Question about 2001 BMW R 1150 GS

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Manifold gets heated red

Is this any common feature kind or could it be like a problem? looks VERY hot

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The problem you are having is most likely due to tight valves. Your exhaust should never get "red" unless you are running a turbo on the bike, in which case that is completely normal.
I would first check the exhaust system for blockages, these usually happen around couplers or in the diffuser in the rear of the exhaust. This is much like a catalytic converter going bad. Put your hand at the rear and make sure you are feeling good pressure coming out of the exhaust. I'd recommend you do this when the engine is not hot so you don't burn your hand. If you feel good pressure coming from the exhaust then you most certainly have tight exhaust valves and this need to be addressed very soon or you will cause serious damage to the engine.
Best of luck!

Posted on Dec 12, 2008


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Catalytic converter

The exhaust downpipe is glowing red with heat?
To be honest, that may be fuel-air /and or cylinder head problem. A downpipe gets very hot, yes, but they don't glow red.

A faulty oxygen sensor can cause the catalytic converter to overheat - with disastrous results.

If you're not sure what you're doing don't mess around with things. get somebody who knows what they are doing to look at your car and give you an opinion

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How to wire your new themostat

0a9962f0-eea8-41fa-881b-a1074d6aa966.pngThe heater has a transformer that steps down the line voltage supplied either 115v or 230v to 24 volts,a safe voltage to use for the thermostat's control voltage and a voltage which requires no license to install.
The most important thing to remember before you begin is that ,
Red or R is the "hot leg" of the 24 volts provided by the transformer and
Common or C is the "neutral leg" of the 24 volts provided by the transformer and
Common is the side of power which EVERY 24 volt circuit will terminate or return to in completing the circuit, thus the "Common " designation, note after each circuits device, be it AC or Heat or Fan,every 24 volt circuit returns to Common or it's circuit is not completed.
Every electric circuit ,regardless of voltage or polarity requires a device ,
without a device in a circuit, upon energizing that circuit it will be a direct short!
Red to Common, this will blow the fuse or worse the transformer if not protected by a fuse which some are not. If you have a device in the circuit you can energize a circuit, my point being do not let Red touch Common and as Common is grounded at the transformer, do not let Red touch any metal, as it is likely grounded too, so turn off power before doing anything.
Note the color of the wiring attached to your existing thermostat's terminals and make a diagram so you will not forget.
The new thermostat may have different terminals or more that you will not be using.
All thermostats have an R or Red terminal, it may be RC and an RH 2 separate terminals designating RC as red cool and RH as red heat.
There 2 terminals RC and RH are for 2 transformer systems which are obsolete old GE units so if you do have both RC and RH use a small jumper wire and connect the 2 terminals and wire the Red "hot leg" from the transformer to either RC or RH it will not matter if both are jumpered together, otherwise you will only have cooling or heating but not both available.
The Red hot leg of the 24 volts enters the thermostat on R and most modern thermostats are parasitically powered meaning they derive power from the heaters transformer, as a result the Common 24 volt neutral leg must be ran to the thermostat.
Note, the new NEST thermostats say they do not require Common to be wired, however 50% of the time the NEST will go dead in time and require a Common wire be used to power the thermostat satisfactorily.
Upon a call for heat the switch between the Red and White circuit closes making white electrically hot with the 24 volts which it sends out the white wire to the heater gas valve etc and return to common to complete the heat circuit.
Upon a call for AC the switch to Yellow closes and as you will notice the Fan switch on the thermostat has an AUTO and ON switch, in the AUTO position, upon a call for AC
the Yellow becomes hot with the 24 volts and as a result of the AUTO switch being closed, the indoor blower will automatically cycle as required.
The fan control for ON fan or AC is High speed, the fan control for heat is Low speed and controlled by a time or temperature delay at the initiation and termination of the heat cycle, this is to eliminate cold air from blowing until the heater warms up and upon termination it extracts the residual heat to not overheat the unit and be most efficient.
Green is the Fan circuit, it is the High speed fan and only used for heating with electric heaters as resistive heat strips or heat pumps and will be controlled in both heat and cool modes by the thermostat, this is designed in to the thermostat or part of the thermostats set up and programming if a universal type thermostat.
Common as explained is there to power the thermostat it being the other side of 24 volt power opposite from the red 24 volt hot leg.
Heat pumps will have an O and a B terminal, this gets the Orange wire on O if the reversing valve is energized in cool mode, if you get heat in the cool mode switch the Orange wire from O and put it on B, B is energized in the Heat mode.

