Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Classic

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Fuel Pump(EFI)and lights non-functional, ignition o.k.

All fuses I know of are o.k.-bike will fire on starter fluid. Trouble started with a dead battery, but when I recharged, a series of flashes appeared on the panel light-happened only once. Did I accidentally activate some sort of anti-theft circuitry?

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  • lecturn_2000 Dec 11, 2008

    O.K., sorry about the brief description. Basically, after I let the bike's battery run down and tried to restart, I noticed a series of light flashes on the console. HD is equipped with an anti-theft device which disables the electronic fuel pump-I think the flashes were an error code indicating the ECM had lost a code or disabled the circuitry which controls the pump. (I did recharge the battery after trying to start with a low charge. The starter turns the engine over just fine, BUT the fuel pump does not operate-no sound, as is customary, and no gas on the plugs. The problem is not ignition related, as the bike starts and runs for a couple of seconds on starter fluid. So...if this is a correct analysis of the problem, I need to restore that ECM to its former state. I had hoped that simply recharging the battery would do the trick, but no luck. Harley dealerships have a gizmo they call a "Scanalyzer" which would probably tell someone in a minute if a "run" code needs to be restored, but, of course, I need to get the bike to a dealer for this one. I'm confident the problem is not mechanical- the bike ran flawlessly prior to sitting for a month or more w.o. being started. Trying to start with a low battery was not a good idea, I'd have to say. I do have a list of the error codes and a method of disabling the ECM (obtained from another site), but your input would most certainly be welcome. Thanks in advance,

  • Ifixitall Mar 14, 2009

    No power to fuel pump after sitting for a few months and tried to start with no/low fuel.  Ran for a few seconds (rough) and then nothing.  Cranks fine.  Battery was disconnected and charged.  Battery is good, all fuses good.  Traced power everywhere with the schematic.  All is good except power to fuel pump fuse which comes from the System relay.  Removed relay and verify it works fine.  ECM was disconnected as part of tracing the voltage.  Not sure if I need to somehow rest the ECM.  Used key FOB to set/unset the security system.  I'm thinking the ECM has disabled the fuel pump.  Pretty sure that might be the problem.  Anyone able to confirm this and how to re-enable the fuel pump circuitry.  Not really addressed in the owners manual or service manual.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    I have sent your request to Benimur and Rselvy. One of those two can help you out.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Contact expert Rselvy for a good solution, he is great on motorcyles.



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They do have the scanalyzer and it also has the ability of resetting your ECM back to operating condition. By default there is a tamper device in the ignition that will disable the bike. To my knowledge you must take it to a dealer to have the computer reset. The reason being is if you could DIY then there would be no reason to have the anti - theft device. Sorry for the bad news but you are right on target with whaat is wrong. Now for a work around in the meantime, perhaps you can buy a electric fuel pump and hard wire it from your battery, bypass the factory electronic one and use the new one until you can get the bike to the shop for the quick fix. It only takes them a few minutes to fix it. I would take your registration and proof of ownership because they are mandated by law to verify you are the owner. At least where I live they must do it.
Good luck!

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • Rob Selvy
    Rob Selvy Dec 12, 2008

    I sent this gentleman an answer last night. Let me know if this helped him or if he needs further assistance.


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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Appreciate the headsup Toyota ED. I had a discussion with an HD rider/shop owner here in my country and with your indulgence, may I share his thoughts and my inputs:

  • if it were alarm induced power shutdown to the fuel pump, most likely the starter button will also not work (depends on the model/version/region of intended use);
  • there was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the upgrade of the fuel pump. The updates would have a letter "A" after the part number;
  • there is a feature called "Storage Mode" involving the use of signal light switches and the key FOB. It might have been inadvertently activated;
  • if it were an alarm induced problem, there would be no spark and would be audible;
  • often found issue with similar symptoms is a corroded fuel pump relay or its terminals/connectors. Might as well clean the entire fuse/relay box and apply electrical grease.
And agree with TE that Rselvy would be in a better position to be of more information.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Fuel Pump(EFI)and lights non-functional, ignition o.k.

