Question about 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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Need to know the tire pressure for 01 XL1200C front and rear

Front tire is spokes
rear tire is solid

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Hi .... manual states 30 front & 36 rear, I find 36 front & 40 rear good for single & two up riding. Tyre pressures are measured when cold.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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Motorcycle tire pressure


According to a fury forum the tire pressures are 33 psi for the Front
41 psi for the Rear.

Please note this will be for the original tires if these are changed you need to ask the tire manufacturer. My Suzuki had Dunlop radials at new 33psi front 36psi rear. Changed to Bridgestone and the pressures now are 36psi front 39psi rear.

Aug 23, 2014 | 2011 Honda Fury

1 Answer

Steering pulling right


Hi Anonymous, top of the food chain rear wheel alignment, bottom feeders, abnormal front tire wear, loose spokes, neck bearings loose axel, off center loading, improper tire pressure, unbalanced wheel, wheel out of round, excessive wheel bearing end play. Take your pick and good luck.

Apr 16, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXSTS Springer Softail...

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Front end shakes on my 1990 flstc. what could be causing it?


Check air pressure in the tire first.
Check for worn tire tread pattern.
Check for loose neck bearings.
Check for loose spokes.
Chack front and rear wheel/tire alignment.

Mar 07, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

When I go 75 to 80 mph my bike shakes but when I have a passenger it rides fine so what it that


Sounds like the steering head need adjustment. I would also check your tire pressure. I usually set them at 40 psi front and rear. It gives you better overall tire wear and a hair better gas mileage. If you ride in a straight line and bounce the front end using the front brake listen for a clunk. If you hear it and can actually feel it I would start at the adjustment of the steering head. It could also be spokes if you have spoke rims.

Sep 25, 2013 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHTI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

At 30 MPH I have a wobble in my 2010 ultra classic


1. jack up the front and rear tire off of the ground one at a time and turn the tires while looking head on to the tire; the tire sidewall should be rotating parallel as the rim. If the sidwall is moving side to side, the belt is twisted in the tire and the tire needs to be replaced.

2. If it is a spoked rim do the same test as above but see if the rim runs straight and if it does not the rim needs to be trued by a shop.

3. If the rim is of the solid spoke type (approx 3-5 large spokes), test like #1 above. If it does not run true when rotated, the rim may be bent, the bearings bad, or the wheel could be lose.

Aug 04, 2012 | 1986 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing

1 Answer

I just god a new tire, tube, rim and spokes. Except i dont know how to install the spokes! How do i install spokes through the holes and to the rim? What is the correct order to put them in? What direction...


Thank you for the inquiry.
This is one of those projects in life that best requires special tools (Spoke Jig) and a lot of patience. I also recommend a couple of good quality spoke wrenches. The one that comes with your tool kit usually is for general emergency spoke tightening and minimal maintenance. Even at the shops there is not to many people that know how to do this well. It's time consuming and shop labor is expensive.
That being said here goes:
To get started you will need to know a couple of things:
  1. Spoke lacing pattern
  2. Rear sprocket/hub alignment position. (Chain must run true from front primary sprocket) this applies only if this is a rear wheel.
I've posted a link to some helpful pictures of wheel lacing on various bikes to give you a few tips and pointers. http://www.rcycle.com/wheellacing.html
Look at the spoke pattern on your other wheel to determine the direction to push the spokes through and determine the spacing pattern for the short or long spokes.
1) Lay the hub flat on a bench and install the spokes loosely in correct pattern. 2) Lay the rim over the spokes and push them through. Spoke direction corresponds to the receiving angle on the rim. Important to get started correctly than alternate. 3) Thumb tighten a couple of the nuts/ferrels loosely to hold rim in position. 4) Tighten nuts according to get the hub centered as best as possible (just to temporarily hold) 5) You can build a fixture with a couple of 2 x 4s as shown in the illustration or carefully clamp the bikes axel in a vice, not to damage the threads or pinch the axel nut.Horizontal position. 6) You will need to clamp a coat hanger or a heavy piece of wire to something solidly fixed to act as a reference guide. 7) Tighten spokes first for correct up/down centering then for left/right centering. 8) UP and Down: Position your gauge wire close to the top/front of the rim and rotate. Finger tighten and loosen the spoke nuts until you get the wheel running true for up/down motion. Keep going around and redoing until you get it as perfect as you can finger tight only. 9) Move you wire gauge to the side of the rim and repeat process. The front rim has a disc brake position to align for (not to critical) and the rear rim has a critical sprocket position to maintain. You will have to measure the sprocket offset to get it correct. Chain must run true. 10) Spin the rim on the axel for reference and Keep going around and tightening and loosening the spokes until you get the side alignment running true. May take a while and many spins. 11) Once you get the rim running true for both wobble and run out you are ready to slowly start tightening the spoke nuts with your spoke wrench's. Take you time and keep tightening in tiny amounts until you get tight and true. Tap the spokes as you go and listen for tension. 12) When you tap if you get a dull thunk - it's a little loose. If you get a ringing musical string sound you know you are tight and/or close depending on the amount of ring. Take your time.
Before you mount the tire be sure you mount the rim on the bike and run the axel in place to final check for front brake rotor alignment or real sprocket alignment. You may have to adjust.
I have always wrapped duct tape in the V-slot to hold the nuts and prevent spokes from coming up and puncturing the tube. Go around several times. Just maintain the groove so you can still have room to place the tire bead in to stretch for mounting.
Best wishes and good luck from a fellow biker/racer.
TF

