Question about 2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250

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Howdy, I have a problem with a stuck hot start plunger. Symptoms appear to be moisture has "gummed" it solid in the carb body ! any suggestions ?? MH

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  • mike374 Dec 28, 2008

    Greetings from Far North Queensland Australia,

    Yep I got that plunger outa there - but not easily.

    Yep needs a new one since the brass cable recess crumbled under modest persuasion.

    Have polished the plunger portal.

    Looks like I gotta remove and clean and lube that critter more often. Thanks for the advice - appreciated !!

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Remove plunger and replace with a new one moisture has ruined the other one clean out area well

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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How do I adjust the Idle setting on my 1996 Dodge Caravan 3.0L?


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1982 JEEP HESITATES WHILE DRIVING AND DIES


2 things. come to mind.
i check the distributor advance works to spec with my timing light (strobe)
if that is ok, its a carb issue.

carbs fail for many reasons, (mostly gummed up inside)
we clean them. that fixes them. (with a kit)
I only have this for symptoms, and is not good.
MAJOR HESITATION AND STALLING OCCURS
does the engine have full power up any hill wide open throttle
is the Hesitation only a short time then catches up.
The carb (not stated P/N or brand) has jets, the if gummed up
will cause lean running.
so will any power valve jet.
ever tune it up. new spark pats, rotor all the way to spark plugs.
bad spark , loves to fail under load, that is its , magic.
carb>
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  2. low fuel pressure causing above,
  3. bad float valve , sticks closed and starts bowl of fuel, causing #1
  4. Gummed up jets.
  5. Gummed up emulsion tubes in carb body.
  6. Choke stuck on, causing flooding,
  7. Choke dead causing hard starts . (stuck open)
  8. power valve clogged.
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my guess? based on 1 word "stall" its #1 to 3 or 6.
black spark plug tips would be #6

or if black sparks, the float valve is stuck open flooding engine and stalling.

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Leaking oil around drive sprocket


This is caused by the float in the carburetor becoming stuck in the down potion. This happens due to dirt build up or, a bad seat on the plunger that controls fuel into the carb or a leaky float. The float may have a leak that causes it to take on a amount of fuel. The carburetor needs to be cleaned and rebuilt. If you've never done this I suggest you take it to a shop and ask them to do it.

If you want to try and to it yourself buy a repair manual, carb rebuild kit and a can of carb cleaner. Use the manual to find out how to remove the carburetor and disassemble it. Take your time disassembling the carb. Find a clean place to work. Lay out each part as your remove it in order. Pay special attention to the small plunger that is attached to the float. Make sure you replace the float and plunger both. You'll get a new ones in the kit. Make sure the tube it fits in to is clean. Spaying cleaner directly into this is normally good enough to get it clean. Use a small brush or a q-tip wrapped tightly by twisting it in your fingers if you need to. DO NOT use anything that can scratch. This will ruin the carburetor. Clean carb body and all parts thoroughly with carb cleaner. Carefully reassemble, do not over tighten any screws.

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I have a 2003 honda shadow 750... problem is every time i start the bike it will only run with choke even when its warmed up and when i ride the pipes back fire like crazy... it just hasn't been...


THose symptoms are those of a bike with clogged / gummed up carbs. At this point you will need to remove the carbs, completely disassemble them, and soak the bodies in a quality carb cleaning solution, overnight.

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2005 YZ250F. Runs good with choke pulled out even after it is warm. as soon as I ush the choke in it backfires won't run. I used nto have the same symptom on an earlier model and it was always the hot...


first of all, after the bike starts release the choke, you dont want leave the choke on until it gets warm, because it makes it a really rich mix, and it will eat the oil off the cylinder wall and you can burn the rings and cylinder wall. try this. at the bottom of the carb is a fuel screw(small standard flat head screw) turn it all the way closed, then back it out 2 full turns, that should give you proper mix, right now your running way to lean, thats why its working with the choke in. has anything been done to the bike? new after market exaust? if so it could be a jetting issue. and you are correct about the hot start.....there is a little rubber gromet on the barrel of the hot start plunger where it goes into the carb, that washer could be bad, or the black plastic boot that attatches the hot start to the carb could be bad and is allowing air to be sucked in...but i would reset the fuel screw on it first....hope this help. if not, repost and we will get ya figured out. p.s. nice bike.

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1 Answer

When starting in morning or after its sit for a while it will die,i have already put a new fuel pump on it


Might want to check the IAC ( Idle Air Controller ) on the back of the throttle body. You will need to remove the plastic throttle body cover to gain access to it. 2 8mm head bolts hold this on to the back of the throttle body
ec3e89a.jpg

Wen my 2001 5.4L did this, I cleaned the plunger in the IAC with 90% Isotropy Alcohol and Q-tips, the other route is throttle body cleaner ( not carb cleaner ). I used the 90%, when I was done, shook it off, let it sit for 5 min and reinstalled ( the 90% evaporated very quick ).

The plunger could be gummed up, and it only has the issue when cold. The 2nd time I had the issue I replaced it ( in '03 ~ 70.00 online at Tasca ), this is what the new one looks like :282ac6b.jpg

The IAC is opened when the butterfly is closed, to allow air in the back of the throttle body.

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1 Answer

I have a 2001 F150 supercrew with the 5.4 engine. It starts easily but will not run in park. It will die in 2-3 seconds but will restart easily. When I used both feet on the pedels and shifted into...


Sounds like an issue with the IAC ( Idle Air Control ) on the back of the throttle body. Some times the plunger that moves to let air in the back of the throttle body at idle get gummed up, and won't move ( or move far enough ).

You will need to take the plastic throttle body cover off to get to it, it is held on with 2 8mm ( 7 or 9 ? ) size bolts ( actually a sheet metal screw with a hex head ).

When my 2001 had similar symptoms the 1st time I cleaned the IAC with throttle body safe cleaner and a q-tip. I rinsed the IAC with 90% alcohol, let it dry and reinstalled it. The 90% alcohol could be the source of the 2nd time I had an issue ( guess it dried out the rubber seals on the plunger ), so I replaced it ( think it was ~ 70.00 new from a Ford dealer that sells part online ).
Here is a picture of where it is located, bit of a stretch to get it out, but easy enough to do.
bb08266.jpg

This is the plunger on the inside that needs to be clean and operate smoothly
c0cfb78.jpg

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1 Answer

I just fully cleaned the carborators and replaced


Were the carbs leaking before you took them apart?
try this use a rugger mallet of the hadle of a hammer and rap on the carb body to jar the carbs some times after rebuilding the carbs the float has not reacted to the fuel level. or you missed something in replacing the needle seat. If the carbs where gummed up from old fuel the little plunger on the float needle may be stuck it should move freely check it if its stuck soak it in carb cleaner you may need to take small needle nose pliers and grab it and give it a little twist to fee it be careful don't chew it up then soak it work it a few times.
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