HAVE TAKEN CARBS OFF AND SOAKED AND CLEANED THEM REBUILT THEM PUT THEM BACK ON AND GOT THE SAME THING THAT I HAD BEFORE I TOOK ANYTHING OFF. IT WILL START AND IDLE WITH THE CHOCK ON BUT WHEN YOU GO TO CRACK IT STARTS TO DIE. ITS A V STAR CLASSIC WITH TWIN BDS28 CARBS, ANY TIPS WOULD BE HELPFULL. THANKS
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I've owned many polaris snowmobiles and to me it sounds exactly as the current owner states. It probably needs the carbs thoroughly cleaned, taken out and apart. I would also get new plugs as well. I prefer ngk plugs for my sleds. If you've never done it there ate plenty of you tube videos on how to clean and adjust the carbs.
1. choke circuits still plugged up or carbs not cleaned correctly; most people that attempt to clean their own carbs do not have the proper equipment to do it with. Most carbs have really small orifice(jets) and require really small jet drills/orifice cleaners to clear them out. Cleaning them in a caustic soak tank will clean them out but the carbs must be taken completely apart or it will damage any gaskets or rubbers parts left in it. Carb cleaning should be left to professionals unless one has experience doing it.
2. Open/broken vacuum lines can make it hard to start and backfire when letting off the throttle; jets that are not cleaned out correctly can also make it backfire.
3. If the backside of the inlet grommets are not sealed at the flange and have a vacuum leak, that will cause hard starting and backfire also; this applies to carbs with a flange style grommet. If the intake grommets are cracked or leaking it too will cause hard starting and backfire. Remove the carbs, wipe the head and mating flange surfaces with laquer thinner, let it dry and then reseal the grommets back to the head with rtv silicone rubber. Make sure to wipe any excess rtv(before it drys) from down inside the port before putting the carbs back on.
Mine was stored for 20 years, I ended up replacing the seat and needles, cleaning them thoroughly and when I tried starting it, nothing!! No gas was going to the carbs, it turned out to be my gas pump, it was seized by the old gas remains 'varnish' so I had to clean it numerous times, soaked it in gas cleaner (short period at a time 15 minutes or so, being a very powerful cleaner, you cannot leave it for long without causing greater problems, thus I was able to get the pump going by boosting it with my car batterie, having more cranking amps directly to the pump, the pump was able to release itself from the old crusty varnish.
you need two tools, a compression gauge and a spark gap tester. min 100 psi compression but cylinders have to equal each other within 6%. the spark has to jump the spark gap tester a half inch. If the engine passes those two test then fuel is most likely the issue. ethanol gas is reported to only stay stable in carburetors for 30 days in 90 + degree weather. So cleaning the carburetors will be the next step.if you havent cleaned carbs before. Take pictures of the hoses and linkage before you start disasemble carbs from engine. when dissembling the carbs be very careful. There is a parts breakdown at www.crowleymarine.com. click on parts catalog and click on the product line tab then year tab and horsepower tab. after cleaning and reasembling the carbs to the engine sync the carbs to where the throttles open and close together. look at the pictures you took make sure you put everything back.
have 04 polaris predator 500 doing the same thing, when giving full throttle it seems to be hitting a limiter a couple of 1000 rpm below full rpm, but will only start with air box disconnected from carby and spitting gas out, might be buggered T.P.S unit have bought new Keihin Flat CR carby with T.P.S on it so to replace one on thumb throttle as it has taken some knocks ( should be able to test T.P.S with volt meter when pushing the throttle), a cdi unit and coil will see how that goes.
Sounds like the plugs are fouled out, I would pull them and make sure they're about the color of a paper bag. If they're all sooty and wet you most likely have a rich condition. I would take the carbs out and clean everything and pop in a new set of plugs. I have a 87 Fz600 that was acting up until I cleaned the carbs.
sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim