Question about 2006 Qlink Pegasus 150

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Ignition problems no electric signal going to the ignition coil

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  • Anonymous Apr 04, 2009

    no current to sparkplug

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  • 101 Answers

Hi ..... I'd check that power is going through ignition switch, engine kill switch and any micro switch near the side stand ........ all are potential problem areas, esp'ly the micro switch.
Good Luck.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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Need a wiring diagram on suzuki raiderj 110. Please. Tnx.


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Dec 27, 2015 | 2006 Suzuki Stratosphere

1 Answer

How do I bypass the ingition sparkler so I can get it to run


Hi, Jeffrey if you have a CKP sensor it needs compression to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM, make sure both spark plugs are in heads and use a grounded third plug to check for spark or hold spark plug cable close to spark plug in the head. If still not getting spark the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
Good luck and have a nice day.

Nov 14, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

1996 Honda VT600CD Shadow,,, bike sat in flood, water over lower case,, now no fire at plugs,,, have power going to coils, electrical lights starter all working, but no spark at plugs,,, ideas??


Hi Chris, if you have a CKP sensor it needs compression to send correct signal to the ICM/ECM, make sure both spark plugs are in heads and use a grounded third plug to check for spark or hold spark plug cable close to spark plug in head. If still not getting spark the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Battery voltage below 8.7 volts, loose or broken battery cables, check the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, MAP or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
1996 Honda Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Aug 14, 2015 | Power Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 10 year old son has an SSR125 pit bike....it quit running...it won't fire...put a new CDI Box and Coil on it, and still NOTHING! Anyone with any advice PLEASE HELP! Thanks!


Since you've already replaced the CDI and coil, I assume that you also replaced the plug and wire also. I'll also assume that you've cleaned all electrical contacts associated with the ignition system. If that is the case the only thing I can think to do would be to check the ignition timing sensor to make sure you are getting a good signal when the engine cranks. Have you verified the operation of all the abovementioned parts with a multimeter?

Mar 10, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have 76 Kawasaki 900, haved replaced ignition 3 times! One side of ignition keeps going out! What could be causing this? Bike is a KZ 900


Try disconnecting all electrical connectors( one at a time) spray them with electrical contact cleaner( not wd40) and brush the residue out with a small stiff brush. This includes the main ignition loom,coil leads,igniter leads,fuse box and regulator.
It is probably a very poor connection and this causes it to fail. When you change it it possibly renewing the electrical contact. The slightest discolouration on any of the connections will cause problems. Good luck. jamesey555

Aug 06, 2011 | kawasaki KZ 1300 A1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi there I'm stuck I don't know how to check the


Sorry but they either work or they dont.
If yours isn't working, replace it.
But before you replce it consider checking the other components, because ign mods are exspensive.
it sounds like you've been already checking the other stuff. heres what i'd check if your bike came to my shop.
1. battery fully charged, and can take a load. (weak batteries = weak ign power)
i have a bike that won't fire at all with weak battery. Make sure battery is good.
2. check for spark at plugs, make sure plugs are good. Pull plugs and turn motor over.
rest plug next to head and turn over, do not touch the plug while turning over
or you can be shocked.look for spark.
if you have spark , then you ign mod is working.
if no spark, then check #3
3. power to coils. check the power going into coils,
if power but no spark, then coil is bad.
if no power. check #4
4. power to coils comes from a ignition system ( points/ cdi /ign. module)
there is a stator and a rotor. and a signal generator. on your motor
the signal generator wire sends a signal to the cdi, every time the rotor rotates.
the ignition system (ign.mod) sends power to coil.
so if no signal to the cdi, then signal generator is bad
if signal going into cdi but not sending the power to the coils then the cdi/ ign. mod is bad.

Hope that helps
Best Regards
Big Al

Jun 28, 2011 | 1995 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

2 Answers

My 1998 Yamaha R1 rev counter is jumping up to 7.500rpm then dropping down to 0, then going back to normal, also it sounds a bit louder than usual. It sounds as if an exhaust gasket may have gone. Any...


Typically Yamaha used the firing cycles off one coil for input to the tach. The noise you hear may be misfiring on one or more cylinders. When tach drops to zero cylinder coil isn't firng, when it jumps up its firing again.
The erratic tach usually means an igniter (ignition black box) problem.
Get a manual and start with testing the pickup coils, they signal the igniter when to fire the ignition coils.
Then test the ignition coils for primary and secondary resistance, check igniter connectors for clean tight connections, full battery voltage supply to igniter etc..
Occasionally getting the igniter wet can cause erratic behavior till it dries out.

Mar 05, 2011 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

3 Answers

How to check coil and ignition module screaning harley


Check the fuse for the "igniton" circuit. Make sure you've got voltage going to the coil. If not and the fuse is good, check the bank angle switch. The bank angle switch is on the backside of the oil tank. That's the only information that I have. Good luck.

Sep 29, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...

1 Answer

2002suzukigsxr1000,fuel injection giving fault code c26?


This is normally a ignition signal fault ,and will usually be from an interrupted signal from your ignition coil which can give the code c24-c27.

Check the coil,wiring/coupler connections and power supply from the battery.

Aug 24, 2009 | 2002 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

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