Question about 2003 BMW K 1200 LT

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Rear brake disc is loose.

What steps do I need to take in order to get at the rear disc to tighten it up?

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You may not need to. Many of the newer bikes incorporate a "floating disc", the purpose of this to eliminate disc drag in the event the disc warps. Check to see if the disc has special rivets or shoulder screws that secure it. The disc should have about .040" or 1mm of free play.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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How to replace rear brake pads 2002 softtail ?


If present, remove right saddlebag.
Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap. As the pistons are pushed back into the caliper, fluid level may rise more than 1/8 in. (3.2 mm). You may have to remove fluid to allow for this.
Loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins (12 pt/0.25 in.).
Pry the inside pad back. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull pad pins part way until the inside pads drop free. Note the pad's original orientation for replacement purposes.
Install pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Install new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed. Curved portion of pad must face upward.
Install pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click. Do not fully tighten at this time.
Pump brake pedal lever to move inside pistons out until they contact inside brake pads.
Pry the outside pad back. Pry between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Verify that inside pads are captured between brake disc and pistons. Completely remove pad pins to free outside brake pad. Note the pad's original orientation for replacement purposes.
Install new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed. If the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall. Curved portion of pad must face upward.
Install both pad pins through holes in inner and outer
brake pads. Tighten to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).

Jun 03, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

Remove rear wheel on 2012 flhtc harley


To remove a 2012 TOURING rear wheel FIRST remove the saddlebags, then raise the wheel with a suitable lifting device and rotate the wheel and inspect the wheel bearings. THEN remove left side muffler, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX, FLTRX), remove the left side lower saddlebag support rail and if ABS equipped remove the cable strap to releasethe rear wheel speed sensor cable from the rear brake hose and at no time ever left any magnetic force field exist or be close to the speed sensor or it will be ruined, remove the rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard or otherwise appropriately support it, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, hold the weld nut on the left side of the axle and loosen the cone nut on the right side of the axle using an AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIM's or H-D (HD- 47925), remove the cone nut and the adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the left side of the axlecounterclockwise until the wheel is loose, remove the axle from the left side of the motorcycle, catch all of the external spacer(s), caliper bracket, and rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) as the axle is removed, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear fork, move wheel forward enough so that you can and slip the drive belt off of the compensator sprocket, if needed remove the brake disc from hub and be careful that the drive sprocket does not fall off and get damaged as you remove the wheel from the bike, mark the wheel and the disc for re-installation in the same orientation.

To install a 2012 TOURING rear wheel you will need FASTENER TORQUE VALUEs. The brake disc (rear) screws are 30-45 ft-lbs 41-61 Nm; (Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws because re-using these can result in torque loss and always reinstall a brake disc in its original orientation); the rear axle cone nut (preliminary - 15-20 ft-lbs 20-27 Nm) (Final 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm ) ; Brake caliper (rear)mounting fasteners 43-48 ft-lbs 58.3-65.1 Nm. If the brake disc was removed from the wheel ALWAYS reinstall it in the same orientation with the wheel as when it was removed and ALWAYS use NEW attaching screws and tighten them in a crosswise pattern to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), verify that the sprocket is square to and fully seated in the bowl area of the wheel, place the wheel into the rear fork with the drive sprocket installed, install the belt over the drive sprocket and then slide the wheel back to take up the slack, seat the brake caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear fork, apply a light coat of wheel bearing type grease (H-D suggest silver anti-seize compound but this technician finds almost all seized, corroded axles were lubricated thus so do as you feel best) to the axle to the bearing bores and to the bore of the spacer sleeve, slide the axle through the left side of rear fork, the thin external spacer, the sprocket and into the wheel hub out the other side of the wheel hub and through the rear wheel speed sensor if ABS equipped and if ABS equipped ensure that the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the rear wheel speed sensor are on the outboard side or through the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the brake caliper bracket, and the right side of the rear fork, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and with the adjuster cam section forward, install the adjuster cam on the right end of the axle, apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE (H-D Part No. 98960-97) to the inboard side of the cone nut but NOT the threads, install the cone nut on axle finger tight only, if ABS equipped route the speed sensor cable forward and outboard of the brake caliper bracket, continue forward following the top of the rear fork, rotate the speed sensor in a counterclockwise direction until the index pin makes contact with the brake caliper bracket, tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ft lbs (20-27 Nm), install the brake caliper and tighten its screws to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), secure the rear wheel speed sensor cable to the brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8mm) in front of the brake hose crimp, adjust the drive belt using a belt tension gauge, final tighten the cone nut to 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm, install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on the right side of the axle, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers, install the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install the left side muffler and tighten its fasteners to 96-144 in-lbs 10.9-16.3 Nm,depress the rear brake pedal a number of times to set the brake pads properly against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and THEN road test the vehicle.

