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Re: drive chain adjustment
To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases. You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm. Please let me know if you need further assistance. Regards, RSelvy
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I haven't had any problems with the balancing system. If the noise is coming from the left side, check the primary chain adjustment/adjuster. If it's coming from the right side, check the cam shoes. The shoes went bad in my '04 Fatboy and whined like it had gear drive cams. Good luck!
Properly tensioned new chains will require readjustment after a short 'break-in' period as they stretch. Some, improperly tensioned chains have long spots in them and they are difficult to properly adjust. All chains have a difficult life - even properly adjusted - properly lubricated - properly used (not abused). With a proper load (your weight) you should have about 3/4 inch play midway between the front and rear sprocket if your chain is properly adjusted. When properly adjusted and properly tightened, your chain should be checked weekly until you see no difference in the 3/4 inch. After that you should check the adjustment monthly throughout the life of the chain.
But, remember that when you are sitting on the bike and the suspension is compressed there is less slack in the chain, so don't tighten the chain too much. Tighten it until you have an inch and a half / 3-4cm of slack in the mid point of the chain between the front and rear sprockets.
There is only one wheel you can align.The back one.If the front wheel is correctly assembled and sitting in it,s correct place,the back one is the place to look.On the end of the swingarm is the rear wheel,the axle for the rear wheel and the adjuster.The axle has marks on it to determine the adjustment of the rear axle/chain/belt.If both are the same and the drive belt/chain is correct,then the alignment is correct.Nothing more you can do.Both sides have marks or notches.Make sure they are the same and all is good.Dont overtighten the chain/belt.Hope this helps
Several things here. Do an oil change, 10w40 motor oil. Run premium gas and install a new NGK spark plug one heat range colder than stock. It sounds like you have an air leak causing a lean fuel mix. Check the carb mount bolts and the intake manifold bolts for tightness. Also set the valve clearances with a cold engine > .002 intake and .003 exhaust. Check for any cylinder head leaks. This would show up as oil on the cooling fins at the base of the cylinder head. Tighten the head bolts if needed.