Has done this 4 times in the last month. Yesterday twice. Drove about five miles and was in a slow moving traffic delay about 15 minutes. Drove on about 8 miles. Shut engine off about 5 min, Slow Crank. Another 5 miles, shut engine off aboout 15 min, Slow Crank. Time before was after a 30 min ride, engine off 1 min. Slow Crank. Moved about 100 feet, engine of 10 min. Slow Crank. Starts on 2nd attempt. Otherwise starts instantly. Honda Shadow ACE Tourer 1100 40k miles, with great service record
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There may be water in the carb float bowl from condensation. There should be a drain screw on the side or bottom of the bowl. Just remove the screw and let it drain then replace the screw. Turn the gas on, wait for the bowl to fill up then try to start it. Is the air filter clean? Install a new spark plug.
sir,there are 2 reason
1. please check bolts of small fuse connecter near the battery ,sometimes it get loose ,ectually that is main positive connecter to battery
2.please replug the rectifier-regulater cuplers ,otherwise you need to replace the regulater
I just went through this over the last 2 months with my 97' Standard. I tore down the carbs, cleaned, replaced all O-rings, Vac tubes and rejetted with new Factory Pro jets. Did not solve the problem. I finally determined it was the gas. I must have gotten a bad tank of the stuff. As soon as I swithed over to a name brand, Cheveron, Texaco, Exxon, etc. the problem was solved. Give that a shot before you start tearing things apart like I did.
check battery leads (both ends) , Then make sure battery is charged 100% (verry important) Get out your (Digital) volt meter set it to DC volts Connect leads to the Battery, it should have at least 12.6 v , Watch meter and start engine, if meter drops below 10.0 volts your battery may be weak and will have to be replaced, or your starter is'nt mechanicaly efficient and will have to be fixed or replaced. While engine is running note voltage should be 12.6-13v volts, then rev engine to 3000 RPM , meter should read 13.5- 15 vdc. If not you have a problem with your stator or regulator/rectifier.
though if it was a problem it would have blown the 10amp fuse????Don't rely on on whether the bike will start at a gas station to determine if the charging system is working. Get the multimeter out and do a proper test. Should be getting about 14.5 volts @ around 3K RPM. It's too easy of a test to to just skip. If it is charging then start looking for something else.
Was the new battery properly charged to begin with?
Loose battery connection?
I suppose the GPS could be too much but you said that it was dying last november so I would suspect something else.
P.S. you need a properly charged battery to get an accurate reading for the charging test.
everything working perfect.
Wednesday night i was riding home from work and got about halfway home bike had a small bog while coming up for a turn onto another street pulled in the clutch and stall. Rolled to a stop and fired the magic button. The motor would turn over and act like it wanted to run (had to give a small amount of throttle) for about 2-3 seconds and then would die. Did this about 5 times and the typical dead or low batter clicking occured.
Got the bike home and it has been on the tender for the last 2 days and i just put some time in on the bike and sure enough bike will turn over although kida sputtering and making slight backfire sounds (almost as if timing is off) and will run for about 2-3 seconds and dies. I can do this about 4-5 times and the infamous clicking starts to happen again. Now my bike has never been a cold start bike, i always have to give it a bit of throttle when its cold to keep it running, but once it warms up runs like a champ...or atleast it used to. Its a fairly new battery and has been kept on the tender when the bike is not used for a few days. Now the other thing that bothers me is it seems that oil may be seeping out from where the head and the case meet, but very little. The motor does have a slight coating of oil around the gasket area. I did send the motor to ATK back in late 04 or 05 and had the reliability and upgrade done to it but have only about 500 total miles on it since then, with about 400 of those in the last coulple of months.
,Even with a good bike battery 4-5 tries is about all they have.So forget about the battery and go with basics fuel,compression and spark.
Also sounds like you need some mapping help, you should never have to touch the throttle when starting. The will run perfect if they are tuned.
Do you know what map is in it? Did ATK also change the ECU to a .atj map?,,,