Right brake lever suddenly became loose and brake doesn't work
My wife has this scooter and she noticed the right brake lever was hard to squeeze but a couple of rides later it became loose and now the brake doesn't work.I looked at the little window with min written on it but I couldn't see the brake fluid level.
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Re: Right brake lever suddenly became loose and brake...
This suggests that the brake fluid is leaking out of the system somewhere. If you know what you are doing, you can find the leak (probably where the fluid is visible) and see whats causing it and then bleed the brakes again. Or take it to a mechanic, or where you bought it/ just had it serviced. This is not a normal thing and should be covered by a warranty (if still within the warranty period).
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yes this is very common for dual front brakes. The thought behind this is that you will get a 60/40 split in your braking from back to front to maintain control in a braking situation.the hand brake gives you additional stopping power in a panic situations.happy riding
Check to see if the clutch cable is broken. Watch the long clutch release lever under the oil tank as you squeeze the clutch lever. If it doesn't move when you squeeze the lever, your cable is broken. If it does, you've got problems with the release mechanism inside the right side of your transmission most likely.
don't open more than one bleeder at a time. Oh, and pumping the brake handle doesn't do anything. It doesn't build up pressure like a car does. What you what you want to do is squeeze the brake lever, open the bleeder to are doing at the time (master cylinder first, right next to the brake lever) while you are holding the brake lever in, close the bleeder. When you let go of the brake lever, it will **** in fluid from the reservoir. Then squeeze the lever again, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let go again. Keep doing this until you don' see any more air bubbles come out and MAKE SURE you do not let the reservoir go empty. If it goes empty, you just put air in there and have to do it again.
Once you get down to the calipers, try to do it fairly quickly. The air bubbles move slow through the lines, but once the fluid stops moving, they will slowly start moving back up. If you let go of the lever with the bleeder open, it will **** fluid from where ever it can get it, so it will pull from the reservoir AND the hose you are trying to bleed, so it will just **** the air bubbles back higher in the line.
To address your brake lever, could be air in the line low fluid level, or could be a bad plunger seal in your lever. Check fluid level first. If you recently changed the brake pads, bleed the brakes. If this does not help, then check out bikebandit.com for OEM parts. you should be able to buy the little rubber seal that attaches to the lever. Look at the schematics at bikebandit, it will be clear.
Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.
First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.
Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.
If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.
Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.
Vibrating front end under braking indicates a warped rotor or stuck piston. However, your bike is new enough this should not be an issue. Has it been dropped before? Are you noticing odd wear marks on the rotor? It should be more noticable at high speeds though, so that seems a little odd to me.
Can you get the front end up somehow and spin it freely, try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from.
Maybe check to see if something got stuck between the brake pads and the rotor? You'll need to remove the whole caliper to do it correctly, so make sure not to squeeze the lever if you do. Once you get it back on/reinstalled (just slips over the disk) then pump the lever a few times to restore pressure to the system, otherwise your brakes won't work the first time you try.