My 04 nightrain. Is making a clacking sound Comming from near the front of the primary. When i opened. The inspection. Cover it appears. There is about 2inches of play in the primary chain..would the compensator. Nut. Or. Bolt have anything. To do with this

I would inspect the front roller to make sure something isn't stuck to it.

Of course there is an inspection cover on the primary. It is called the clutch inspection cover or derby cover. The primary drain plug is right below the center of this cover and it is a 5/8 inch hex head with a 1/4 inch Allen socket in the middle of the plug head also. You fill the primary through this cover opening also and ONLY up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring.

There is not really a negative primary coil wire per se BUT ...............

The 2006 carbureted models have a three wire 83B connector with #3 wire being BE/O Front coil wire carrying the primary current supplied from the #2 W/BK wire to and through the front coil primary circuit to the ECM (#2 wire being W/BK and supplying current from the Stop Run Switch to both front and rear coil primary circuits at the same time) and the #1 wire being Y/BE Rear coil wire carrying primary current supplied through the W/BK wire to and through the rear primary wire #1 to the ECM. So, current comes to both coil segments (front and rear) simultaneously, passing both primary windings by two separate wires to ground through/in the ECM until the ECM opens each circuit independently of the other and thereby collapse the current in each primary winding into each secondary winding at the appropriate time to fire the respective spark plug.

The 2006 EFI models have a four wire 83B connector with wire "A" being Y/GN Power supply wire; wire "B" being GY/BE and the ION sense wire to the ECM; wire "C" being Y/BE Rear primary coil segment and Wire "D" being BE/O Front primary coil segment. Again current comes to the coil through the Y/GN "A" wire and passes through the front primary circuit to the ECM via the BE/O wire until the ECM opens the circuit which collapses the front coil primary current into the front coil secondary circuit inducing a high voltage current which then bridges the gap and fires the front spark plug and through the rear coil segment primary circuit to the ECM via the Y/BE wire until the ECM opens the circuit which collapses the rear primary current into the rear secondary circuit inducing a high voltage current which then bridges the gap and fires the rear cylinder spark plug.

I hope this answers your question whichever 2006 Softail model you have.

Left side usually the primary case outer cover is a chrome or polished aluminum case cover that the jiffy stand will come up to or against when it is up in riding position. Clutch cable enters in front of clutch inspection cover (derby cover) which is secured with four T-27 Torx screws. You would add fluid here and only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. There is another small cover plate in the more forward portion of the primary case cover and this is where you would inspect the primary chain tension.

we call this part an air damper and if the sound is comming from it when it opens or closes you will need to replace the damper

Now, I'll address the primary chain but the warranty is between you and your dealer. From my experiences with the dealers, don't get your hopes up though. Now, find the drain plug on the bottom side of the primary back near the derby cover. Drain the primary. If you have to take the shifter and the floorboard off to get the primary cover off, do so. Then take the bolts out of the primary and take the cover off. You'll have to take the bolts out of the oval inspection cover to get the primary off. Remove the bottom bolt and the rear bolt of the inspection cover. Once you get the cover off, look for anything obviously wrong in there. If the primary has a conventional chain tensioner, check the up and down movement in the top run of the chain. It should have 3/4 to 7/8 inch up and down play with the engine cold. If the chain has an automatic adjuster in it, the chain will be tight. Look to see if you see anything that the chain might be rubbing. Look at the underside of the inner primary at the top just above the engine sprocket for signs of rubbing. See if the chain is running in the middle of the tension shoe at the bottom of the primary.

Good Luck
Steve

Two places could be leaking. Primary cover leak on either side. Outside gaskets are not very difficult to replace. There is a oil seal on the backside that requires the removal of the inner primary. This is a difficult job for the amateur hobbist mechanic but it can be done. You'll need a lot of tool including a torque wrench that will torque a left hand threaded nut and one that will torque to 150 foot pounds. You'll also need a primary locking bar.

So, as you can see, if it's anything other than an outer primary cover, inspection cover, or derby cover leak, it's probably best to take it to a shop. If you do this, have them pull and inspect the front belt drive pulley while they're in there. Also, replace the transmission main shaft seal (small one) the final drive gear seal (the big one) and the "quad seal" behind the spacer for the pulley (like an o-ring). And replace the oil seal on the backside of the inner primary cover. Good Luck

Toner cartridge bound-up?

Heli coil is the way to go with this but be very careful, you may also be able to spin a tap and dye thru it to recut/clean the existing threads or a slightly larger 1 to re cut the thread

Sounds like a bad motor, you have a years warranty on this, take it in for warranty repair. You will void the warranty if you mess with it.