throttle and turn the mixture screw closest to the air filter (marked "H" ) clockwise until the engine revs get higher and eventually begin to fall off again. Turn back CCW beyond ultimate top speed . . . until a veryslight flutter is heard at top speed.
5) Release the trigger and adjust base idle speed until the blades barely crawl, then lower it one more touch.
6) Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 once more and then check throttle response on quick rev-ups. VERY VERY small adjustments to the "L" screw in a CCW direction will give better response but larger adjustments will affect "H" settings.
Special note for step 5: When you make the FINAL base idle adjustment, set it as high as possible without allowing the blades to move. This facilitates easier starts when warm.
ya i have a yz250f and learned from a first hand experience that any racebike 2 stroke or 4 stroke doesnt like to idle for a few minutes without moviing. i started up my bike and let it sit for 8 minutes to warm up and antifreeze started spewing out. so i cut it off and called a friend that races. he told me these bikes need air moving through them otherwise they overheat easily and the antifreeze over flows because it expands. if i actually read the manual the book says not to let the bike stand and idle for more then 3 minutes cause after that amount of time it should already be warmed up. so its just the bike over heating and make sure to top off your coolant the next time u ride
Engine management light was on permernantly after replacing battery, took advice and let bike idle until thermo fan started, turned bike off and let thermo fan stop, restarted bike and engine management light went off. this proceedure resets engine management system. GREAT ADVICE thanks.