An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: elect.short,no lights but trigger wrks.
You can just replace the yellow wire put bike in gear and rock it back and forth this might un stick the solonoid if not you will have to remove the side covering the starter shaft tap it with a soft rubber hammer this Will unstick the drive hope this helps give me a rating please
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Remove the plugs and visually check the condition of the plugs and then reinstall them and leaving both plugs installed remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.
If you have no spark test the coil first. There should be power to the coil primary all the time the run switch and ignition switches are ON. If not check all switches, relays and fuses.
If the CKP is defective you will also get no spark so check it last.
Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. Before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the primary circuit test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance.
You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground.
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
You turned the ignition key to the wrong position when you took it out of the bike. that is the 'P' park position. It allows you remove the key to leave the bike on the side of the road with the tail lamp on as a warning in case you break down or in an emergency.
suzuki rf600r,hi beam not working,bulb is ok,no power going to hi beam,,tuck left handle bar cassing of,,got power to the pass switch,,but when pressed,nothing happens,,cheak wire,all seen ok,,when main light on,and switch to hi beam,both wires to the buld go dead,,replace left hand cassing,still the same,,any ideas,or some 1 cheap to look at it,thanks,,
There is a short circuit in the light system. It can be checked by you alone as you are there. You may not have noticed the short as you may have driven the bike during daytime before you faced this problem. To check the wiring, you must remove the headlights and work backwards towards the battery.
I don't recall ever seeing a fuse for those lights. You may want to simply check under the rear fender where the wires run and make sure they haven't been disconnected somehow. I modified my rear fender a while ago and didn't tuck the wires up high enough. I had a passenger ride on the back and the tire rubbed against the wires and completely shorted out my bike. I just had to resplice the wires and everything worked fine after that.
Have you tested the light? It could be burned out. It is three or more years old.
Here is how to test it. Remove the lamp. With a volt/ohm meter on omh, perform a contunity test on each of the filaments. If one is burned out, you will get a "open" reading. If they are not burned out, you will get a "short" reading. While you have the lamp out, check the voltages in the plug. One of the wires will be a common, each of the others will be be for either the HI or the LOW beam.
Test the voltage with your meter set on DC Voltage ...
If both tests provide positive results; both test good, let me know and we will go to the next step.
Post any additional concerns you may have to this question. I want to help you with this trouble.
Operate the dimmer switch--does one beam come on? Check inside the headlight shell and examine the wiring from the lamp socket into the handlebar and main harness wiring. If individual connectors, check that the colors match at each connector. If you can't find any problem, then the wiring is mis-connected. Make sure the lamp socket is connected to ground.
Disconnect the two fan plugs leads from the fan sensor switch in the thermostat housing bridge the two plugs with a wire if the fan starts then you will need to replace the fan sensor switch if not the fan will need replacing ,as for the temp light flashing with the indicator light maybe because they share the same fuse and they could share a common earth as well? Cheers Michael