When i apply the choke and start the bike, choke works good, but when the bike is warmed up the choke will not open completely. if i push on the end of the choke rod(four carbs connected together with common rod). rpms will go back to idle but will not stay there. when the throttle is moved or it seems that just the vibration of the engine will apply the choke a small amount( will raise rpm's to about 2k ) I can not seem to find any reason for it. thanks, ron
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That bike has 4) 36mm Mikuni carbs. Most likely they are stopped up. If you have been running U.S. Fuel with ethanol added this is not good for the carbs. Or most likely it was sitting for the winter, and the carbs got stopped up. If you have the carbs cleaned out, this will fix your problem. Keep me updated, and good luck. P.S. if a shop does this work it will be expensive, its not a hard job just time consuming.
My stock '90 DR650RS needs to be started with a set procedure, generally NO THROTTLE when kicking over. I had same issue as you but reset air screw at exactly one and a half turns out and idle (warm) at 1200 revs.
Cold start: Hold de-comp on and kick over with 1/4 throttle, release throttle, pull choke and kick over once with de-comp still on. Then, turn ignition on, NO throttle, no choke, apply de-comp and kick over...let idle for about 10 seconds before grabbing throttle.
When hot: just kick over with hand well clear of throttle. (I use the handlebar cross brace for support)
This took me ages to work out but has been foolproof ever since, even after a spill in the dirt or a sudden stall in traffic.
I use premium Un-leaded fuel and stock NGK plugs with stock Mikuni carb and jets. I use two different exhausts (stock twin muffler and an alloy CZR single pot) and starting is identical procedure for both. (I only change the jets with exhausts)
Possibly the choke is getting stuck internally, Even thoug the leaver may be in the closed (normal) position, it may be sticking internally. Try removing the choke and cleaning the passage with some carb cleaner, then replace the lever. The bike could run with a partially cloged choke but would be tough to start when warm due to too much fuel. Another thing to check, when it is hard to start, just after kicking it over a few times, remove the spark plug and see if it is wet with gas. My guess is that's it's soaked. Good luck.
your engine will **** in an average of almost a teaspoon of dust an hour of running without a airfilter on. this dust wears out the rings in your engine and everything else it touches in your engine. Lower compression and partially clogged jets lower the vaccum that your carbs pull in. Your bike should have a vaccum operated petcock that allows the fuel into your carbs. My guess is that you have low vaccum pressure. You might just need to replace a vaccum line or a petcock. Try pulling off the vaccum line from the front of the second carb and sucking on it until you see the fuel line fill up a little (don't worry, gas doesn't go threw the vaccum line so you won't get a mouth full of gas). Once you see the line about half full of gas or better. Try starting it up without the choke (engine should already be warm). The reason why I think this might be the problem is because when you choke a engine on these carbs, you increase the vaccum in the lines. Let me know if when it is warm, before you start it, if it already has about half of the gas line filled up. Good luck and let me know how it works out.
The stock harley choke plunger will not work on a Mikuni carb! It causes the carb to run rich all the time! You can go to a GOOD Indy in your area and order the Mikuni plunger. It is listed in the DRAG book
sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim