Question about 2005 BMW R 1150 GS Adventure

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Jerking at first and second gear

The right engine cylinder sounds different like a little pop and its start jerking but ok at the third and above gear.

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  • Van_Kerr May 11, 2010

    Hi ..... Have you carried out any work on the bike lately ?

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Hi, Hishamhassan for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
R1150GS Gearing
Hints and advice for BMW bike motorcycle owners K1 K75 K100 K1100 bulb...
1999 2005 BMW R1150GS Service Manual Moto Data Project
BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/services/manuals/manuals_main.html¬rack=1

Posted on Dec 30, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I installed straight drag pipes on my 2002 super glide. Runs great but second cylinder pops on decel and pops when idles. Also shows some sign of black soot at end of this pipe. Gets 48 mpg plus. there...


This is typical of all Harley's that I know of. rejetting is not going to help. Since the engine is a single carburetor engine, if you rejet to lean the rear cylinder out, you also lean the front cylinder as well. If it's running correctly now, rejetting to lean the rear will cause the front cylinder to become too lean and overheat.

Since you're complaining of "soot" in the rear pipe, I'm assuming that there is no soot in the front pipe. Most Harleys do tend to have a little difference in the mixture between the two cylinders but this sounds like a bit too much difference to me. The reason for the soot is that the rear cylinder is running richer than the front. A reason for that could be a vacuum leak to the front cylinder causing that mixture to be lean and diverting the fuel to the rear cylinder resulting in a rich mixture in that cylinder. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake to heads junction, at the vacuum port off the carb.

Another suggestion is that usually drag pipes have a "flat spot" in their performance at around 55 to 65 mph due to a lack of backpressure, I'd install a bolt in the rear of the pipes. On most drag pipes, there is a hole to bolt the baffles into the end of the pipe with. Take a 1/4" X 1 1/4" stainless steel bolt and insert it into the hole. Up inside the pipe, put three stainless steel nuts on the bolt. Do this to each pipe. It does not effect the sound of the pipes but does provide just enough backpressure to almost completely eliminate the flat spot.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 13, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

2 Answers

Transmission jumping out of gear, and not going into gears. also sticking in gear.


Sounds like a selector problem possibly due to one too many wheelies, unfortunately this involves major heart surgery to replace the worn cog (usually 1st & 3rd) however it is a cartridge gearbox so although it's a nasty job it's not quite an engine rebuild.

Hope this helps

Apr 24, 2010 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Problems selecting 3rd


shift fork problem im thinking. But we dont want to go there, change to a synthetic oil 20w50 and if your already using that type then do an oil change to see if that wont help it a bit. I've noticed that everytime i change my oil the shifting gets a "little" easier. I used to have problems of mine popping out of second a lot.. when it does that, i change the oil and make firm positive shifts to make sure i dont cause any further damage, and to work/wear the gears together again so the wont slip.After your oil change see if you can skip third and go into fouth then step it back down into third, try this over and over again. Then from a stop try to see if you can normally go into third gear if you cant... well you probably know what that means. let me know if this was helpful thanks.

Apr 10, 2010 | 2003 Honda CBR 600 RR

3 Answers

1988 Honda VT1100 Clutch problem


hi,might be able to help,there is probably nothing wrong with your master cylinder assembly,what has happened is that the clutch plates have stuck together,there are two ways to fix it,one is easy one not quite so easy,try the easy one first,what i normally do in this case is start the bike,roll down a hill or get someone to push you just to get moving,pull in the clutch,change up into second gear,to get the gear box working,change up into the highest gear you can(you dont need the clutch to change up)all the while you are still holding the clutch lever in,get up to a reasonable speed say 20-30 mph,keep the throttle open a little,keep the clutch lever in and start applying the brakes,it may take a few meters but the plates will let go and normal clutch operation should return,as the plates free up,the second option is to remove the engine cover dissasemble the clutch pack and free the plates manually,personally,i have always used the first method,sounds complicated but is actually very simple to do and will save a lot of time and frustration,give it a go first before you pull your bike apart,this is quite a common problem on bikes that have been sitting for a while..hope this helps..cheers

Mar 12, 2010 | 1988 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

Yamaha ttr 125 clicking sound in second gear


Yes, change second gear and the gear it meshes up with. This is the voice of experience talking. Whatever caused the tooth to break applied the same pressure on the mating gear. That made the meshing gear weak such that as soon as pressure is on it again, it will break a tooth or two right away. See diagram below showing pinion gears, wheel gears and slider gears.

09cd321.png 4282256.png
3783529.png This is the transmission and clutch. The ENTIRE engine tears down, top end, clutch, shifter, kick starter, flywheel and electrics, forks and drum, crankshaft etc. Needed tools are a flywheel puller, case splitter, torque wrench, impact driver and circlip pliers. This is not a beginners project. You can get a factory service manual and give it a try but I don't recommend it. The service manual may or may not have a power transmission diagram. I don't have a diagram for this engine.

Jul 25, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125 L

1 Answer

Air out of right exhaust much warmer than left exhaust.


not sure how handy you are working on the bike... but add @hotmail.com my nickname and add me to your msn... i appear to have the service manual and some other stuff for that bike

Jan 29, 2009 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Starting problem


That's normal and nothing to worry about. The clutch is a wet multiplate design (it runs in the engine oil) and has a little drag to it when the oil cold.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2005 Vertemati C500

1 Answer

Starting problem


in neutral push the clutch in and shift into first or second with out letting go of the clutch the bike jerks forward. It's like the gears punch in. The engine doesn't stall the RPMs don't even drop. The jerk isn't very big it's just that it worries me. What's going on?That's normal and nothing to worry about. The clutch is a wet multiplate design (it runs in the engine oil) and has a little drag to it when the oil cold. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 AJP PR4 125 Enduro

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