Question about 1991 Honda Pacific Coast

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Oil leaks at top of motor

I see oil draining down the motor and have been told that the cam plugs are usually the culprit. so
Is this something I can do myself and if so how many body panels have to be removed to get to the top of the engine? It looks like just the side pop outs and the "tank" have to go but does it require more?
Also how difficult is it in terms of the idea that a competent mechanic can do it, or leave it to a Honda tech who's has done them because they require too many tricks of the seasoned mechanic to pull off correctly.

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With the "tank cover" off, pull aside the rubber boot on the fiberglass engine cover until you see the rubber cam plugs on the left side of the engine cylinder head. Clean any oil residue from this area. Apply high heat and oil resistant RTV to that area with a putty knife or your finger. Let dry and no more leak.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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Oil leak on a '92 Geo Tracker. Installed an O Ring, but still leaking. Any suggestions?

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Leaking from where and how bad is the leak? If only minor, get under the vehicle and check for signs of leakage at the drain plug and around the oil filter - these are the most likely culprits. If not obvious, clean everything up, drive and look again.
If these places are not the source, (assuming this is a petrol model) look at the rear of the engine from the top and from underneath in case it is a leaking head or valley gasket

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My car keeps over heating engine oil milky and i have a leak

Oh no... I have bad news... you have coolant leaking into your engine oil. STOP DRIVING!!! You WILL seize up your motor. Depending on how badly you have over heated the engine will depend on how damaged your motor is. Could be just a seal like your head gasket (most likely), or you could have a cracked block. Let your vehicle sit and cool down, drain your oil taking a very close look at the first fluid to exit the drain plug. Water is heavier than oil. What I like to do is run it over a piece of cardboard, metal flakes will settle on the cardboard, any big chunks and you have an issue.

Apr 10, 2013 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Cannot get started after has started all summer changer spark plug and cleaned air filter Only problem is that also overfilled oil reservoir will that keep it from starting? If so how can i get some...

Hi pt--
If you are certain the oil is overfilled, then yes, this should be the problem. Single cylinder engines have little tolerance for excess oil in the crankcase. Since you're at it, you may as well change the oil in the mower while you have this all apart. In order to do this safely, be sure you have disconnected the spark plug wire from the top of the plug. You do not want the mower to start while you are under it. If you are unsure, ask someone who knows how to do this safely. You should also do this on a cool mower, as gasoline could leak from the tank or carburetor and pose a burning and fire risk. That said:

To change the oil on a single-cylinder lawnmower:
1) Gather materials.
--You'll need a pan or an old bucket to catch old oil, preferably one that has enough capacity for the old oil while also allowing the mower to be positioned with all four wheels on the ground.
--Some rags.
--A set of wrenches or a socket set.
--Two fresh quarts of new motor oil of the recommended viscosity for your particular lawnmower.
2) Disconnect the spark plug from the ignition wire. You'll see a cable running to the top of the spark plug. Grab it firmly at the boot that sits atop the plug and pull firmly. If it doesn't come off easily, be sure you are pulling at the right spot.
3) Tip the mower either backwards or on its side and look underneath the cutting deck. Be careful, as gasoline may spill from the engine's tank. You should see a small square-head or hex-head plug directly below some point of the engine. That is the engine's oil-drain plug. CAUTION: You may need to rotate the cutting blade to gain access to this plug. Be aware that the blade can cut you and that if the mower starts now it can cause serious injury to yourself.
4) Locate the correctly sized wrench or socket that mates to the drain plug.
5) Using a correctly sized wrench or socket, carefully and slowly loosen the drain plug until it turns freely by hand.
6) Position your drain pan beneath the engine's drain plug.
7) Unscrew the drain plug by hand until the oil drains free. Setting the mower down on level ground with all four wheels will ensure the most old oil drains from the engine at this point. Go ahead and open the engine's oil fil cap at this time, as this also allows the oil to drain freely.
8) When the oil has stopped draining from the engine--usually a slow drip is ok--you can replace the drain plug by hand. Be sure the plug turns freely by hand--do not crossthread the plug as you will create a costly repair for yourself.
9) Tighten the plug snug--NOT samson tight--with the correct wrench or socket and wipe any oil present at the plug or surrounding area clean with a rag.
10) Remove the pan from below the mower and rest your mower on all four wheels.
11) Slowly fill the mower's cranckase to full with fresh motor oil. Often, less than a single quart is necessary. Go slow and do not overfill.
12) Tilt the mower backwards again and check for oil leaks at the plug. You may need to snug up the oil drain plug one more time before the first after-oil-change start.
13) Lower the mower, reconnect the spark plug, and start the mower. Let it run for about a minute and listen to the mower for any "bad" sounds. If you hear anything out of the ordinary, shut off the mower immediately and recheck the mower for abnormalities.
14) Shut the mower off.
15) Check the oil level. You may have to top off the fluid level again, as running the engine tends to let the fluids settle out.
16) Disconnect the spark plug once more.
17) Tilt the mower and check the drain plug one more time for leaks. Snug it up as necessary.
18) Let the mower back down to the ground and reconnect the spark plug to the ignition wire.
You should be ready to mow again. Remember to be aware of any oil drips as push the mower around after a recent change--that may indicate the plug is leaking. There is a great picture of what a mower's drain plug looks like in the link below. Just scroll down to the part where you see the picture labeled 'oil drain plug.'
--Hope this helps, Joe.

Oct 10, 2010 | Poulan "" Push Mower

1 Answer


Do you notice a puddle under the car? Or smoking when you shut it off? The rocker cover gaskets are the culprit. If you have the spark plugs in a well inside the rocker cover, the will fill up with oil and also leak out the back. You can replace the gaskets, a fairly easy job, you have to pull everything off the top of the engine to get the covers off. And they give you the new seals for the spark plug well with the gasket kit. They only go about 10 years, I replaced mine and they are starting to leak again. Hope this helps.

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How to change oil in poulan pro 650 series model hp-22 mower

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Apr 14, 2010 | Poulan Pro 22" Self Propelled High Wheel...

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Likely cams are beginning to seize in the head. Usually this is the result of carbon plugging the oil pump pickup screen or internal oil passages. Changing the pump will not fix this unless your pump is inside the oil pan with pickup attached. If bearing surfaces on cam are damaged, you may be able to restore oil pressure but likely have already done internal engine damage which may extend to crank bearings as well. Generally at this point I recommend a replacement engine or vehicle. I really don't like telling people this.
good luck

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Oil leak

Could be the cam seal. It is the only thing keeping oil in the motor between the head and calve cover. Usually they will stick to the cam on a cold morning and spinout of place and allow the oil to pass onto the side of the engine.

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1993 accord leaking a large quantitly of some fluid

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Sep 19, 2008 | 1993 Honda Accord

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