A Few weeks back i had a rigid oil pipeline break on me whilst riding, although i stopped(in time) it stalled on me. I've since fixed that problem and,maybe as a coincidence, i've now got a fuel problem to the front cylinder. I thought the spark plug was to blame but it's firing up really good, but when i took the front right cover off to get to the plug i noticed a nut,metal arm and a spring in the engine well. I can only assume this is the old throttle system. I put it all back together and when starting the bike and turning this metal arm/bracket, the engine revs do adjust higher or lower. Am i on the right track as to thinking this is my problem and can you tell me what it is this metal arm is/was for and how i can adjust it to suit as my cables go straight to the carbs. It's a VS1400 intruder engine in a Hardtail chopper ( JAPANESE MODEL )
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated
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Re: Too much Fuel feeding to the Front Cylinder
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, I would venture that those are the return spring, spring lever and locknut for the butterfly. It would be so especially if the hole of the metal arm/spring lever is not a full circle but with one section straight. If the arm has a grooved edge on one side and a small hole with notch, then that would be where the accelerator cable would be hooked up.
Perhaps a service manual of comparable model could be of more help. Pls click here.
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when you cycle the key off and on the fuel shut off solenoid should click loud enough to hear it .Get your ear down close to the carb. There is normally a ground wire from the carb to the engine block because of all the plastic spacers they use between the carb and the cylinder head , check that also. Also if the fuel tank is below the seat it will have a fuel pump to lift the fuel up to the carb because it is lower and a fuel filter that you might want to consider to be the problem.If you want to remove the solenoid you can check it by touching the metal case of it to the neg of the battery and the wire to the positive of the battery and it should pull the plunger back ,if not slam it on the table a few times and try again because it is on the bottom side of the carb where all the water and slime lays it might be stuck. If it is for sure bad take your cutting pliers and cut off the round end of the plunger and put it back together. The idea of this solenoid is to stop the fuel from feeding the engine when you turn the key off or lift out of the seat because if the engine has carbon on the piston or head it will be hot enough to ignite the fuel and backfire and possible break the connecting rod. So if you run it with the plunger cut off let the engine idle for a bit and cool before you shut it down.
single cylinder four stroke engines and to much oil is a recipe for breaking things internally. Piston comes down tries to compress uncompressible oil and excessive pressure breaks one or more items. If it did run and just stopped without any dramatic bang or clattering of broken parts you may just need to completly drain it, refill to the correct level, replace the spark plug and check the air filter (may have puked up oil and clogged the filter....even laying the mower on the airfilter side will do this.
if its a two stroke mower and you put in to much 2 stroke oil. Drain the fuel, remove the spark plug, cover the lead (so you dont ignite fuel with a stray spark), pull the handle a few times to clear out the cylinder. Clean and replace plug, put in correct fuel oil mix, check airfilter is clear and it should live again.
Before I started "opening it up", I'd try to determine why the front cylinder is not running. You gave me absolutely nothing to work with here other than it has been sitting for a "few weeks". Specifically how long is a "few weeks". Even though the gasoline we buy these days is pretty poor quality, it will still last more than a few weeks unless that few weeks is more like a few months. Usually an engine does not break when it's not running but there are a few things that can go wrong. A tappet could collapse and then stick causing a loud noise but even with a collapsed tappet, I've seen them run. You could have a spark plug fouled and not firing. Since Harley uses a dual fire type ignition where both plugs fire every time the pistons come to top dead center, if one plug fires, then the other should be firing. That covers the ignition and compression, leaving only fuel. You failed to say if the engine was equipped with a carburetor or fuel injected. Since it's missing only on one cylinder I have the tendency to think that it may be fuel injected. If so, that's where I'd look to begin with. If it's a carbureted engine, look for a vacuum leak somewhere feeding the missing cylinder.
Hi, a two stroke engine relyes on 3 things to run, spark, fuel, compression, without 1 of the above the engine will not run, you say there was no smoke, this concerns me a two sroke engine makes smoke as it burns the oil used to lubricate the engine, was the bike down on power before it cut out? My thoughts are some damage has occured inside the cylinder, as a result your compression has been reduced, thus fuel canot be ignited as it passes the piston, instead of remaining inside the combustion chamber where the spark takes place, you should also check the condition of both the base and cylinder head gasket, remove cylinder head and check for contact marks where the piston may have made contact with it, contact of this part will cause damage to the piston, causing the rings to become seized into the piston thus reducing compesion
When the float in the carb sticks, it allows fuel to drain into the cylinder, that runs pass the rings into the crankcase. When the crankcase is full the pistons cannot go down, and the starter won't turn the engine. Drain all the oil gas mixture, and refill with proper oil. Replace float, needle and seat in the carb bowl. Throughly clean fuel passages, and bowl. If motor won't turn, remove spark plug and turn over engine a few times to remove gas oil mixture from the cylinder too.
I had this happen to my tractor several years ago. Turned out since the fuel is gravity feed, the fuel would syphon into the engine after a time. I took a zip strap and looped it around the fuel line loosely and attached it to higher part of the cowling, to put a slight HILL if you will in the line to break up the syphon effect. Worked great no further problems with that. Mine is a 1996 craftsman lawn tractor 42' deck 15.5 HP briggs. Been a work horse for years, but as of a week ago "issues" with tranaxle.
hope this works for you.
which gave me the following faul codes
P0353 Ign coil 3 malfunction
P1357 Ign coil 3 Short circuit to vbatt/over temp
I then started up the bike and the EFI light was flashing again. On checking the sensors page of Tuneboy it showed coils 12 & 4 with a dwell reading of 2.1-- whilst idleing but coil three would sit around 2.1 but would then drop right down to 0.4 for a few seconds before coming back up to 2.1ish.
So the questions are, what does short circuit to vbatt/over temp mean? I assume that the fault codes and EFI light flashing are connected with the fluctuation of the dwell reading on coil three? Does this mean that coil three is on its way out and that I should order a new one?
I should add that the bike is running fine. My main concern is that in two weeks time I'm taking the bike to France for 2 weeks / 2000+ miles and don't want to have coil problems whilst away.
On a different subject (although still electrical) can anyone tell me the colours of the tacho feed wire, I have studied the diagram from the Caporider site and in my handbook but still can't find them,I had two coil failures. Both of them exhibited extreme dwell variance.,,,