May 28, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How do you replace the rear brake caliper on a 2006 hd sportster


Start with a suitable container placed under the rear caliper brake line banjo fitting to catch any brake fluid that may leak out. NEVER reuse brake fluid. Use only Dot 5 Brake Fluid in a 2006 XLH motorcycle. NEXT remove the banjo bolt and both washers to detach the rear brake line from the brake caliper and throw away the washers, remove the pad pin plug, unscrew and remove the brake pad pin, remove the brake pads, unscrew and remove the caliper bolt pin, slide the brake caliper on the rear bolt pin away from the brake disc as far as possible. THEN with an open end wrench unscrew the mounting bracket bolt pin from the caliper mounting bracket and lift the brake brake caliper straight up and away from the brake disc and the caliper bracket.

LUBRICATING THE REAR CALIPER BOLT PINS AND BOOTS
FIRST apply about 0.4 g of G40M BRAKE GREASE inside the caliper bushing boot and the caliper pin boot and inside the boot lip to prevent sticking between the boots and the bolt pins and insert the mounting bracket bolt pin into the caliper bushing boot.

INSTALLATION
Before installing the caliper ensure that the retainer bracket is properly installed on the mounting bracket, then apply a small amount of LOCTITE 272 THREADLOCKER to the threads of the mounting bracket bolt pin, place the rear caliper assembly onto the mounting bracket and using an open end wrench thread the mounting bracket bolt pin into the caliper mounting bracket and tighten it to 87-130 in-lbs (9.8-14.7 Nm). THEN apply a small amount of LOCTITE 272 THREADLOCKER to the threads of the caliper bolt pin, slide the caliper bolt pin through the front mounting hole in the caliper, carefully insert the bolt pin shaft into the caliper pin boot in the mounting bracket and screw the bolt pin into caliper and tighten it to 15-18 ft-lbs (20.4-24.6 Nm).
NOTE that the brake caliper housing has a positive stop for banjo fitting and so when tightening the banjo bolt into the brake caliper you will need to rotate the banjo fitting clockwise until it contacts the positive stop.
THEN position a new washer onto each side of the hydraulic brake line banjo fitting, insert the banjo bolt through the washers and fitting into the caliper housing and tighten it to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm). THEN insert the brake pads into the caliper with the friction material on the pad towards the brake disc and with the curved portion of the pad fitting into the recessed area of the caliper and the brake pad front mounting tab fitting into its slot in the caliper mounting bracket. THEN press the brake pads tightly up and against the brake pad spring and install the brake pad pin but if the pin does not easily fit in ensure that you are suing the correct brake pads and not two identical pads, that the brake pad spring is oriented correctly, that the brake pad front mounting tabs are properly seated in the slots in the mounting bracket and that the brake pads are correctly pushed tight up against the brake pad spring BEFORE the brake pad pin is installed. AND THEN tighten the brake pad pin to 131-173 in-lbs (14.8-19.6 Nm). THEN install the brake pad pin plug and tighten it to 18-25 in-lbs (2.0-2.9 Nm). THEN with the rear brake master cylinder reservoir in a level position verify the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If necessary and with the bike upright and not resting on its jiffy stand remove the rear brake master cylinder reservoir cap and add sufficient new D.O.T. 5 BRAKE FLUID to the reservoir to cause the fluid to reach the upper fluid level mark, but do not exceed this mark. THEN verify the proper operation of the master cylinder relief port because a plugged or otherwise blocked relief port could cause the brakes to drag or stick on. Do this by pressing against the rear brake caliper to push the caliper piston back into its bore and push brake fluid back through the master cylinder and into the reservoir. THEN pump the brake pedal until the caliper piston pushes the brake pads out against the brake disc and firm pressure is returned to the brake system.THEN turn ignition switch ON and pump the brake pedal to verify correct operation of the brake lamp and test ride the motorcycle at low speed to safely test the brake system. If the brakes feel at all soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm, hard pedal and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to become conditioned to the brake disc.


