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Re: coils are hot to the touch
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, am not familiar with a T120 Bonneville. However to my knowledge, there would only be 2 possible reasons why the ignition coil would heat up as you described:
the - terminal of the coil is wired to the ground; or
the CDI/igniter is shorted or in older designs, the contact point/condenser is shorted to the ground. On the contact point, it is also possible that the gap is erroneously set that it would appear to be shorted to the ground.
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Hi, I would suspect that the dual coil is the problem, normally on the Bonnie you have a spark every other stroke. Because the engine is a parallel twin (both pistons go up and down at the same time) you are firing both plugs every time the pistons are on the ignition stroke. This is why you get a shock the HT has to go somewhere and you are releasing this to the frame when you take out a plug. Dual output coils are really designed for 4 cylinder bikes where the second spark can be lost during the firing cycle. Most old Honda's CB400/500/550/750 used the dual coil ignition system. You need to have a coil for each plug as you had before. Hope this helps
if you have multiple coils then there will be a regular misfire on a particular cylinder. If you have sets of coils then the coil that handles a set of plugs will misfire on those plugs. If you have one coil to do the lot then indicators are engine will not start, coil lead will show a weak orange spark when sparked to metal, engine will start fine and run for a period of time before the coil overheats and starts to break down ( misfiring), coil is very hot to the touch (burning ) after minutes of operation.
Had the same problem. Took it to local guy and he put it on the computer and found the wire running underneath the driver side floor mat had gone bad. Had to do with the security shut-off, which this wire affected. Replaced that wire, and the car has been running great ever since - happened 19 months ago.
If this is aheat pump or reverse cycle unit that amps in heating is to high. Should not go over nameplate amps in heat or cool. Sounds like maybe two things. Overcharge and stopped up coil on the inside air handler. The reason for the high amps is in heat the head pressure is higher than normal. So check the coil inside and have the charge checked because that compressor wont run long pulling that much amps over nameplate. Keep in touvh Rus.
Check vacuum lines and hoses. Breaks in your vacuum lines will make your car feel like its choking. I had 3 rubber connectors go bad and my car shut off every 15 minutes (summertime) Stopped when I check all lines and replaced bad connectors. Your fuel pump might be bad as well. Check your ignition coils (maybe icm too)