Jun 03, 2011 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125

1 Answer

I just want to know what the tire pressure is for the front and rear tires


There is usually a sticker on the bike frame by the side cover that recommends the front and rear tire pressure. Regardless, I have found that running 35 pounds front and rear promotes even as well as longer tire wear. The ride may be harder but you also get less cupping on the tires.

Oct 04, 2010 | 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

Harly davidson heritage softtail


many things can cause this ,if you change your seating postion ( lean forward / move backwards does it go away?....

front forks loose at triple tree,
new front / rear tire more aggressive tread than before,
front wheel loose,
worn head bearings,
bent rim,
loose spokes if any,
wrong tire pressures,
loose handle bars
,some new addition to change the handling of the bike , rear seat rest etc,

Apr 30, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

1 Answer

Shakes in the front when I back off


Tighten the front wheel axle nut and the clamp nuts and bolts. Also check the headstock nuts and bolts for tightness. Make sure the front and rear wheel spokes are firm. Check the rear wheel axle and swing arm for looseness. Check the chain adjustment and make sure it is properly lubricated. Check both tires for condition and correct pressure. Has the bike had a front end accident?

Dec 29, 2009 | 1985 Honda CBX 750 F

1 Answer

( I'm Spanish..and leave in Spain)..well...I go change the front whell of my VTX 1800C'02...my mechanic..d'ont know the size of original rim...¡ and I..so ¡¡..(please,sorry my...


Here are all the specs for your bike,Please take time to rate this a fixya.

2003 Honda VTX1800 Retro Spoke
Engine Type: 1795 cc, 4 Stroke - Liquid Cooled - V Twin
Engine Bore and Stroke: 101 mm x 112 mm
Compression Ratio: 9:1
Valves SOHC, 3 valves/cylinder
Carburetion: Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) with automatic choke
Ignition system:Solid-state digital, two spark plugs per cylinder
Claimed Horse power:107 hp (79.8 kW) @ 5000 rpm
Maximum Torque: 163 Nm (120.2 ft. lbs) @ 3000 rpm
Transmission type: 5 speed
Drive:Shaft
Starting: Electronic

Suspension - Front: 45mm inverted fork, 130 mm travel
Suspension - Rear: Dual shocks with five-position spring-preload adjustability, 100 mm travel
Front Fork - Rake & Trail Angles: 32 / 163 mm (6.4 inches)

Tire- Front: 150/80-17
Tire - Rear: 170/80-15
Brakes- Front:dual 296 mm discs with 3-piston calipers
Brakes - Rear: single 316 mm disc with 3-piston calipers

Overall - Length: 2456 mm (96.7 inches)
Overall - Width: 932 mm (36.7 inches)
Overall - Height: 1128 mm (44.4 inches)
Seat Height: 693 mm (27.3 inches)
Wheelbase 1715 mm (67.5 inches)
Ground clearance 130 mm (5.1 inches)
Fuel Capacity: 17 l (4.5 Gal)
Dry Weight (without fluids): 320 kg (705.5 pounds)

May 16, 2009 | 2003 Honda VTX 1800 Retro Spoke

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