My all new pulsar 150cc is not going above 80kmh.

SOURCE: pulsar 150

Dear Pravin,

Always check for the oil level before you start for the first time during the day. If you can just shake the bike you'll know how thick or light the oil is. The more lighter, you'll have to change faster. Also check for color. Oil can be maroon/red/dark green/etc. depending on brand. If its really black, change it fast. Dont do top ups. Better drain the entire oil and fill fresh oil.

The oil also acts as a lubricant to the gearbox. If you feel gear shifting is becoming too slippery or too tough, check for the viscousity, as said earlier. Slipping gear shift can also be due to a loose chain. So check for that too.

By the time you finish 1500 kms or 2000kms, its better to change the oil.

It is better to use Castrol Power1 for Pulsar. It prevents overheating and also keeps the engine and gearbox smooth. It also maintains viscousity at high temperatures for better lubrication.

My experience:

I used to put servo and every 900-1000 kms i had to change oil. Now with Castrol, I change only between 1500-2000kms. I'm getting mileage between 50 and 55kms for a litre of unleaded petrol.

Hope this helps in solving your problem.

Have a nice time riding pulsar.

Always wear helmet and drive safely.

SOURCE: rate of pulsar 150 engine

8000 rpm is the rate of pulsar 150cc

SOURCE: what is the cost of pulsar 150 cc headlight dome?

It costs around 800.... but with fitting charges costs u around 900....

better go for a non branded which will be similar to the original costs around 400 or so... because u may not be knowing when it may gets scratches or breaks... Just think.....

Srinivas..................

Tarun Rajan

• 62 Answers
• Posted on May 20, 2010

SOURCE: Bajaj Pulsar 150cc DTSi Pickup problem

plae check ur cluth plates and more chain set

SOURCE: My pulsar 150CC silencer is partially rusted. It

Some say that "an engine needs backpressure to work correctly." Is this true?
No. It would be more correct to say, "a perfectly stock engine that cannot adjust its fuel delivery needs backpressure to work correctly." This idea is a myth. As with all myths, however, there is a hint of fact with this one. Particularly, some people equate backpressure with torque, and others fear that too little backpressure will lead to valve burning.
The first reason why people say "backpressure is good" is because they believe that increased backpressure by itself will increase torque, particularly with a stock exhaust manifold. Granted, some stock manifolds act somewhat like performance headers at low RPM, but these manifolds will exhibit poor performance at higher RPM. This, however does not automatically lead to the conclusion that backpressure produces more torque. The increase in torque is not due to backpressure, but to the effects of changes in fuel/air mixture, which will be described in more detail below.
The other reason why people say "backpressure is good" is because they hear that cars (or motorcycles) that have had performance exhaust work done to them would then go on to burn exhaust valves. Now, it is true that such valve burning has occurred as a result of the exhaust mods, but it isn't due merely to a lack of backpressure.
The internal combustion engine is a complex, dynamic collection of different systems working together to convert the stored power in gasoline into mechanical energy to push a car down the road. Anytime one of these systems are modified, that mod will also indirectly affect the other systems, as well.
Now, valve burning occurs as a result of a very lean-burning engine. In order to achieve a theoretical optimal combustion, an engine needs 14.7 parts of oxygen by mass to 1 part of gasoline (again, by mass). This is referred to as a stochiometric (chemically correct) mixture, and is commonly referred to as a 14.7:1 mix. If an engine burns with less oxygen present (13:1, 12:1, etc...), it is said to run rich. Conversely, if the engine runs with more oxygen present (16:1, 17:1, etc...), it is said to run lean. Today's engines are designed to run at 14.7:1 for normally cruising, with rich mixtures on acceleration or warm-up, and lean mixtures while decelerating.
Getting back to the discussion, the reason that exhaust valves burn is because the engine is burning lean. Normal engines will tolerate lean burning for a little bit, but not for sustained periods of time. The reason why the engine is burning lean to begin with is that the reduction in backpressure is causing more air to be drawn into the combustion chamber than before. Earlier cars (and motorcycles) with carburetion often could not adjust because of the way that backpressure caused air to flow backwards through the carburetor after the air already got loaded down with fuel, and caused the air to receive a second load of fuel. While a bad design, it was nonetheless used in a lot of vehicles. Once these vehicles received performance mods that reduced backpressure, they no longer had that double-loading effect, and then tended to burn valves because of the resulting over-lean condition. This, incidentally, also provides a basis for the "torque increase" seen if backpressure is maintained. As the fuel/air mixture becomes leaner, the resultant combustion will produce progressively less and less of the force needed to produce torque.