This was not written for just heat pumps or any brand I had to pick a specific brand however this applies to all brands and types gas furnaces , heat pumps and electric heat.

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Model gew9200lw1. heats on lower setting, but not higher setting.

Hello Jean;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

If the high temperature limit switch was bad you would not get any heat at all.

I do not believe you have a control problem nor a heater problem.

What you have is a air flow problem. You are plugged up with lint in your hot air distribution manifold. You control is trying to get up to temperature but can not because not enough hot air is flowing.
This is a very common problem where people have to run the dryer 2 or 3 times to get the clothes dry.

The good news is it is a easy fix. In the back of your dryer is a hot air distribution manifold. It is held on by about 7 screws. You air blower in your dryer is at the bottom of this manifold. Un screw the manifold and pull straight out.
1.) Unplug your dryer.
2.) Remove the manifold screws.
3.) Pull the manifold straight out.
4.) Clean out the bottom of the manifold that is plugged up.
5.) Clean the fan wheel face and rotate to ensure it is free.

6.) Remove the vent connection from the dryer to the outside wall. Inspect and clean.

If the problem still exist please call me, Peter, Glen Burnie, MD 443-306-1362

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ab302475-b998-41c7-9c7c-4e106b68e0be.pngGo to your thermostat and look at the FAN switch, it will be in the AUTO position typically.
Set the FAN switch to the ON setting,
by doing this if the fan motor operates you know that the High voltage & the low voltage (24 volt control power) are present.
This saves you from having to go to the breaker panel and checking / resetting the breaker as well as checking the Transformer and automotive type 3 amp control circuit fuse (generally on the circuit board).

If you do not get any fan operation by switching the fan switch to the ON setting, you then will have to determine if the breaker, transformer and aforementioned 3 amp fuse are all good.

You will need a volt meter to test further.
At the thermostat remove the cover thus exposing the thermostats sub base and assorted circuits/wiring.

RED or R
Red is the 24 volt "hot leg" of 24 volt power which originates at the transformer. Red enters the thermostat on the Red or R terminal, some thermostats will have an RC and an RH terminal, these are jumpered together on single transformer systems as they are for Red Cool and Red Heat, without a jumper wire on RC and RH, the Red "hot leg" of the 24 volt control voltage will only energize the terminal its wired to, some stats are battery powered and do not use the transformers 24 volt power (parasitically) to power the thermostat.
If the thermostat is powered by the transformers 24 volt power, there will be a "COMMON" wire on the common terminal of the thermostat, this is the other side of the 24 volt power from the transformer, the side opposite from RED the 24 volt "hot leg"
Common is called common as its the side of power that EVERY
24 volt circuit terminates, or completes its circuit, thus the COMMON designation.
During a Heat call the 24 volt hot leg is sent out via the white/heat terminal to the gas valve etc.
So between terminals Common & White , it should read 24 volts during a call for heat.
Same for Fan which is the Green or G terminal,
Same for Cool which is the Yellow or Y terminal.
If you have no power to these terminals when calling for heat or cool or fan then yes the thermostat is defective and requires replacement.
DO NOT let the RED wire touch ground or the COMMON terminal, this is a direct short and blows the fuse or transformer
if not equipped with fuse protection.

Normally you should read 24 volts between RED and COMMON

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Potterton Suprema status light.


Are you getting Hot water and Heating?

The reason i ask is because I don't think you have a problem.

On this boiler it has a 'pump over run' thermostat incorporated into it, this ensures heat escapes from the boiler by using the pump to cool it down.

If you are getting hot water and heating, leave it well alone, if you reset the boiler this can have adverse effects on the boiler and evenually cause malfunction.

However, if you find that you are not getting Hot Water or Heating, then the most common fault on this boiler is the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) it is the 'brain' of the boiler and the most common fault on this make. (£160 + vat)

I hope this helps,


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