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I removed the spark plugs to put new ones in. Two of the 4 cyliders had large amounts of engine oil in them as i removed the plug. what does that mean?
very strange and rare problem. something is keping the injectors open instead of pulsing them. The command to ground the injectors comes from the PCM, Powertrain Control Module. It may be a good idea to pick up a used one from a salvage yard. car-part.com is a good place to look. You will need the info off your module to match up.
Do you have 2.0L SPI engine or 2.0L Zetec engine?
Look on the page with the * to find the lowest price part.
aso, check for shorted wire going to injectors
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Mechanical Returnless Fuel System
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank with reservoir, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel supply line, fuel rail, fuel rail pulse damper, fuel injectors, and schrader/pressure test point. Operation of the system is as follows (Figure 62):
The fuel delivery system is enabled during crank or running mode once the PCM receives a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal.
The fuel pump logic is defined in the fuel system control strategy and is executed by the PCM.
The PCM grounds the fuel pump relay, which provides VPWR to the fuel pump.
The inertia fuel shut-off (IFS) switch is used to de-energize the fuel delivery secondary circuit in the event of collision. The IFS switch is a safety device that should only be reset after a thorough inspection of the vehicle (following a collision).
A pressure test point valve (schrader valve) is located on the fuel rail. This is used to measure fuel injector supply pressure for diagnostic procedures and repairs. ON VEHICLES NOT EQUIPPED WITH A SCHRADER VALVE, USE ROTUNDA FUEL PRESSURE TEST KIT #134—R0087 OR EQUIVALENT.
Located on the fuel rail is a pulse damper. The pulse damper reduces fuel system noise caused by the pulsing of the fuel injectors. The vacuum port located on the damper is connected to manifold vacuum to avoid fuel spillage in the event the pulse damper diaphragm were to rupture (the pulse damper should not be confused with a fuel pressure regulator).
The fuel injector is a solenoid-operated valve that meters the fuel flow to each combustion cylinder. The fuel injector is opened and closed a constant number of times per crankshaft revolution. The amount of fuel is controlled by the length of time the fuel injector is held open. The injector is normally closed and is operated by 12 volt VPWR from the power relay. The ground signal is controlled by the PCM.
There are three filtering or screening devices in the fuel delivery system. The intake sock is a fine, nylon mesh screen mounted on the intake side of the fuel pump. There is a fuel filter screen located at the fuel rail side of the fuel injector. The fuel filter assembly is located between the fuel pump and the pressure test point/schrader valve.
The fuel pump (FP) module contains the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and the fuel sender assembly. The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the fuel pump in the fuel pump module located in the fuel tank. It regulates fuel pressure supplied to the fuel injectors. The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve. Fuel pressure is established by a spring preload applied to the diaphragm. Excess fuel is bypassed through the regulator and returned to the fuel tank.
Figure 62: Fuel System—Mechanical Returnless
Electronic Returnless Fuel System
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank with reservoir, fuel pump, fuel rail pressure sensor, fuel filter, fuel supply line, engine fuel temperature sensor, fuel rail, fuel injectors, and schrader/pressure test point. Operation of the system is as follows (Figure 63) and (Figure 64):
The fuel delivery system is enabled during crank or running mode once the PCM receives a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal.
The fuel pump logic is defined in the fuel system control strategy and is executed by the PCM.
The PCM commands a duty cycle to the fuel pump driver module (FPDM).
The fuel pump driver module modulates the voltage to the fuel pump (FP) to achieve the proper fuel pressure. Voltage for the fuel pump is supplied by the power relay or FPDM power supply relay. (For additional information on FPDM operation, refer to PCM Outputs—Fuel Pump and PCM Inputs—FPM.)
The fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor provides the PCM with the current fuel rail pressure. The PCM uses this information to vary the duty cycle output to the FPDM to compensate for varying loads.
The engine fuel temperature (EFT) sensor measures current fuel temperatures in the fuel rail. This information is used to vary the fuel pressure and avoid fuel system vaporization.
The fuel injector is a solenoid-operated valve that meters the fuel flow to each combustion cylinder. The fuel injector is opened and closed a constant number of times per crankshaft revolution. The amount of fuel is controlled by the length of time the fuel injector is held open. The injector is normally closed and is operated by 12 volt VPWR from the power relay. The ground signal is controlled by the PCM.
A pressure test point valve (schrader valve) is located on the fuel rail. This is used to measure fuel injector supply pressure for diagnostic procedures and repairs. ON VEHICLES NOT EQUIPPED WITH A SCHRADER VALVE, USE ROTUNDA FUEL PRESSURE TEST KIT #134—R0087 OR EQUIVALENT.
There are three filtering or screening devices in the fuel delivery system. The intake sock is a fine, nylon mesh screen mounted on the intake side of the fuel pump. There is a fuel filter screen located at the fuel rail side of the fuel injector. The fuel filter assembly is located between the fuel pump and the pressure test point/schrader valve.
The fuel pump (FP) module is a device that contains the fuel pump and the fuel sender assembly. The fuel pump is located inside the reservoir and supplies fuel through the fuel pump module manifold to the engine and the fuel pump module jet pump.
