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Re: brake pads too tight in front wheel
Hi welcome to fixya.com
You have a 1992 cbr250 sounds like it could be 1 of 2 things . take off pads and spin wheel ,look for bent front disk. 2nd is you may have a frozen caliper. Remove brake resivoir cap and remove caliper.sLowlY depress brake caliper piston ,it may overflow resivior,so get some onte to assist so it doesnt spill, you may just need to replace fluid,if you can get the caliper unstuck. I would recomend getting new caliper, lines,and front disk,especially if you plan to use the bike. Its a nice bike ,unfortually these parts just reach there wear limit sometimes. Hope this helps or gives you more to try to solve your problem. Thanks for your support !
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is what supposed to feel tight ?
.... remove old pads , clean calipers , push back pistons ... add anti seize to backs of pads ... reinstall , check brake fluid is at correct level , go for a ride , ... get up to about 50 kph , then apply brakes in a progressive manner to bed brake pads in , do it 5 times , to make sure ...
lift the front of the bike and see if the wheel turns freely. if there is even the slightest catch in the wheel, it is most likely the wheel bearing going out...which you don't want at speed. it can also be brake pads singing against a smooth rotor. you can try taking rough sandpaper and lay it upright on a smooth surface. while wearing gloves the whole time, take off the front brake pads an rub the surfaces on the sandpaper. reinstall them and see if the noise quits. if so. you need a complete brake service on the front. if not, you should look into the wheel bearing further.
undo 2 nuts connecting brake caliper to bike (leave the hose connected) once loose and the pads removed, loosen the brake fluid holder lid, the cylinder needs to be pushed back into the caliper, a 'G' clamp is ideal for this. put new brake pads in as the old ones came out, bolt back on bike checking 1 pad on each side of disk, pump brake a few times untill pressure can be felt on clutch lever, repeat other side. Important..only loosen one at a time replace pads then do other side.
It sounds like one of the caliper pistons may be sticking. Try spraying the pistons with brake cleaner and then using a large flat bladed screwdriver compress the pistons back into the caliper. Afterward, depress the pedal/level to see if that fixed the problem. If not, you should return it to the dealer so they can find out exactly what the problem is.
A warped brake disk or loose disk can cause a shimmy or "pulsing" in the front wheel. Check by gently applying the front brake. Feel a pulse or hear the pads repeatedly rub then release? Obviously, the disk run-out can be checked with a dial gauge but most owners don't have one. Ignore the brakes for a moment and check the wheel, wheel cylinder and disk mountings. Are they tight? Are the wheel bearings solid, does the wheel have lateral play? Does the steering stem have any movement, i.e. bad or loose stem bearings? Low pads should not cause your problem. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
Look at you bike front wheels, make sure your bike is sitting on a level ground and the steering is straight.. You will see 2 brake calipers gripping your brake disk that is your brke pads. In the middle of the caliper body there should be a Hex key bolt, use appropriate key to remove the bolt of the caliper, remove the pad, on installing new pads make sure you have open your master cylinder reservoir and removed at least half of the oil so when you compresses the caliper piston the oil doesnot overflow out.
Put in your new pads, lock them with the Hex bolt and now see how much oil is in the reservoir, if needed, top up to make it full enough. Press your hand brake while hand spinning the front wheel to test the pad gripping position, if it grabs immediately. Your job is complete.
Its a simple nut & bolt job .Not having owned one I assume its the same as most super bikes .There will be a pinch bolt or two on eack leg .these grip the main axel bolt which is normally screwed in one leg .There will be spacers ( Take care as some times these spacers are diffrent sizes ,so remember there position ) .You need to remove the brake cylinder .But you may find that the brake cylinder unit will not clear the brake disc because the inner wheel rim is stopping it .you have to release the fluid in the piston chamber and push the brake piston / pads back to get enough clearance to clear the disc .and if there is no centre stand you will need a bike lift unit to raise the whole bike off the ground to get the front wheel out.If in doubt seek advice from your main Kwaka agent ..
Remove the caliper (brake) take note of the position of the anti-rattle spring, like a thin meatal plate on the edge of the brake pads. May be coverd with a plastic shield.
Then remove the brake pin(s) they cross horizontally through the top edge of the brake pads, usually chrome or gold colour.
The pads will then drop out,take note of any backing plates that may come out with the pads, as it is important that they go back right way up etc.
While the pads are out inspect the brake pistons for rust,pump the brake lever once no more as the piston will come out,big nightmare !!.so be carefull.
clean with soft brush ,then push back with soft metal or hard wood dont damage the rubber.The piston will resist so be patient .
Once the pistons are home,smear the back of the new brake pads with copper grease match head size per pad,and reverse proses to re-fit.
lock-tight caliper retaining bolts and torque to spec.
PUMP BRAKE LEVER BEFORE RIDING OFF as pads will not touch disc first go.give final inspection try brakes while standing next to bike ,then gently bed them in for next 100 miles or they will glase over.
If it sounds like "swish-swish" noise, that is nornal for your bike. HD changed the front brakes in the 90's and the result was better stopping performance but there is that darned swishing sound. Don't worry about it, mate, there's nothing wrong with your bike.
Now, if you start to hear squealing when you pull the lever, take the bike to a shop to have the brakes pads replaced. If you feel vibration when you apply the brakes, take it to a shop immediately and have them check the wheel spokes for tightness.
same way you do on a car. remove the wheel, take the caliper unit off and replace the pads.
1) Put the bike on a milk crate or a bike jack stand
2) Take off the front wheel, the axle comes off like a large bolt
3) Remove the caliper unit from the disc, probably allen wrenches will be needed or at least metric wrenches
4) The pads will come out with a little of force and removing the retaining springs. Take note of how the springs are attached to the pads and caliper unit. You will have to re-assemble the caliper and pads and springs
5) use a C-Clamp to push the piston back into the caliper unit. After you get the caliper unit off of the bike you'll see what I mean. Probably a 6" c-Clamp will work
6) Check the disc for wear and tear. You might have to replace the disc.
7) put new pads into the caliper and attach springs. Take your time, putting the pad springs back on may be tougher than you think.
8) reassemble the caliper and the disc.
9) Put the wheel back on and squeeze the brake. Remember you used a c-clamp to push the piston all the way back into the caliper unit. Squeezing the brake will force the piston out and push the pads against the disc.
10) Time to TEST DRIVE the bike. Go slow and check for wobble or uneven braking. If needed retighten the caliper unit, just don't over tighten the caliper and strip the threads.