I bought my bike and did the break in period as i was told. I rode for about 2500 mile and then got stationed in Italy. I had to drain all the oil and fuel before shipping. First how much oil does the bike hold and what kind should i put in. Second and most important do i have to go through another break in period or can i treat it as normal?
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Sounds like water / oil emulsification. Is your bike water cooled or air cooled? If it's water cooled then you may have a gasket leak. If it's air cooled then you may not be riding the bike enough to get a good temp up inside the engine which would drive off the condensation inside the crank case / sump thereby leading to the emulsification. You say you rode an easy mile - certainly that's not enough to get the temp up enough to drive off the water. Was the bike running ok? Was it accelerating and braking ok? If so then try a cautious longer run and keep an eye on your levels. If in doubt consult a bike shop.
Are you sure you're checking the engine oil. On your RK, the oil dipstick is a large knob about two inches in diameter located on the corner of the transmission. Now, the transmission dipstick is a small dipstick on a plug that you take out with a hex key or Allen wrench. I cannot understand how your engine oil could possibly turn that color in a short ten mile ride. I've seen this on transmissions that have not been serviced regularily. Moisture from condensation gets into the transmission and mixes with the oil. When the bike sits, the oil and water seperate and the water will cause rust to form on metal parts. When the bike is run again, the rusty water again mixes with the transmisson oil and makes it look like "choclate milk". I have never seen engine oil do this even though I've seen engines that have been overheated to the point of destruction. It sounds like water in the oil. If it is water, I have no idea how it's getting into the engine unless someone is putting it in there intentionally. I had one guy that kept getting water in his fuel tank. He blamed the gas station where he bought his fuel. Turned out it was his 5 year old son filling Daddy's gas tank up with the water hose. Check that oil again. Ask some of the parts houses around the area if they know someplace that will analyze the oil and tell you what the contaminate is. This is a new one on me. Let me know what you find at email@example.com , please.
Regrettably, a small oil leak from the air cleaner assembly is "normal". This is because the EPA requires all crankcase emissions to be routed to the intake system so that it can be burned in the engine. The result is that oil mist in the crankcase vented condenses in the air cleaner and eventually drips out.
The crankcase vent for your Sporty is in the heads. If you noticed, there are two large bolts that are hollow holding the air filter backing plate on. The crankcase vents into the air cleaner assembly through these two bolts. There is an "unbrella valve" in the rocker box center section that allows the air to flow one way but not the other. There are baffles in this area to keep the oil mist to a minimum but still there is some in the air coming out of the engine.
There are a few kits available on the aftermarket for re-routing this crankcase vent. You can direct the exit anywhere you wish using one of these kits. Most people just route the hose down and exit it under the bike just in front of the rear wheel.
When adding oil to your bike, only add the oil when the engine is hot. On your dipstick, you have two marks. The upper mark represents "FULL HOT" while the lower mark represents 'FULL COLD", Do not overfill. Check the level with the bike on the side stand.
sounds like he was right! it needs a tune up!...change plugs and wires replace old air filter and FUEL filter,... put in fresh gas along with some Sea foam from Autzone pour in 1/3 can to two gallons fuel and then push start the bike if you have to and get on it and ride ...it might take about 10-15 miles before you'll notice a difference.
It is not all that unusual for new engines to consume a slight bit more oil during the break-in period. Keep it topped off to the top of the range mark as much as possible, and I would recommend a change at the 500-mile mark, including filter.
hi no way all the guy wants is money any good guy has the right test gear and would test all the charging /starter compnants before replacing the whole caboose buy youself a small cheap volt meter £5/£8 check the battery voltage start motor needle should go up to around 14 put lights on needle should not drop if this is ok then rr and stator is ok stop motor leave lights on if voltage drops rapidly battery is us hope this helps merlinv12
I ride the same bike with 17,000 miles on it. I bought it new and it rode like a lumber wagon at first but gradually worn into a smoother ride. I never adjusted the front end but I always keep it greased and check the neck bearing every 10,000 miles with the bike off the ground. I look for any slop or binding when I swing the bars either way. Also grab the front wheel and try to give it a wiggle. Your HD dealer should help with any specific questions it you really feel the need to adjust it. Hope this helps..