1250 SA K8 Fell of the sidestand (Again!!!! Who designed that thing?).
As well as losing another £40 clutch lever (:-s), the indicator got pushed into the fairing. I can see it looks to be just a push fit into the fairing but should I undo the nut in the centre first or is it just a lubricate and fiddle job?
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remove excessive fluid from clutch reservoir
check the clearance at the throw out lever to slave cylinder rod
check for blocked compensating port in clutch master cylinder
what you describe indicates a fluid pressure build up from heat being generated which expands the fluid
if it has no where to expand to it will push on the throw out bearing lever and slowly disengage the clutch ( slipping)
that effect multiplies the problem until the clutch plate will not absorb any more heat and so a condition known as brake fades
if every thing external proves to be in good order , the the problem may very well be a weak pressure plate for the clutch which is allowing the clutch plate to creep and eventually build up heat until it slips
replacement of the clutch kit will be expensive and time consuming so make sure or all external items first
Bikes are fitted with a sidestand switch and clutch switch that work together. If you try to ride off with the sidestand down (switch activated), releasing the clutch activates the clutch switch and cuts the engine out. Pull the clutch in and the engine will start on the button only to cut out again if the sidestand switch is activated and you release the clutch.
A common problem is a dirty sidestand switch that stays activated even when the sidestand is lifted up. This is because it is situated low down, generally under the bike and will get covered in all sorts of road grime, especially in wet weather.
To remedy this get someone to hold the bike upright, enabling you to get on the ground and locate the switch. This can be done by raising and lowering the stand whilst looking all along the length of it paying particular attention to where it pivots and around the spring. My bike (also a Kawasaki) has a "pin" that is pushed in when the stand is down. If it gets cloggeed with road grime it also stays pushed in when the stand is raised and then cuts the engine off when I try to ride away. A good wipe around the switch area and a good dose of WD40 remedies the problem.
Okay.....I think you have a sidestand switch problem.
Do you notice that if you leave it in gear after it stalls....that even with the clutch in it won't crank the starter?
The sidestand switch is a plunger that presses in when the sidestand is down. The interlocks on the RS require that to start the bike...with the sidestand down, it must be in neutral. If you place it in gear which the sidestand down, it kills the ignition to prevent riding off and snagging the stand on the road etc..
So if you had the sidestand up before placing it in gear.....since the bike sat for a year...I suspect the plunger for your sidestand switch is stuck partially in (its been pushed in for a year!)
Find the switch down by the sidestand pivot....have someone hold the bike or support it so you can raise the stand, and spray some WD40 on the plunger and work it in and out letting it snap out several times then try it again.
You don't mention the year and model...but here are some general ideas.
Most Yamahas have various safety interlocks designed into the wiring system....typically a neutral switch, a sidestand switch and a clutch switch, a tipover switch and a kill switch on the right handlebar.
The design basically is to prevent riding off with the sidestand down....so if the bike is in neutral, the neutral switch grounds to light your neutral lamp and allows for ignition and starter operation.
Is you place the unit in gear...if the sidestand switch senses the stand is still down, it kills the ignition and starter.
If the bike is in gear, starter will not operate, unless the clutch is pulled in and the clutch switch detects this happening.
Tip the bike over and the tipover switch kills the ignition and fuel pump if it has one.
So...is the igniter (black box/brain etc) getting supply voltage...if not check the ignition fuse, and the handlebar kill switch .
Is the neutral light working....if not...try starting with clutch in and sidestand up.
There are a few safety interlocks on most Yamaha street bikes.
The starter circuit will only operate if:
the bike is in neutral and the neutral light indicates this OR
if the bike is in gear (or neutral light not showing) you must have the clutch pulled in and the sidestand must be up (there is a clutch lever switch and a sidestand switch )
The engine stop switch "kill switch" on right handlebar has to be in the RUN position to allow starter cranking.
Well...normally with most bikes...neutral indication is only needed to start the bike while its on the sidestand.
Even though it is in neutral because it doesn't indicate it, you need to have the sidestand up, and the clutch lever pulled in to attempt a start. Make sure kil switch is set to Run.
If it does start....because of no neutral indication, it should kill the engine as soon as you try to set the sidestand down.
If it will start and run....to look for the neutral indication issue, you need to trace the harness going to the neutral switch (or gear indication switch depending on make and model).
Any chance of rodent damage to wiring while stored....just seems odd the neutral light worked before...and now it doesn't. My experience is with Yamaha, and they usually grounded the neutral circuit at the switch, so you need all wiring connections secure and no wire breaks to get neutral indication, and satisy the interlocks.
There is a tiny switch at the clutch lever housing assembly, the wires that are on tht switch may hve been distrubed unknowingly whilst you were refitting the cable.
Not bad too if you can check the switch which has a tiny protusion towards the clutch lever, it may probabley need a little adjusting or cleaning,spray some WD40 to it.
To access it from the lever side , it would be best to remove the clutch lever.
Hope this helps!