Replace brake pads at any time the brake pad friction material on either the front or rear caliper is worn to 0.04 in. (1.02 mm) or less above the backing plate and always replace both pads in a caliper as a set.

The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc and it must be replaced if and when it is badly scored or worn past the minimum thickness. Maximum brake disc lateral runout and warpage is 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.

May 21, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster

1 Answer

Rear brake replacement 2003 FLHT


The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc. Maximum brake disc lateral runout or warpage is 0.008 inch (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.
Replace brake pads if the friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.04 inch (1.02 mm) thick or less.

To remove the rear brake pads begin by removing the right side saddlebag, loosen both pad pins but do not remove them or installation of the new pads will be more difficult than needs to be, remove the rear master cylinder reservoir so you can se the fluid level as you push the pads and the pistons back as the level ma rise too much when the pistons are seated fully in their bores and you may have to see this and remove excess fluid, pry the inside pad back pushing the pistons fully into their bores using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc. THEN when the pistons have been fully retracted pull the pad pins part way out until the inside pad drops free and note the orientation of the pad so that you can easily install the new pad in the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle, install the new pad and install but do not tighten the pad pins, then pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside pistons out until they
they contact the inside brake pad, then using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc pry the outside pad back in order to push those pistons fully into their bores, verify that the inside pad is captured between the brake disc and the pistons, completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. note the orientation of the pad before it falls out and install a new outside brake pad using the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle and if the inside pad moved during the previous step reinstall it. Replacing one pad at a time keeps the anti-rattle spring in place and so if you wish to replace the spring you will have to remove both pads to remove and replace it. THEN inspect the pad pins for unacceptable wear/grooving and replace if and as necessary and install the two pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3- 22.6 Nm). THEN pump the brake pedal to extend the pistons and move the brake pads out against the brake disc. THEN check that the brake fluid is at the proper level about 1/8 inch down from the top of the reservoir and add NEW D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, if necessary, install the master cylinder reservoir cover and tighten the cover screws to 6-8 inlbs(0.7-0.9 Nm), install the right side saddlebag, turn on the ignition/Light Key Switch and observe proper operation of the brake light, safely test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed them until you get a firm, hard pedal. Allow the new pads to properly wear in to the disc by not doing hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km).

May 19, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra...

1 Answer

How do i change rear brakes pads on a 2002 hd fxdwg ?


DO NOT REMOVE THE WHEEL AND DO NOT SPLIT THE CALIPER.

After servicing the brakes in any way and before moving the motorcycle always pump the brakes to build brake system pressure and move the pistons and pads out against the brake rotor.

First remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and check the fluid level because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level will rise and you do not want it to overflow the reservoir and spill out and to avoid this you must remove sufficient fluid.
Second, loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins with a 12 point .025 inch socket wrench.
Thirdly pry the inside pad back using steady pressure and a sturdy scraper or large screw driver or similar suitable tool, prying between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Fourthly, once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out part way only until the inside pads drop free.Do not completely pull the pad pins out from the caliper at this time because completely removing the pad pins at this time will cause you unnecessary difficulty during re-assembly. ALSO carefully note and remember each pad's original orientation for so you can put the new pads into the correct position and orientation in the caliper. Note that the front left, and the front right (if the front right is present) and all of the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. Install the pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Fifthly install the new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed (with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle.
Sixthly install the pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click but do not fully tighten them at this time.
Next pump the brake pedal lever to move the inside pistons out until they contact the inside brake pads and then pry the outside pad back to push the caliper pistons back into their bores and verify that the inside pads have been captured between the brake disc and the pistons. At this point you can completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. Again note the pad's original orientation for replacement purpose and orientation
.While the pad pins are out inspect them for grooving and wear and measure the pin diameter in an unworn area, and then in the area of any grooving or wear, and if wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38mm), replace both pins.
THEN install the new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed and if the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall it with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of motorcycle.
THEN install both pad pins through holes in the inner and outer brake pads and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs which is (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both of the brake pads and verify the correct piston location against the pads.
THEN check the brake fluid level in master cylinder and fill it up to the correct level if necessary using ONLY D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 6-8
in-lbswhich is (0.7-0.9 Nm).
WHEN the bike is completely back together test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and also confirm that the brake light works properly and if the brakes feel at all spongy bleed them properly until a hard not spongy brake pedal is obtained. AND avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to condition to the brake rotors.