Check your relay for the fuel pump, make sure you are getting power to fuel pump connector (outside of tank). Check for fuel flow when pump is on, ( remove tank to fuel rail line from intake side)be carefull this results in a good fuel stream that may go everywhere. Oh yeah and no smoking. Hope this heps as it sounds like the pump is not getting poweror you have a blockage somewhere.


Posted on Aug 16, 2009

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My routine to check non-starting motors: (petrol/gas models)

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For Diesels with 'common rails' you can take same approach for fuel. No ignition testing possible. The diesel fuel pump still needs battery power. It will make some sound when IGN is on. If not, check ALL fuses and relays.

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A little more information is needed here. Is the bike turning over? Is the starter motor turning the engine over but not starting? Is it sputtering or coughing or backfiring?

Was it running and then just stopped? has it been sitting for a while and now won't start?

Engines need fuel, air, compression and spark to fire. Try the following. Try to start it and then:

1. pull the spark plugs. Are they wet? can you smell gas? If not you probably are not getting fuel to the engine for it to start. This bike probably has fuel injection. On many FI bikes, when you turn it on you can hear the fuel pump turn on. do you hear that? Look at the fuse box and see if you have a blown fuse for any critical functions such as fuel pump, ignition, etc.

How do the spark plugs look? Are they corroded and black and burned looking? Fouled spark plugs. Try replacing them. If they are whitish and look as if the metal as eroded away your engine is running lean and you need new plugs but also need to address running too lean or you will burn up your engine.

2. If spark plugs are wet you are getting gas. hold the base of the spark plug against metal such as the engine and press the starter. You should see a spark on the plug if it is properly grounded. If you don't see a spark then either your plugs are bad or you aren't getting spark due to a dead battery or a problem between the battery and the spark plug such as fuse box or an issue with chip that controls the engine.

3. How old is the battery? If you are having battery issues you probably can't run the starter but you might be having issues there as well.

4. If the bike is sputtering and backfiring it is probably a timing issue. I don't know your model of bike but I am pretty sure the timing is controlled by a chip. That may have issues or again, maybe a fuse that controls elements of the ignition system has blown. Are there any wires that have broken or have exposed metal that could be shorting? Any of the leads to the FI system come undone?

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Hi, Anonymous you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha FJ Owners Workshop Manual
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What's is the function the efi fuse

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Mitsubishi Diamante 2001, Car Will Not Start, Attempts to Crank, But no Fire. Blowing Engine Control Fuses repeatedly.

For the sake of completeness, here's the full no-start Troubleshooting Guide for the 2001 6 cylinder 3.5L MFI Mitsu Diamante, but the problem with your car is line item #6 - the ECC (Engine Control Computer) is shorted/dead. Without an ECC, the Diamante will (a) get no spark, since the ignition timing comes from the computer, and (b) get no fuel, since the fuel injectors are operated by the computer as well. The engine will turn over, since running the starter motor is a non-computer controlled matter of a correctly functioning ignition switch, a charged battery, and good wiring to a functional starter motor/solenoid, but will never start.
The clue pointing directly to the ECC failure is the blowing ECC fuses. These fuses are blowing to tell you that the ECC is shorted dead.
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Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.
2 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
3 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
5 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
6 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
7 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
8 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
9 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.
10 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
11 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.
12 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.
13 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
14 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.
15 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
16 Inspect Spark Plugs - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
17 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.

The fuel pump strainer is a sock-like strainer in the fuel tank on the input side of the fuel pump designed to protect the fuel pump by straining out any debris in the tank (similar to the way that the fuel filter protects the engine/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator).

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Fuel Pump(EFI)and lights non-functional, ignition o.k.

Check your relay for the fuel pump, make sure you are getting power to fuel pump connector (outside of tank). Check for fuel flow when pump is on, ( remove tank to fuel rail line from intake side)be carefull this results in a good fuel stream that may go everywhere. Oh yeah and no smoking. Hope this heps as it sounds like the pump is not getting poweror you have a blockage somewhere.


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