Coil wire is worn but the wire itself is intact...possible loss of resistance resulting in coil overheating? gas problem maybe? fuel filter is clean,fuel is clean...wtf?
SOURCE: Power Loss at around 3000 rpm
are the carbs balanced correctly and are you sure that all of the jets are clean. if not try it, it might work. sluggish throttle response is normally to do with the carbs.
SOURCE: the bike shuts off going down the road then it
I am not sure but you may have a look at your fuel line location. Sounds like the fuel line(s) may be getting hot after riding awhile creating a vapor lock in the line.
SOURCE: cbr 600 f3 will not start
wow, 7 years without use! try to check if the fuel pump motor is still working... also check the fuel lines if its clogged.. I hope you get your bike up and running again... feel that adrenaline rush when going 100+mph.. hehehe.. have a good one bro...
SOURCE: when start go to rev it just dies
Remove the throttle stop adjuster and the air screw adjuster and spray carb cleaner in the holes.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Turn the pilot screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Check the float level. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower.Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Adjust the idle speed with the Throttle stop screw. This process should get you back on the road. A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!
SOURCE: Honad bogging down when accelerating.
Since 'the bike has been sitting for a while', I would suggest you will need to service the carb as old fuel can leave a residue and partially block the jets etc.It would still be good to check the condition of the airfilter, and replace if need be, but the air filter is unlikely the problem.
please leave fair comment if I have helped you
thanks
Are the plugs installed because without compression you will not get ignition/spark.
Are there any codes set???
Is the ignition fuse okay??? Is ECM fuse okay?
Of course first you need power to the coil which should be there whenever the ignition and run switches are on if so see below:
Are the plugs installed
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
If you have spark, it sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad.
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
If you have spark, it sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad.
A lot of guessing with no model year. I would not be afraid to start off with a set of new plugs either.
PLEASE post a comment to update, give more information AND if you get an answer so others can benefit.
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