1989 honda prelude s clutch problem, I can put the clutch pedal down, feels like its working ok, slave cylinder moves the clutch fork the normal distance, yet the clutch never disengages, i changed all the hydraulics and it still does the same thing, could the clutch itself have broke, maybe the pressure plate? the first time i noticed any problems was when i went to start the car up and the car was moving forward with thre clutch down, then it acted like something let go then it worked again, but it got harder to shift till i had to start it in gear to get it home, previous owner says he had the clutch replaced not long ago, and the clutch doesent slip,

It's a manual transmission, then? If it is, your clutch is not working. You need to check at the transmission's bell housing to see if the clutch pedal being depressed causes the clutch fork to move-either forward or backward, it should move about an inch with the pedal pushed to the floor.. The clutch pedal will either be cable operated, or it will be a hydraulic clutch with a clutch master cylinder on the firewall, and a steel tube going down to the bell housing, where a small "slave cylinder" operates the clutch fork.

If you see the clutch fork move a fair amount, at least an inch, then you probably need a new clutch disc and pressure plate. A clutch job means removing the transmission to replace the clutch.

If the clutch fork does not move, either the cable has too much slack-for cable operated clutches, or the hydraulic unit has a problem-for hydraulic operated clutches. One of your hydraulic cylinders may be bad, either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.

With engine off, does the shifter get gears easily?
If so, it could be your hydraulic clutch. Check the fluid level on the clutch master cylinder's reservoir-on the firewall. If it is low, add brake fluid to it. If it was dry, you will probably have to bleed the hydraulic clutch down at the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing.
When clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch master cylinder will force fluid down the line to the small slave cylinder. There, a small plunger is forced out (about an inch or less) from the slave cylinder, and pushes the clutch fork forward. The fork causes the clutch inside the bell housing to operate. Look for this movement of the slave cylinder pushing the clutch fork while someone presses down or pumps the clutch pedal. With the engine off, of course.

The clutch master cylinder must have gone out, the seals in it have failed. The clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder) gives you hydraulic pressure so the clutch pedal can operate the clutch.
You can buy a new clutch master, a rebuilt unit, or yours can be rebuilt with new seals. Save time and money and buy a rebuilt or remanufactured unit. Once installed, you bleed the system down at the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transaxle.

Can you put it in gear with the engine off? You could have a broken clutch fork, failed master/slave cylinder, hydrolic leak, or a busted throw-out bearing. If the clutch fluid is full you know you don't have a leak. Some Fords use the brake fluid reservoir for the clutch master cylinder. If you can see your slave cylinder, have someone push the clutch while you look for movement. If it moves about one inch then you'll be taking the transmission out to replace the clutch and/or throw-out bearing.

Your clutch is both complicated and simple ( confused? That's because there are many types and variations of clutches)
OK, I'll give you the simplest version.
When you step on the clutch pedal, it is either attached to mechanical linkage, a cable, or a master cylinder that works the same as the one for your brakes. Jeeps use a master cylinder.
The fluid pressure at the master cylinder pushes a slave cylinder on the bellhousing (just like the wheel cylinder on a drum brake...only difference is that a wheel cylinder has a piston on each end, a clutch slave has one piston) When you make the piston move, it pushes on a part called a clutch fork which is a simple lever...push on one end and the other end travels in the opposite direction. That lever is attached to a bearing (called a throwout bearing) that is positioned around the input shaft of the transmission, sliding back and forth on it. When the bearing is pushed against "fingers" on the clutch pressure plate assembly, it forces the actual plate to move back away from the clutch disc. The disc is normally held tightly sandwhiched between the plate and the flywheel by springs in the plate cover.
Further clamping force is sometimes applied by counter weights on the "fingers" that react to engine rpm. (depending upon clutch design)
So, when you step down on the pedal, you are moving the slave piston, the fork and the bearing which causes the clamping force on the disc to be relieved, allowing it to spin free and since it is connected to the input shaft of the transmission which is splined so the disc (also splined)can drive it. Bottom line is that when the disc is compressed between the flywheel and the pressure plate it turns the transmission gears, moving the car. When you push the clutch pedal down, it releases that pressure and no power goes into the transmission.
Jeep also uses an alternative design that eliminated the clutch fork but essentially everything else still works the same.

Do not put oil in this system.It uses brake fluid in the reservoir.If the system doesn't have any fluid in it, there is a leak, and both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave should be replaced. They both were used the same amount of times, and wear evenly. When you add fluid, the clutch master cyl compresses the fluid down the line/hose into the clutch slave cyl. This depresses the clutch fork/arm and disengages the clutch disc so the input shaft into the transmission stops moving, allowing the trans to be put into gear. LOOK FOR THE FLUID LEAKING TO ISOLATE THE PROBLEM. This is a closed system, and the fluid never gets used, unless there is a leak.

This depends as dose it do it when cold or hot.
2nd when you push in pedal and put in gear dose it go in clean or hard to select 3rd can you hear a grinding noise when pushing in pedal and noise goes
when you take you foot off the clutch pedal IF so then its the thrust bearing on clutch REPLACE ALL .4th if you push in clutch pedal and select a gear and let the clutch out if drive right out (replace)

I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads)
Good luck with your project !!

Either your master or slave cylinder is leaking (if hydraulic) Replace leaking cylinder with repair kit and blead the system. More serious it could be a problem on the clutch assembly.

it is a hydraulic clutch system, especially on the 89 prelude. I have one the exact year model, and i had a hole in the slave cylinder hose going to the transaxle from the slave cylinder.

To refill the reservior, use DOT 3 brake fluid. The reservoir is located just to the left of the brake fluid reservoir underneath the hood on the driver's side firewall. you can't miss it.