Question about 1982 Honda CX 500 B

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Can't get the exhaust to seal at the balance box.

Tried all kinds of methods, from Chemical metal to lead flashing.

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  • rodshiel Dec 22, 2008

    Exhaust putty is too hard, it just crumbles when the pipe cools down and contracts. that was the first thing I tried.

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There should be an asbestos seal between both - has it gone missing?

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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Rusted out or just not sealing? If rusted out, probably time for a replacement--I found lotsa great parts for my 78cx500 on ebay. Or find a local bike wrecking yard and go pull one

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • Bob F Mar 21, 2009

    Not sure if that RED rtv can withstand the temp?

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Hi ..... Have you tried exhaust putty from a motor factors, you may have to take apart and smear over both parts as you assemble, it hardens as the exhaust warms. Good Luck.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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Catalyst evaporative system


No such thing. Are you confusing the catalytic converter in the exhaust with the evaporative emissions system that routs fuel tank vapors to a charcoal canister and then into the engine to be burned?

The catalytic converter just takes the exhaust gas through it, and by a chemical reaction with the rare metals in the converter acting as a catalyst, it burns most of the remaining hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) in the exhaust for a cleaner, less polluting exhaust.

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Will not start backfires


Prob miles off here but my zx7r did this after being sat 20 months. Turned out it simply had exhaust gaskets totally inoperable. The block where the pipes come out, therefore was in fact sucking air in as the hot fumes were spitting out, mixing up and creating a mini explosion. Check pipes are all sealed nicely tightly. Everything else you did sounds right. What about lifting tank off - airbox off (check that) and look at carbs? clean? Sounds daft this but is it sat with 2 year old petrol in the tank too? It's as if the mixture is going in, plug is igniting but then like its no compression? Mine 'was' simply exhaust gaskets. Think they would do the same if you totally stripped the whole exhaust off and tried starting with a couple of dirty great holes in your bore. Will it not even start with jump leads to a large car battery? Did mine to our landrover and forced it to start - endless charge from running landrover. Take a plug out, connected to your HT lead, turn it over but touching / earthing plug onto part of your metal frame / casing. Should see the actual spark, if not its your coil / ht leads??? Not an expert just had Kwakker long time lol. Love hate relationship.

Jun 08, 2013 | 1993 kawasaki ZXR 750

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Clculate the amount of oxygen for the combusion of carbon 188gms calculate the mass of carbondioxied form?


This problem is the type often encountered in a first semester chemistry course, whether in high school or college.

It is very easy to solve if you already understand the following concepts, and if you also have had lots of practice applying them!
  • PROPORTIONS
  • THE MOLE
  • The LAW OF CONSERVATION
  • CHEMICAL EQUATIONS
  • BALANCED CHEMICAL EQUATIONS
  • STOICHIOMETRIC CALCULATIONS
  • SIGNIFICANT FIGURES, PRECISION, & ROUNDING OFF CALCULATED QUANTITIES
Initially, I will assume you already understand the above concepts, except for "stoichiometric calculations." I'd be happy to focus more on the other topics at another time, depending on interest, as indicated by posted questions.

To solve this problem you must be aware of the balanced chemical equation, as follows:
dubblea.jpg Notice that there is one C, one O2, and one CO2.
(For convenience in my post, I am writing the subscripts on the same line,)

"One what?" You might ask. It can be one "molecule" for each the O2 and CO2; and one "atom" of C. For the method of stoichiometry in this problem, we should use one "mole." So, there is one mole of C, one mole of O2, and one mole of CO2. In other words, the PROPORTION of these reactants (C and O2) and product (CO2), is one to one to one, also written one:one:one (or 1:1:1).

As I am assuming you know, these numbers are called the "coefficients" of the balanced chemical equation.

To calculate the mass in grams of O2 (the unknown quantity), we will need only the moles of O2 and the moles of one other substance from the balanced chemical equation. Since we are given the mass of C, we can use the moles of C.

TO WORK A STOICHIOMETRIC problem using a balanced chemical equation, YOU MUST INCLUDE THE MOLES OF TWO SUBSTANCES from the chemical equation in your calcuation, in this case, moles of C and moles of O2. As you know, you can calculate moles of C from the mass (in grams) of C that was given in this problem. You must calculate the moles of O2 by use of the following math expression:

mol O2 = (MOLE RATIO of O2 to C) x mol C.

(Notice that I have used the official abbreviation of moles, which is "mol".)

I will show you how to calculate the MOLE RATIO a moment.

Once you have caculated the moles of O2, you will have only one more calculation to do to calculate the number of grams of O2. Since I am assuming you already know how to calculate grams from moles, I will skip this step until my closing summary.

The MOLE RATIO can be calculated as follows:dubblea_2.jpg The calculated mole ratio will always equal the ratio of corresponding coefficients.

Notice that the mole ratio actually represents the ratio of the coefficients that are in the balanced chemical equation, and is written in the same order as are the calculated (calc'd) moles.

Therefore,
dubblea_4.jpg
So, you can see that the number of moles of O2 = calculated moles of C.