The inertia fuel shut-off (IFS) switch is used to de-energize the fuel delivery secondary circuit in the event of a collision. The IFS switch is a safety device that should only be reset after a thorough inspection of the vehicle (following a collision
remove the coil pack and look at bottom of it if it shows any cracks coil is bad very common on these vans if you have a noid light check for injector pulse on #4 if you have pulse and good blue spark most likely the injector is bad you have to remove upper plenum to get injectors out let me know how you make out
power not reaching cylinder 1 ignition coil. check electrical connections and wiring for any damage. test for power and ground at cylinder 1.
hope this helps.
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I am assuming this is when the spark plugs are still in place and the oil isn't from a spill when someone has missed the hole filling the oil.
If it is a leak the most obvious place the oil is leaking from will be the rocker cover gasket. Make sure you clean the plug and it's mounting hole before removing it to reduce any oil getting into the cylinder.
Take a good look at the top of the engine, there is a bolt on, full length cover right on top of the engine. A lot of engines have the oil filler cap mounted into it. There should a be a seal between this and the top of the cylinder head.
Changing this gasket is fairly easy and won't affect anything important like mechanical timing. If you can, clean the engine as best you can with a degreaser as this will help hunt the leak if it isn't the gasket.
*Note* When you remove the old gasket make sure both the surfaces that squeeze together are completely clean before refitting the new one. Also make sure the gasket is lined up correctly to avoid leaks. A TINY amount of gasket sealant can be used to hold the gasket in place when fitting the cover.
The cover bolts are NOT in too tight. You should wind them until you hit resistance then turn it a small amount more, Then Stop.
Best way to check remove all spark plugs before trying to turn the engine over. If it does not turn, Go to your Napa Auto Zone where ever you can find mystery oil it say this and its red add 3 to 6 oz to each cylinder let this sit for 2 days then come back on the 2nd day fill each cylinder to the top each one will take a different amount of oil after doing this put the plugs in just start them in their threads no need to tighten them. Let this stand for 7 days come back pull the plugs then lay down with a socket and ratchet with a pipe or plenty of leverage to turn the crank if the wrench does not work if you have a compressor get yourself a blow nozel that will slide down the spark plug hole and will reach the plug threads with a big rubber tip to kind of seal the compressed air into the cylinder just squeeze air into each cylinder many times each over and over some times this will break loose a seized engine its worth a try anyway your not out of anything for trying.
it means that the rubber gasket and the rubber seals on the spark plugs got hard and allows oil going through to spark plugs.What you have to do? If you know how,remove the rocker cover and renew the gasket and the seals for the spark plugs and your problem stop to exist.
Hello, first how many miles do you have on this Lincoln? On that 4.6 L V8 engine they do have spark plugs but each plug has it's own spark coil located on a long rubber plug. You will see four little coils on each side of the engine. There will wires going in to the individual coils. There will be a bracket the holds the coils in place with a small 9 or 10 mm nut. Remove the nut, and gently pull on eac coil. There Hello, first how many miles do you have on this Lincoln? If you have over 120
thousand miles on this engine then it might need new spark plugs. On that 4.6 L
V8 engine they do have spark plugs but each plug has it's own spark plug coil.
You will see four little coils on each side of the engine. There will wires
going in to the individual coils. There will be a bracket the holds the coils in
place with a small 9 or 10 mm nut. Remove the nut, and gently pull on each coil.
There a long rubber plug that fit in each spark hole. These rubber plugs are
about 4 1/2 to 5 inches long.
Before removing the plug use an air hose with 50 to 60 lbs of pressure to
blow each spark plug hole out which might have foreign object in the hole. Why,
if you remove the spark plugs, and there is foreign material in that plug hole.
Guess what, that stuff will fall into the combustion camber.
Then you will really have some problem. How fix if stuff fall into the
combustion camber.
Squirt small amount of oil in the combustion camber, unplug all the coils and
clear out there plug hole. Now remove all the spark plugs. Now, you can crank
the engine and will the little amount in that cylinder that has the junk in it.
The oil will wet the foreign debrie, and blow it out the spark plug hole. Then
use a clean rag with with some oil it with a long screw driver to clean that
spark plug hole Be careful that don't push the foreign material back into
the combustion camber. Do this several time with little amount of oil.
Now, you can install the new spark plugs. On the spark plugs threads use some
anti-shiz grease. Why squirt oil into the combustion camber? The oil is used
to seal the rings on the piston to increase the cylinder compression. Just a
small amount goes a long ways. GB...stewbison a long rubber plug that fit in each spark hole. There rubber plug are about 4 1/2 to 5 inchs long.
Before removing the plug use an air hose with 50 to 60 lbs of pressure to blow each spark plug hole out which might foreign object in the hole. Why, if you remove the spark plugs, and there is foreign material in that plug hole. Guess what, that suff will fall into the combustion camber. Then you will really have some problem. How fix if stuff fall into the combustion camber. Squirk small of oil in the combustion camber, unplug all the coils and clear out there plug hole. Now remove all the spartk plugs. Now, you can crank the engine and will the little amount in that cylinder that has the junk in it. The oil will wet the foreign debrie and blow it out the spark plug hole. Do this serveral time with little amount of oil.
