Right brake lever suddenly became loose and brake doesn't work
My wife has this scooter and she noticed the right brake lever was hard to squeeze but a couple of rides later it became loose and now the brake doesn't work.I looked at the little window with min written on it but I couldn't see the brake fluid level.
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Re: Right brake lever suddenly became loose and brake...
This suggests that the brake fluid is leaking out of the system somewhere. If you know what you are doing, you can find the leak (probably where the fluid is visible) and see whats causing it and then bleed the brakes again. Or take it to a mechanic, or where you bought it/ just had it serviced. This is not a normal thing and should be covered by a warranty (if still within the warranty period).
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It sounds like you have a bad brake problem. smoke from the frt brakes is bad! the following are the things to check and repair.
(1) front brake calipers may be frozen
(2)caliper (rubber lines may be collapsed)
(3) hard lines may have damage?
(4) master cylinder may not be releasing fluid
(5) front calipers may have bolts loose and\or missing
yes this is very common for dual front brakes. The thought behind this is that you will get a 60/40 split in your braking from back to front to maintain control in a braking situation.the hand brake gives you additional stopping power in a panic situations.happy riding
The disc brakes may seem like a new a completely different technology, but really they adjust basically the same as rim brakes. Both of your problems sound like the cables have too much slack in them. There is a mounting bolt for the cables at the brake, loosen that, pull the cable taught, tighten the bolt and squeeze the levers again. If that is better and the brakes don't drag, there you go.
If it still doesn't fix the brakes, then it is time to consider taking the bike into a bike shop and letting the mechanic have a look.
don't open more than one bleeder at a time. Oh, and pumping the brake handle doesn't do anything. It doesn't build up pressure like a car does. What you what you want to do is squeeze the brake lever, open the bleeder to are doing at the time (master cylinder first, right next to the brake lever) while you are holding the brake lever in, close the bleeder. When you let go of the brake lever, it will **** in fluid from the reservoir. Then squeeze the lever again, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let go again. Keep doing this until you don' see any more air bubbles come out and MAKE SURE you do not let the reservoir go empty. If it goes empty, you just put air in there and have to do it again.
Once you get down to the calipers, try to do it fairly quickly. The air bubbles move slow through the lines, but once the fluid stops moving, they will slowly start moving back up. If you let go of the lever with the bleeder open, it will **** fluid from where ever it can get it, so it will pull from the reservoir AND the hose you are trying to bleed, so it will just **** the air bubbles back higher in the line.
There a several solutions to this problem and all involve removing the seat and rear cover of the drivetrain. The brake and lever arm of the brake is located on the end of the black motor. Moving the brake lever up and down places the motor in freewheel or locks the motor/brake. There is a connecting rod from the brake lever to a ball that can be pulled up or down where it exits the back cover.
The connecting rod and brake lever may be bent making it difficult to work. Gently bend it back into alignment if you can. Be careful not to damage the brake and brake lever. The rod is easily reshaped. There is also a chance that the mechanism is binding and rusted or loose. You should be able to work the rod easily. See if you can move the lever right at the brake.
The more likely culprit is an overheated seized brake with the only solution replacing the brake. I have also seen the hexagon shaped nut which is secured by 2 set screws onto the motor shaft inside the brake housing come off. The set screws get loose and the nut gets lodged in the brake. Both of these solutions requires removing the brake with some allen wrenches after noting its position on the motor shaft. Hope this helps.
MKane I'm sure you checked the freewheel lever located under the right rear shroud to make sure it wasn't in freewheel. If its in drive mode are you hearing the brake click when you push in the throttle? Scooters are hard to troubleshoot because of all the different components used to make it go. It could be the throttle pot, the speed control pot, the cable going from the console to the rear of the scooter. Check the circuit breaker or fuse at the rear to make sure it hasn't popped. Check all your connectors at the rear to make sure none has come loose. Without being there this is the best I can do for you. You might contact your Provider where you got the scooter to see if they will check it for you Good Luck Hope this helps you
Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.
First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.
Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.
If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.
Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.
Vibrating front end under braking indicates a warped rotor or stuck piston. However, your bike is new enough this should not be an issue. Has it been dropped before? Are you noticing odd wear marks on the rotor? It should be more noticable at high speeds though, so that seems a little odd to me.
Can you get the front end up somehow and spin it freely, try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from.
Maybe check to see if something got stuck between the brake pads and the rotor? You'll need to remove the whole caliper to do it correctly, so make sure not to squeeze the lever if you do. Once you get it back on/reinstalled (just slips over the disk) then pump the lever a few times to restore pressure to the system, otherwise your brakes won't work the first time you try.