Engine will turn over but will not continue to run
Adjusted idle screw to one and quarter turns to no effect
I check gas line, disconnected gas tank. Gas remains in line even when I continue to try and start. Is there a fuel filter inbetween gas tank and carburator? It may be in carburator I will need to clean and I need diagram for disassembling.
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Re: engine will turn over but will not continue to run
The fuel filter is in the tank on top of petcock that bike has a vacum operated petcock(fuelvalve)if the vacum hose is bad no fuel flow check the back of the fuel valve for a small hose that goes to the manifold make sure it is good put vacum on the hose wile hooked to the fuel valve and make sure that gas runs out of the hose give me a rate please hope this helps
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Go back to the carburetor adjustment screws and snug them down gently. Do not use force on those screws or you'll damage the needle valve seats. Turn both screws out one and a quarter turns out and start the saw. The motor should stay running.... if not adjust the screws until it stays running. Turn one screw in until you hear the motor start to stall, then turn that screw out just a little bit. turn the other screw in until the saw starts to stall, then turn that screw out a little bit. Now if the saw bogs at full throttle, turn one screw out one quarter turn. See if the saw runs at full throttle... if not turn that same screw in to where it was and try the other screw the same way. If you're good, you can adjust the screw while the saw is running to get the best full throttle run. This is not an exact science, and it takes time and many adjustments to get the saw to idle and run at full throttle. Good luck... and have patience.
Kescorpio56: Check your throttle and choke settings. Something is causing the throttle plate in the carburetor to remain open or the governor is improperly set. I would reset the air/fuel mixture screws to one and a quarter turns out and back the idle screw all the way out. Make sure that the throttle cable operates the throttle properly and check the governor setting and reset the governor setting if needed. Start the engine and adjust from there. When the engine starts, adjust the idle screw until the engine idles. Adjust the fuel/air mixture screws for the best idle. Then run the RPM up and adjust the fuel/air mixture screws for the best run/idle combination. Don't forget to adjust the governor if the engine runs too fast or too slowly.
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. T is the idle speed screw and not critical--just back off about two turns CCW at first. Turn H and L jet screws CCW from stops 1-1/2 turns each--this should allow the engine to start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up--if the idle speed is too high or low, adjust the speed screw so that the engine continues to run, but the chain is not trying to turn. When warmed up, pull the throttle full on and adjust H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Proper final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L jet screw CW until the engine idles fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. If adjusted too far, the engine will 'gasp' when throttled. Set the idle speed screw to obtain the above conditions. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Be sure to have fresh fuel mix in the tank (50:1 ratio) and be sure to shake the container thoroughly just before adding fuel to the tank to prevent oil starvation. Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then turn each out CCW 1-1/2 turns. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H jet needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Proper adjustment is when the engine will 4-stroke unloaded, but will 2-stroke immediately when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L jet needle CW for better idle, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the engine continues to run, but the chain doesn't try to move. Hope this helps!
Turn both H and L screws CW to stops (lightly), then CCW out 1-1/2 turns each. This a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on and adjust H CW until the engine starts to run faster, but continues to 4-stroke. Proper adjustment is 4-stroking when unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L CW until the engine idles fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine will continue to run. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Was the carburetor disassembled when soaked and did you use compressed air to blow out all passages? If the carburetor jet screws have been moved, preset them as follows: Turn both H and L screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW each screw 1-1/2 turns. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H CW until the engine speeds up somewhat but 4-stroking. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Allow to idle and adjust L CW until the engine runs fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
Need to change the fuel filter. It is inside of the fuel tank on the end of a small gas line. You need to carefully fish it out of the tank. Usually a piece of stiff wire with a hook bent on the end of it should do it or possibly a pickup tool. Then I'd recommend readjusting the carburetor. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. turn the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. Do the same for the high adjustment screw.
If you did nothing to the carburetor adjustments, are using a fresh (1.5 months or less) fuel mix with the same fuel/oil ratio (I recommend 50:1 = 1 gal super not regular gas to 2.6 oz quality 2 cycle engine oil), are operating at the same elevation, and the air filter is clean, there is a reason your saw is acting up. Most often it is a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed. Typical fuel system Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrXpU70Hmi0
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, the output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou
Many chainsaws have the fuel tank mounted very close to the engine cylinder. In the process of filling the tank over and over a lot of mixed gas is spilled and some of it runs down on the cylinder head. Being mixed gas and having oil in it, it leaves an oily residue. This oil will seem to collect a massive amount of sawdust over time. The sawdust coating the cylinder causes it not to cool down really well and the increased heat can cause the fuel in the tank to boil if it's bad enough. If the vent in the fuel cap is plugged and the gas in the tank gets hot it tends to pressurize the gas tank. This can cause the saw to flood out or load up.
Change the gas cap or clean out the vent filter. If you can get to the cylinder clean all excess oily sawdust from the cooling fins.
If you get the saw running your probably should readjust the mixture settings.
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. At idle turn the screw in or clockwise until the rps starts to decrease. Then start turning it out till you hit max idle rpms. Turn screw back in a quarter to half turn and it should be idling smoothly. Be careful here and get someone to hold saw if necessary but hold in throttle to full speed and do the same with high adjustment screw. turn it in till rpm starts to drop then back it out until you get to max rpm and it won't go any higher then turn it back in a half a turn.