May 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

1999 harley roadking rear and front axle torque specs??


Use loctite on the threads of all parts. For the front, holding the axle with a tool in the hole, tighten the axle nut to 50 lbs.

If your bike has dual front disk brakes, you need to insert a 7/16 drill bit into the hole in the axle. This step is necessary to give the proper spacing to the brake discs. Loosen the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork. Move the fork so the drill bit rests snugly against the side of the fork. Now tighten the pinch bolt making certain the drill bit still contacts the side of the fork.The pinch bolt should get not more than 30lbs.

for the rear, the axle gets 60 lbs. If you loosened the shocks to make room for the wheel tighten those bolts to 35lbs.

I sure hope you kept all the spacers and washers in their correct positions.

Here's hoping that gets you back on the road.

Ride safe, ride longer.

May 11, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic...

1 Answer

My 96 Triumph Trophy lost rear brakes while I was driving. I pulled over and discovered the entire foot pedal and braking pedal was very loose. The arm bar that connects to the rear brake also had lots of...


the back brake leaver on the rear drum is fitted to a "spline" it may have sliped round if the bolt was not tight or inside the rear drum there is a "cam" that pushes the brake shoows onto the drum this may need looking at look at the rear leaver first,, if its sliped round just take it off and put ot back on further round the spline then re-ajust the brake rod!

Jul 19, 2010 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I need to find out how to properly remove the wheels from my '01' sportster 1200 xl. What are the best procedures?


First, you need a way to safely lift the bike off the ground so that there is no chance of it falling over. Lift the bike so that the wheel you're working on is just barely on the ground with no weight on it.

Let's take the front wheel first. Before you take anything off, look at the axle, spacers, speedo gear (if there is one) and everything else closely and remember how it looks. Next, take the nut of the end of the axle. Loosen the nuts on the clamp on the other side. Start sliding the axle out. As the axle comes out, take the spacers and either label them or lay them out so you can remember in which direction and order that they go back in. If your bike has a speedo drive on the front wheel, notice that the drive tang sits in a small slot on the wheel. When you go to put the wheel back on, do everything in reverse. Tighten the nut to 50 ft. lbs. and then tighten the two nuts of the clamp on the other side to 20 ft. lbs.

Rear wheel. Almost same as front wheel except you'll probably have to loosen the belt just a bit prior to sliding the axle out. Reinstall in the opposite order. Adjust tension on rear belt and align rear wheel straight in the swingarm. Tighten the rear axle nut to 50 ft. lbs.

When installing either wheel, you may have to spead the brake pads in order to get the disc started back up between them.

Double check all nuts, bolts, and test brakes on both wheels before riding. Failure to proper perform these procedures can result in serious injury or death. Don't hurt yourself because you forgot to tighten a nut.

Jun 16, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

2 Answers

Do I need to remove the rear tire on my 2003 harley davidson softail deuce to replace the brakes?


You do not have to remove the wheel according to the manual, but if you wish to remove the caliper you will need to remove the wheel....There are no caliper mounting bolts on the Deuce, the caliper is mounted through the rear axle. TO change the brake pages loosing the pad retaining bolts (2) then push the caliper gently towards the rotor and then pull it gently away from the rotor. This will free up enough space to get the new pads in. Remove the pad retention bolts and replace pads and tighten everything down.

Jun 13, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Deuce

1 Answer

How to change to rear tire


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler, on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

Feb 27, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

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