The forward drive is lost momenteraly , throughout power in second gear only 1st3rd4th n 5th is fine and deffo not clutch slip or tyre slipping on the rim. Checked when cold and hot seems to make no diffrence 1200s Bandit 1998
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Re: Slipping in second gear
The problem you are having is in the transmission. You have lost the second gear shift fork and the drive gear on the main shaft minimum, there is a good chance you also will have to replace the second gear wheel as well. The good news is you may not have to remove the top end when preforming this repair but you will have to split the lower cases to access the transmission. Below is the link you can access to see how the transmission is put together and it also has the prices for the parts you may need. GSF 1200 Parts , just click on the link and it will take you to the page to see the parts. The gears are just at $100.00 and the shift fork will cost around $32.00. Essentially the parts are not too bad but you will also need a complete engine gasket set as well. I'd buy the complete set including the top end just in case you might want to freshen up the engine. My recommendation would be to at the minimum replace the piston rings as well. Make sure you use an AN400 honing stone and you want about a 30 degree cross hatch in the hone pattern. Do NOT get crazy when honing because you are removing precious material which will increase piston to cylinder wall clearance. You pretty much want to just remove the "glaze" in the cylinders when replacing the rings. I'd also recommend doing a leak down test on the valves. All you need to do is pour a solvent down the ports to make sure they are not leaking. I'm getting a little carried away here so if you would like further assistance please send me a reply. Hope this helps you! Regards, RSelvy
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It is slipping. These big yamahas normally have slipping clutches. Mine slips, I've just learned to baby the clutch. Make sure you are in the most comfortable gear for the speed you are running at. Avoid rolling on full power at low speeds in higher gears. It's the nature of these great beasts. Clutch springs are too weak in these bikes, you may consider an aftermarket clutch spring assembly. The "shudder"(intermittent slipping) is caused by glazing. Make sure you are using the right lubricants for your bike, some synthetics can cause problems.
1)Adjust clutch cable correctly, check
2)Pull the clutch assembly apart, if there is little wear then you have "glazed" plates, clean each plate with 600 grit sandpaper and reassemble...get a new clutch spring assembly (weakened spring causes "shudder", slippage, and consequently glazing). Reassemble and adjust correctly (many forums out there with info).
3)Replace the full assembly and adjust correctly at setup. Adjust regularly....I check adjustment about every 300-500 miles.
4)Pay a shop to do these things for you.
I didn't know Harley's had 5th gears. When you start slipping in the top gears, it's usually a worn out clutch - assuming you don't have the clutch cable so tight it isn't engaging all the way. Is there play in the clutch lever?
I would revisit the clutch adjustment especially the clutch cable for smooth sliding and no kinks in the outer cable. gear 5 is normally an over drive gear which requires most power from the engine so a clutch not properly set will be tending to slip, as it will be heated and will be fading. I would look closely at the cable being hung up from the internal wire fraying and jamming on a bit.
When the bike is in the higher gears that is when the most load is on the clutch. If the bike is slipping it may be due to wear on the clutch components. One quick check is to smell the oil and if the oil smells burnt it is slipping and may do more damage if continued to be ridden. The hydraulic master cylinder should also be checked for proper operation. If you are towing a trailer and / or riding two up a lot it also puts more load on the clutch. You should also be aware that many synthetic oils like Mobil 1 are not rated properly for a wet clutch system. They are simply to slick. Your owners manual indicates that any oil that you use should be Jaso MA rated. That is compatible with wet clutches.
I hope that this helps.
If it is going to slip, 5th is where you will notice it first, so it may need new plates, the alloy ones can wear as well as the fibre ones.
Make sure you are using four stroke motorcycle engine oil ( car oils can cause clutch slip due to friction modifiers)
A rough check of the clutch can be done by placing the front wheel against a solid wall, selecting 5, and a handfull of revs, drop the clutch, the engine should stop immediately, if it spins over even a couple of times with the clutch out, it is slipping and needs work.
Wave washer on the face of the clutch basket may have lost its tension, clutch friction plates may be wearing thin as she's an old girl. Some automotive (car) oils not specifically designed for wet clutches when used in a bike will cause the clutch to slip as they are designed to leave a deposit on friction areas. This will require a thorough flush and a few oil changes in quick succession.
Check the return function of the clutch release arm on the crankcase, they can bunch up the rubber shroud and not return fully. Good luck and Cheers.
This behavior is the symptom that your clutch plates are getting worn out. Since power is transmitted from the cam shaft to the front sprocket (smaller dia) is better at lower gears but once the rpm increases the clutch plates do not catch up with the cams rotation, hence slipping at higher gears & in between 4th & 5th gears the pulling power of the engine seems to go to neutral before engaging again. Check your clutch plates as well as the sprocket-chain- rear sprocket for wearing out of the gear teeth & replace if required. You will get back full power & acceleration as when the bike was new.............sodeep