Now, you install the new spark plugs. On the spark plugs threads use some anti-shiz grease. Just a small amount goes a long ways. GB...stewbison
if your getting oil on the plugs this is the first thing i would check...
make sure the PCV is open and not cloged, one of the resonse the you get oil in the cylinder is because crank case pressure goes up and pushes oil past the piston rings putting oil in the cylider and then to the plugs, that is where i would start for now
You didn't specify whether you have the (4) cylinder or the (6) cylinder engine.....
I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L 4 cylinder and I just changed the spark plugs in it. I believe that the 2005 2.4L engine is the same.
To locate and change the (4) spark plugs on a 2004 Hyundai 2.4L 4 cylinder engine:
Remove the (4) 12mm bolts from the decorative plastic engine cover. Remove plastic cover from engine and place it off to the side out of your way.
Standing in front of the car, the (4) spark plugs are located laterally (left to right) in the recessed area underneath where the plastic engine cover was removed.
Note: This engine has (2) coils....They are located above spark plugs number (2) and (3) from left to right.
Starting with the fist spark plug on the left: Remove the spark plug cable by pulling straight up on the insulated connector. Using a spark plug socket, remove the old spark plug and install a new one in it's place.
To access the second spark plug from the left, remove the electrical connector and the spark plug cable wire from coil number (1) and then remove the (2) 12mm bolts that secure the coil to the engine. Spark plug number (2) is located directly under the coil. Lift the coil straight up removing the insulated connector from spark plug number (2). Using a spark plug socket, remove old spark and install a new one in it's place.
Repeat same procedures for spark plugs number (3) and (4).
Note: If you have the (6) cylinder engine, the front (3) sparks pluge are readilly accessible but in order to access the (3) rear spark plugs, you will have to remove the intake manifold
Ok, based on the firing order from your vehicle there are (6) cylinders, and (3) are on the front of the engine and (3) are on the back. I have never even looked under the hood of one of these types of vehicles, however, You MAY need to remove the large plastic engine covering (not sure for your vehicle). If that is the case you may have to remove the engine oil (tube). The cap that you open up to add oil, twist and pull on the actual tube and it should twist off (if needed on this vehicle). Once this is removed if requiered on your vehicle, you can then remove the large plastic covering to have access to each cylinder. Once the large plastic covering is removed, put the oil fill tube back in place for the moment so no contamination gets in your engine. I would start with the back side first because that is hardest. I checked on Autozone.com and they have it listed for this vehicle that the iginition coil is set up on the left side. You should see six wires coming from this area with (3) going to the front and (3) going to the back of the engine. Start on the back side with the whichever of these wires/cables goes to the left side of the back of the engine. Please only do one at a time to avoid confusion as to the placement. What I would do in all honesty if you are doing the tune-up is to replace the spark plug wires as well. What I have used on all of my vehicles and have had great success is NGK plugs and NAPA auto parts has plug wires Belden Maxx (this is only a suggestion and I am only sharing what has worked well for ME). OK, prior to starting what you will want to do is take each individual plug one at a time, and using a spark plug gap tool (readily available at all parts places) Place the non-porcelin end (the one that has the arc in it) into the gap tool at the lowest end and slide it around until you have reached the required gap. For this vehicle it is .60 Even if they tell you at the factory it is pre-gapped and you don't have to check it, believe me it is always a good idea. I just did a vehicle and all (6) were not gapped correctly. Put each one back in the box until needed. Once you have done this,starting on the back of the engine left side find the spark plug cable/wire that goes to that side and where it goes into the engine it will have an end with a boot on it. This covers the spark plug. Twist this boot off the spark plug, it may take some effort. Once that is off if you are replacing the spark plug wires take this one and match it up with the new set (They will be different lengths). Now for the fun part, removing the plug. Using a spark plug socket (available at parts places, has rubber on the inside to grip, and protect the socket) a small extention and your ratchet, place this over the plug and apply pressure until the plug begins to turn. Once you have the old plug out, place the new plug in the spark socket and thread it in by hand (it will be in the socket but don't use the ratchet yet. Once you have the plug in as far as you can by hand tighten it down with the ratchet (don't overtighten). Place the new or old spark plug wire (boot) over the new plug and move on to the next cylinder. Do each one the same way (ONE AT A TIME, to avoid confusion). This is a long explanation but I hope it will help someone...Thanks
NOW VERIFY IF THE INJECTORS ARE FIRING OR CLOGGED OR THE COIL PACK ISNT FIRING.GET A FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE & TEST LIGHT TO HELP YOU OUT.IF YOUR SURE ABOUT THAT TRANS FLUID IN YOUR GAS TANK DEFINATELY CHANGE THE GAS FILTER & PUT SOME FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER IN THE GAS.AFTER YOU FIGURE OUT YOUR PROBLEM.GOOD LUCK
hi if you see spark plugs is wet if its oil engine oil passes valve gaides or piston ring worn out.
if you see water cylider head gasket can cause.put new cylider head gasket before fitting check the cylider head any crakes.
check the thermostad and fan.
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