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The battery compartment is at the very bottom of the bike, just in front of the rear tire in a metal box, sitting between the exhaust pipes. There are two 10mm head bolts that hold a trap door closed to let the battery drop down and out.
To take the battery out, you'll first have to unscrew the positive and negative leads on the battery. The negative is on the left side of the bike (same as the gear shifter) just above the heatsink looking piece of metal. Unscrew that first.
The positive is on the right side (brake and throttle side of bike) and has a red wire connecting to the battery. You can see it just above the exhaust and brake wire as you look at the bike. Unscrew this second, then unbolt the trap door. On my bike, I have to lift up the exhaust pipes a bit to get at the bolts. Once the trap door is down, the battery will drop and you can angle it out with the bike on its kickstand.
Check intruderalert.com for more info on Intruders. They have some indepth guides and pictures. I learned everything about my motorcycle from the guys there.
Prob miles off here but my zx7r did this after being sat 20 months. Turned out it simply had exhaust gaskets totally inoperable. The block where the pipes come out, therefore was in fact sucking air in as the hot fumes were spitting out, mixing up and creating a mini explosion. Check pipes are all sealed nicely tightly. Everything else you did sounds right. What about lifting tank off - airbox off (check that) and look at carbs? clean? Sounds daft this but is it sat with 2 year old petrol in the tank too? It's as if the mixture is going in, plug is igniting but then like its no compression? Mine 'was' simply exhaust gaskets. Think they would do the same if you totally stripped the whole exhaust off and tried starting with a couple of dirty great holes in your bore. Will it not even start with jump leads to a large car battery? Did mine to our landrover and forced it to start - endless charge from running landrover. Take a plug out, connected to your HT lead, turn it over but touching / earthing plug onto part of your metal frame / casing. Should see the actual spark, if not its your coil / ht leads??? Not an expert just had Kwakker long time lol. Love hate relationship.
If this is a Gilera DNA 50cc ( or scooter with the same engine, ) then try looking behind the water pump. It could be either the seal or a crack in the casing. This allows the water to run straight down into the cranckcase, even when the engine is off. The bike will start but run like a bag of nails, pushing white steam out of the exhaust and won't rev over 5 thou. Don't ask how I know...
Drain the coolant and remove the two water pipes that run from the radiator to the pump. Remove water pump and look for signs of damage to the casing (you may have to clean it with degreaser) If the seal is damaged it will be evident and can be replaced with a new one. If the casing is damaged then you can:
1) Pay through the nose to have it stripped down and alloy welded (ouch!)
2) Pay through the nose to have it stripped down and replace the casing (ouch again!)
3) Use emery cloth to rough up the surface and mix araldite, chemical metal, or plumbing repair putty (not plumber's mait, silicone sealant, super-glue, snot, chewing gum or anything like that...) Make sure it is pushed fully into the gap but be careful not to get it on the seal or the crank end. Then when it is completely dry, refit the pump and pipes, refill the system and see if it all goes to plan. Start the motor and watch the coolant level and temp guage. Top up the level as the bubbles come up. Hopefully all will be well and Robert is ***********'s brother.
Hi you will need to get some gasket paper ( oil paper) medium thickness for the underside of the cylinders, you have your headgasket, you may nee to get a number of orings which fit around the dowels and seal the oilways ,the rocker cover should be fitted with a rubber seal which fits in a recess in the rocker cover, you could use some rtv sealent to help seal it, but dont overdo it, you have the metal cover for the breather cover. Tip check all rocker cover bolt holes for thread condition before reasembling ,
sounds like u have a crank seal going bad sometimes you can put the old one back in place and fix all the extra oil in the exhaust it would be the seal on the right side of the bike. sounds like the seal came out if you get to much fuel in the case it could cause the seal to pop out I would ck that first any questions send me a email i will be happy to help.
May be CDI, but check all your grounds first. Make sure you have a clean metal to metal connection of the coil to frame. Disconnect the leads going to the kill switch also. you may have a high resistance to ground short. Also, did you replace the lead coming out of the coil going into the spark plug? did you reuse the old lead?
Remove it, remove the bowl, the float, float needle, and all of the jets, and spray carburator cleaner through ALL of the ports. (You should see it come out some where else.)
Note the idle, or pilot jet may have holes along the side of it, make sure they are all clear.
If the carburator is too gummed up, then the parts need to be soaked in a chemical called "hydro seal." This is available at auto parts stores. Keep in mind that this chemical will eat gaskets, and plastic.
This symptom could cover a WIDE range of problems. Lets start with simple stuff. Put new spark plugs in it. Pay attention to the ones that come out and where they came from ( is the front one white and the rear oil fouled?). Make sure your tank has nothing but fresh fuel in it. Then, check your ignition wiring for faults/ bad connections.
Hopefully that sovles your problem and you find something obvious. If not you need to methodically determine if its a ignition, fuel, or compression issue.