Do you have to split the cases on 1996 zx6r ninja 600cc f2 to change the shift forks

SOURCE: front forks oil capacity kawasaki en 1500 1996

My book says "Capacity 368.5-373.5 cc dry. This is for a 1996 Vulcan 1500 A10. Should be the same.

SOURCE: fork seals on 2003 Kawasaki Z1000 need changing - how ???

First, go buy amanual ,clymer or haynes shop manual from a dealer or sent a from J&P CYCLE or from DENNIS KIRK , then when you got to work on it you will have somethnig to go by, and not trying to guest if your doing it right. J&P-1 800-318-6847, DENNIS KIRK-1-800-969-7504, and tell them what you need.

Gino Cussen

• 217 Answers
• Posted on Jul 05, 2009

SOURCE: Fork oil capacity for a 2005 kawasaki vn1600 mean

Hi Des, Im am Irish too, howya doin? The oil you want is SAE 10W-20. and 445ml if you are changing the oil. It can be more accurately checked with the fork removed and fully compressed and the spring removed, the oil will be 120mm from the top ot the stanchion.
The manual will give you more info on this and any other future problems so here is a link to it. Good luck to ya, and please rate me if I've helped you. Thanks
[email protected]

VN1600 manual...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607829/Kawasaki-VN1600-A1A2-Vulcan-03-Service-Manual-ENG-by-MosuenoPW

SOURCE: I need to know the fork oil capacity for a Kawasaki GPZ750

the oil is SAE10W20 and you must put 325 ccm if you change the oil, and if you let it all drain over night 380 ccm (plus or minus 4ccm). After that, mesure the level in each cilinder of the fork. In the left one, you must have 120mm (plus or minus 2mm) of air left in the cilinder, and in the right one, 149 mm (plus or minus 2mm) .
Hope this helps. Try getting a repair manual. You will find all the answers there.
Best regards, Gabyshor.

SOURCE: 1984 Kawasaki GPz1100 (ZX1100-A2) Repair

The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...