The moles of C were calculated as follows:

The calculated moles of C = [grams C] / [MW of C] = [188 g C / 12.0 g] = 15.7 mol C


Therefore, there are 15.7 moles of O2, as calculated from use of the math expression (with boxes) shown above.


The wanted GRAMS of O2 are calculated from MW of O2 times its number of moles, as follows:


Grams of O2 = 32.0 g O2 x 15.7 mol O2 = 502 grams O2.



For your convenience as you make conversions among grams and moles, you may use the following memory aid: dubblea_5.jpg

To go from moles to grams, just notice that moles are beside MW, so multiplying them will give grams (moles x MW = grams). If you want to go from grams to moles, notice that grams are over MW, so (grams/MW) = moles. If you should want to calculate MW, you would divide grams by moles, (grams/moles) = MW.


One more tip: When doing calculations, use at least the same number of significant figures (sig figs) in the molecular weights (and atomic weights) as is in the given numerical data. That is, since there are three sig figs in 188 grams of C, use 12.0 as the atomic weight of C, and 44.0 as the MW of CO2. You would obtain the same answer using 12 and 44, but as you may know, following this rule would be more important in other problems in which the digit past the decimal is not zero. This allows proper rounding off of the final calculated quantity.


In Summary

  • Write the chemical equation, and balance it.
  • Use MOLES to do the necessary stoichiometric calculations. Convert grams to moles to make this possible.
  • Multiply the calculated moles of the given amount of chemical compound (or element) by the COEFFICIENT RATIO of the two compounds involved in the problem.
  • Convert moles to grams if grams are asked for by the problem.
  • Round off correctly.
  • Show the answer quantity, which should always show both numerical value AND unit.

Suggestion: Try out this method to other problems involving a chemical reaction. Good luck!


***



Dec 12, 2010 | Scientific Explorer My First Chemistry Kit

1 Answer

Iam going through a lire and a half to two litres of oil between my oil changes,what is causing this?


Try to get work done under Warranty as you have about a 3 Year old truck. For this kind of oil loss you must have bad piston rings or valve stem seals or a leak. The best exam for your truck would be to pull the sparkplugs and check their condition, then do a compression test.

A quick test, an Electronic cylinder balance test would only give minimal information for weak compression but is not intrusive. When Piston rings are installed their ends are staggered to seal in oil and compression. If they were not staggered when installed or if they rotated by themselves; all the gaps will line up and you have problems.

Another non-intrusive test is a chemical tracer test. Some Autoparts stores may carry kits for this. The kit has an Ultraviolet pen flashlight, colored Goggles, and a chemical additive for the oil.
You add the chemical to the oil, run the vehicle, then use the penlight and Goggles to see if the oil is coming out of the engine. There will be a Glow and you can see oil everywhere.

When you contact the Dealer you can also ask about Service Bulletins for your particular Model. I hope my Suggestions have helped you. Would be interested in your results.

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Sounds like the smell of fruit that has gone bad. There is no odor per se that a refrigerator or freezer "manufactures".......Freon is sealed and is odorless--that's the only kind of fluid/chemical that a fridge condensor circulates. Look for some food that has gone "south" first.

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Strandby power indicator flashes 6 times repeatedly


Hi,
According to the symptom the problem is of thermal fuse which needs replacement, the part number is given below:
1-910-006-44

The method to change it, is given below:
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Act according to the instruction and it will solve the problem.
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Do you know what a Slide Hammer looks like? A long rod with a handle on the end, and a weight that slides on the rod. The weight hits against a stop made into the handle. At the end of the rod you attach various tools. You can attach a hook, or a threaded bolt, or screw, and many other attachments.

The reason I described a Slide Hammer, is that there is a miniaturized version of it, to remove hard to get at seals. At the end of this tool it has two 'fingers'. (Spring steel pieces of hooked flat metal) These fingers are forced through the rubber part of the seal, and the fingers spread out. They catch the metal outer ring of the seal.

Then the weight on this small slide hammer is slid hard against the handle, and after a few taps it withdraws the seal.

This link is to illustrate one companies version of this tool,

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-Tools-OTC1173-Slide-538274577/prices-html

Kind of pricey if a person just wants to use it one or two times! However it is the proper professional way.

There is another method that you may want to consider. Not a professional method, but if done correctly, it can save you in a pinch. (And also save $80 to $100 for the above tool!)

With this method you have to use care not to scratch the selector rod shaft, nor accidentally scratch the bore of the transmission, where the seal goes into.
A sturdy pick tool with a curved hook end is used. You carefully feed the tip of the curved hook, through the rubber portion of the seal. Then you clamp a pair of vise grips onto the pick tool towards the end of the tool. (Opposite end of the curved hook)

Making - Sure the tip of the hook, is resting against the middle of the metal part of the seal, you tap the pair of vise grips with a Small hammer. Tap the vise grips so that they are pulling against the tool, pulling the seal out.

Use the tool to pull out on the seal's metal ring on one side, then slide the tool over to the opposite side, and start tapping again. Keep working around the seal, until you work it out far enough to grab it with pliers, or needle nose vise grips.


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