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Re: brake pads too tight in front wheel
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You have a 1992 cbr250 sounds like it could be 1 of 2 things . take off pads and spin wheel ,look for bent front disk. 2nd is you may have a frozen caliper. Remove brake resivoir cap and remove caliper.sLowlY depress brake caliper piston ,it may overflow resivior,so get some onte to assist so it doesnt spill, you may just need to replace fluid,if you can get the caliper unstuck. I would recomend getting new caliper, lines,and front disk,especially if you plan to use the bike. Its a nice bike ,unfortually these parts just reach there wear limit sometimes. Hope this helps or gives you more to try to solve your problem. Thanks for your support !
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Hi,food for thought,have you checked that the wheele bearing is not worn(put bike on centre stand hold wheele on tyre 6 clock and pull with one hand and push with other hand)and see if you can feel eney play in the bearing,if so replace,also with bike still on back wheele spine wheele and see if it pins freely and that the discs are not warped,if not then if there is a fork brace check that it is tight ,check that the head racers are not loose or worn,with bike still on centre stand hold weele with one hand and front brake with other hand push and pull with wheele strate towards and away from bike and feel for play if there is try tightening,if not,then turn front forks left and right still holding the forks and wheele in same place do this slowly and when the wheele gose past the centre piont(strate)feel for eney notchy ness,if not bearing should be ok,if there is notchy ness replace,if its none of these I would get the wheele rechecked that it was balanced right,all the best hope you get to the bottom of the problem.
Look at the back wheel fork, you should see marks on it that line up with marks on the axle fitting. Check the chain for a master link. If is has one you can take the chain off there. If not loosen the axle and push the wheel forward to get slack in the chain.
Loosen the nut that holds the back wheel and pull it back until the chain is tight and then retighten the nut. If when the chain is tight, the wheel is not on the rear frame, you need to take a link out of the chain.
Yes, something isn't turning freely. It's either the front wheel, the back wheel, or the pedals and chain. Lift the bike off the ground and turn the front wheel by hand. If it doesn't turn very freely, it could be the hand-brake is dragging or the hub bearing is too tight. Try the back wheel in both directions. It should move freely in the forward direction. When rolling it backwards it is normal for the pedals to move too if this bike has a coaster brake (that is the kind of brake that is applied by pushing the pedals backwards.) It the back wheel moves forward freely, but backwards is a problem, then try the pedals by hand with the rear wheel off the ground. If this doesn't turn freely, the pedal crank bearing (a.k.a. bottom bracket) is too tight. Once you have identified the problem take it back to where you got it. It should be easy to fix, or they should replace it.
you must have two spanners, on each side of the shaft you need 2 (two) nuts thyats four in all as one locks against the other. start by putting on the two inners and hand tighten them against each other, next put on the two lock nuts and when hand tight, use spanners to lock them in (only tighten them down, do not use force. now spin the wheel? is it too tight, loosen off slightly on one side, repeat until happy.also try shimano.com they have great tutorials
you need a "bullit" skewer, (if you don't have one already) on your back wheel.
This is rounded at both ends to sit in the clamps on the turbo trainer.Make sure that the wheel unit on the trainer is low enough so that you can mount your bike. clamp in the back wheel, not too tight as you will cause damage to your hub. Raise the wheel on the trainer to the back wheel of your bike, again, not too tigt as there will be a lot of heat from the friction of the wheel against it, but tight enough to prevent slipping. get on your bike and prepare to sweat like hell!!!
I hope this was of some help,
there is not as much rake and trail on a dual sport as say a cruiser type making the straight line steering less stable at higher speeds than a bike w/ more rake and trail.,but on the other hand , much less steering effort and slow speed manueverability at lower speeds on the dual sport. raise front wheel up off ground and secure bike. come around to front of bike, kneel down and grab bottom of forks and pull & push front to back looking for steering stem bearing play if any tighten steering stem & recheck not too tight -steering should flop over when just off center ,if not -too tight loosen just enough.if still play after tightening, check bearing condition. also check front wheel bearing for play, and look for leaking fork seal,finally look for uneven tread wear caused by these conditions.make sure tire is properly inflated.
Hydrolic: Set the tappet at its lowest point by rolling the rear wheel with the bike in gear (on a stand of course.) Adjust the push rod until there is no shake. Load the tappet 4 full turns. The push rod will be tight. Wait at least 15 minutes before moving to the next one to allow the pressure to dissapate. Don't want to bend a pushrod or valve. Repeat for all 4 push rods.
Solids: Same as above but push rod should spin freely without any up/down slop. No need to wait for the bleed off. Go right on to the next one.
Take the wheel off the bike. take the outer two nuts & washers off. You will then have another set of nuts. You should only beable to get eathier a 1/2 or 9/16 wrench on the inner nuts. Then tighten those nuts. Not too tight, just snug. Replace the wheel on the bike, replace the washers & nuts and tighten those tight.
You should beable to pedal.
You did'nt say if this is a single speed, 3sp, 10sp or 15sp. If you have additional gears, then you may have to reallign the cam for shifting.