Question about 1997 Honda VF 750 C Magna

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Engine will turn over but will not continue to run

Adjusted idle screw to one and quarter turns to no effect
I check gas line, disconnected gas tank. Gas remains in line even when I continue to try and start. Is there a fuel filter inbetween gas tank and carburator? It may be in carburator I will need to clean and I need diagram for disassembling.

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The fuel filter is in the tank on top of petcock that bike has a vacum operated petcock(fuelvalve)if the vacum hose is bad no fuel flow check the back of the fuel valve for a small hose that goes to the manifold make sure it is good put vacum on the hose wile hooked to the fuel valve and make sure that gas runs out of the hose give me a rate please hope this helps

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Apache rtr engine doesn't stay running


Hi, Sheik the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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1 Answer

1998 triumph daytona turns on and idles fine, but as soon as i twist the throttle it turns off?! possible problems?I just replaced the fuel pump btw.


Hi, Tim the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

How can I set gas/air mix screw?


A good place to start is 2 and a half turns out and play about from there.
Screw the adjuster all the way in to a soft seating. DO NOT force it, just screw it gently until it seats itself gently otherwise you will damage the seat or screw face. Now start unscrewing it counting the turns. I count quarter turns and 10 quarters is 2 and a half.
Fire up the bike and let it warm up and idle. Turn the screw in a quarter and see if it runs better, if it does then this is your base point. If it runs worse, screw it back out a quarter to the original starting point and then screw it out a further quarter. If this is better then that becomes your base point. Basically the base point is the best current setting that you know of. Start working from this base point adjusting and noting the changes until you get the smoothest running. Always write down your settings as you alter them and you will remember where you are. Remember you can always start over again, just don't damage the seating.

Jan 19, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

1984 yamaha 200 ATC carborator troublshooting


1.5 to 2.5 depending on altitude. turn it all the way in and back it out to min first, if wont run smoothly continue out by quarter turns.
make slow adjustments and rev it up several times between adjustments to allow for idle settings and float response.

Jun 06, 2012 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Rebuilt all four carbs cleaned and replace needle and seat.Bike runs on choke at idle but will not excelerate,dies when you turn the throttle. feather the throttle past 3000 rpm and it will respond but...


the ajustment need to be set where they were originaly, needle position and mixture screw. the carbs are not suppling enofe fuel, was there any torn seals or diaphrams.

Mar 15, 2010 | 1985 Yamaha FJ 1100

1 Answer

Bike won't stay running


Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.

Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.

Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!



Apr 22, 2009 | Suzuki GS 500 F Motorcycles

2 Answers

Raptor 660 idles but no throtle response


Turn off the gas and remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Get a set of the stock NGK spark plugs your bike came with. Check for spark on each cylinder before installing the plugs.

Now go to the idle and air screws on the outside of each of the carbs. IMPORTANT > > GENTLY turn both screws all the way in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn the screws EXACTLY one and one half turns outward.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just synchronized and balanced your carbs.

PLEASE RATE THIS SOLUTION. Thanks!

Mar 28, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha XTZ 660

2 Answers

Engine cutting out with the choke off


Adjust your idle screw on your carb so that it gets more gas just sitting there at idle. Tighten the screw one and a quarter turn and then start the bike. Adjust the idle to where you think it sounds normal. If that doesnt work check your float in your float bowl, it might be stuck in the down position. Clean with some carb cleaner spray and make sure it moves freely before putting the float bowl back on, youll have to choke it or prime the carb again to get it started. All the choke does is let in more gas and oxegen so you might want to check how far the carbs close when you push the choke back in. Is it impeading any normal carb setting. Check that too. Good luck.

Dec 01, 2008 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 450 F

1 Answer

Idle speed and gas tank maintenance


Try starting it with the idle screw adjusted back to where it was with the old exhaust. Have you checked the plug? If the stock exhaust makes it overly rich the plug will foul quickly making starting much more difficult. You could try a light rubbing compound on the tank mine still proudly wears it's gasoline stains from my first refill. I tried wax too but it didn't work I guess it doesn't bother me enough to try to get rid of them.,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Enfield Bullet Machismo

1 Answer

Idle speed and gas tank maintenance


Try starting it with the idle screw adjusted back to where it was with the old exhaust. Have you checked the plug? If the stock exhaust makes it overly rich the plug will foul quickly making starting much more difficult. You could try a light rubbing compound on the tank mine still proudly wears it's gasoline stains from my first refill. I tried wax too but it didn't work I guess it doesn't bother me enough to try to get rid of them.,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 1998 Enfield Bullet 500

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